Chicks, Pullets, or Hens? Getting Started

[weshard]

The answer to my question may be in here but I have not seen it. I have 13 month old Black Austrolops, been feeding them medicated chick starter. The sack says they can be on that for 8 weeks. Tractor Supply said they are ready for non medicated Grower feed now. All very healthy and active. Any experience on this?

 

[aoxa]

The answer to my question may be in here but I have not seen it. I have 13 month old Black Austrolops, been feeding them medicated chick starter. The sack says they can be on that for 8 weeks. Tractor Supply said they are ready for non medicated Grower feed now. All very healthy and active. Any experience on this?

Why are they on it so late in life?

I do not recommend medicated feed. Solely because it causes thiamine deficiencies. There are other ways to prevent an overgrowth of cocci without filling them full of medication. Just my opinion.

I would put them on a grower if I were you.

 

[Ridgerunner]

The answer to my question may be in here but I have not seen it. I have 13 month old Black Austrolops, been feeding them medicated chick starter. The sack says they can be on that for 8 weeks. Tractor Supply said they are ready for non medicated Grower feed now. All very healthy and active. Any experience on this?

I'm assuming you mean 13 weeks, not 13 months.

People often get hung up on feed and they really don't need to. There is a basic rule to follow. Do not feed growing chicks excess calcium. There are plenty of studies that show excess calcium can damage the internal organs of growing chicks. That means don’t feed growing chicks Layer because Layer has extra calcium for the egg shells of laying hens. If they are not laying, they don't need the extra calcium. Also, do not sprinkle or mix oyster shell, crushed egg shells, things rich in calcium on their feed. If you need to feed laying hens extra calcium, offer it on the side.

That's it. That is the only rule. Anything else works. At 13 weeks old, I suggest looking at the label to see what the percent protein the feed has and feed them something between 15% protein and 20% protein. It's just personal preference but I tend to feed chicks that age in the lower percent protein range. I want to slow their body growth a bit to give their internal organs a chance to mature and their skeleton a better chance to develop before they grow too much. This tends to delay egg laying a bit, which is fine with me. But as I said, this is just personal preference. Plenty of people feed on the higher end of this range and are very happy with the results.

The medicated is a little more controversial. First, look on the bag. The “medicated” part is probably Amprolium. It’s possible it can be something else but it is almost certainly Amprolium in the feed you are most likely to buy. If it is not Amprolium or if it is something in addition to Amprolium, what I’m about to say obviously does not apply.

Purina will tell you that you can feed Amprolium-medicated feed to laying hens without a problem. Others will tell you that you need to withdraw the medication for a while before you use the eggs. I personally think there may be some confusion in the dosage in “medicated” feed used to help reduce the chances of them catching Coccidiosis and the higher dosage in medicines used to treat confirmed cases. But I like what an Avian Vet said. Since it is not well absorbed through the intestines it probably is not a problem, but a one week withdrawal is reasonable due to the conflicting recommendations.

I don’t feed medicated feed to start with. Not because I think it does any harm but because I don’t need it. My chicks do not come down with Coccidiosis. Personally I don’t think it hurts.

They will develop immunity to specific strains of Coccidiosis when they are exposed to it. If yours have been in contact with the ground for three weeks or so, they should have already developed the immunity they need so they really don’t need the medicated feed. In my opinion, you have done absolutely zero harm to them, but it is probably a good time to switch. Just make the switch when your current bag of feed runs out. No desperate rush. It’s not something to stress over.

 

[weshard]

That is thirteen chickens that are four weeks old.

 

[gabrielle1976]

Could the origanl poster please list everything they want from and in ther chickens , eggs meat pets all of the above , small , large , do you have a good amount to spend money wise how about time how much time do you have . HOw much work are you willing to do , what kind of set up for adult chickens do you want tractor coop , free range , fenced run??? Do you live someone where thats super hot , super cold , wet ,d ry .. Our best guesses on what might be good for you will be better if we know more of exactly what you want and need and what time money space and effort you have to put in. Sorry for being questiony

 

[Ridgerunner]

That is thirteen chickens that are four weeks old.

I sure mis-read that didn't I? Switch whenever that bag of feed runs out. It really does not matter if that is at 4 weeks, 8 weeks, or even a little older.

 

[weshard]

Ok thanks..

 

[Roxannemc]

Do you have a means to get rid of roosters? Either to eat the cockerels or give away for free via Craigslist? If you can get rid of any unwanted roosters then I'd definitely start with chicks. Also if you purchase from a hatchery your chances of males are very low if you specify only pullets.

Handling and becoming accustom to one another is fun and rewarding. Nothing like having hens that come when you call their names or become lap chickens. That really only happens if you raise them from chicks. One of the easiest pets to care for, the biggest thing is getting a coop and run ready for them for after the brooding period.

Sorry quoted the wrong person...
YOu may want to get some chicks that are sexlinked and get just pullets only The do sell them too.Not all are straightrun..
At 2 local farm stores here Family Center and Tractor Supply starting in late March(Mo) for about a month they carry usually some that are sexlinked like Barred Rocks which make .a nice good calm laying chicken barred black and white and then bright red combs or a few others pullets like Easter eggers with blue green eggs

You may have to ask first to make sure if they are straight run or pullets.Some had a sign on the tub here ,Also craigs and Ebay classifed both im sure will have ppl selling chicks
Some may know how to sex them or as with the sexlinks the color tells what they are.No guess work
GooD LUck!

 

[Roxannemc]

Apple
What i would tell someone starting out would be ....buy or make a coop FIRST.

They grow fast and get BIG pretty fast so you will be trying to play catchup as they go from tiny weeny things to feathered chicken guys with lots of poo in 5 weeks.!!
You want to put them out soon as they get all their feathers not like me...in my bathroom flying out of the brooder
Pooing on my floor! LOL

 

[Roxannemc]

Why are they on it so late in life?

I do not recommend medicated feed. Solely because it causes thiamine deficiencies. There are other ways to prevent an overgrowth of cocci without filling them full of medication. Just my opinion.

I would put them on a grower if I were you.

HAHA..I have mine on at 15 weeks! .Will go off the next week or so since they are close to laying age.

The layer ....calcuim will hurt their organs unles they are laying .... TRUE.
.Also many BYCers say cost is the same as non medicated... why change to non medicated until you need layer?But its different for everyone when to switch,.
If the thiamin thing is true i guess that is a valid reason but its the first i have heard of it

I also have read many ppl on here ask for help b/c of very sick chicks and often they arent on medicated feed.. so i guess it depends on where you live.
Me i dont take a chance and so far...knock on wood, havent had a sick or dead chick.
.