Cochin breeding, genetics, and showing

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lilcrow

Songster
10 Years
Apr 13, 2009
1,654
52
201
New Vienna, Ohio
Since there has been an interest expressed in a thread dedicated to the discussion of showing cochins and the breeding and genetics involved in improving our breed, it is our hope that this thread might be a forum to serve this purpose.
Pictures are welcome, but mostly to exemplify what you're breeding. We would appreciate it if you would limit your discussion to genetics, color, type, disposition, breeding and showing at APA and or ABA sanctioned shows. That is not to say that we want this to be a totally dry and lifeless forum, but just our desire to avoid slipping into pet stories which is all too easy to do with these wonderful birds.
If anyone that is interested in this topic has a better way of stating this or something to add, take away, or otherwise, PLEASE feel free to do so.
 
Thank You Nancy I really appreciate that you went through all the time and trouble to do this for me.
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I would like to submit these three cockerels for critical examination and comments. Anything goes. I believe they are all under 6 months old. I have a few questions/observations.

1. Is ckl #1 tail too high?(he is also in the background of ckl #2)
2. On ckl #2 2nd picture does he look like his legs are stilts (lol), too much air between him and the ground?
3. Is ckl #3 s back too straight? cushion too low?

I really don't know exactly how to word it. Just wonderring if people could make comments especially on the length of back, cushion, tail and how it is supposed to be and how you see these different cockerels in that focus? And anything else. Thank You

Head to tail - if you draw a straight line from the top of the tail to the head, it should bisect the eyes.

Chest - Draw a straight line up from the front of the breast to the head - the beak should sit just slightly back of the line.

Legs - The breast feathers should not drag on the ground, but you still want an abundance of fluff. You should be able to slip your hand under the bird, which would mean about an inch of clearance but no more.

They all look to me to have pretty decent heads - no crow heads, and nicely serrated and defined combs, but I can't see in the pics the width of the heads - they should be broad.

The tail and cushion on #1 look good to me - no "pinching in" before the cuchion is formed, and nice wide feathers.

Watch the wings - they should be short and carried close to the body - and held above the thigh fluff.
 
Hello, I would also stick to breeding the same variety until you come up with a line of birds that you like. As a someone new to cochins I think that you should know that cochins are sensitive to the heat.All of the standard cochins I have had are prone to heat stroke. Also if you want to show cochins the cochins that you decide to show need to go in a cage. If they are not caged they will ruin their feathers especially if they are white. Dirty cochins are also in my experience incredibly hard to get clean.

If you get bantam cochins it is also not a good idea to let them free range in your yard. Once I had this buff bantam cochin named Sally. One day Sally was enjoying her free time in my back yard like she had normally done every day I had owned her. I was right behind her when this gigantic red tailed hawk swooped down and broke her neck. After a moment of astonishment my mom and I decided to grab sally and burry her. Thats when the hawk grabbed her for the second time and I never saw her again.

Cochins will soon become your favorite breed of chicken because of there sweet, personable nature. They are still my favorite breed of chicken after keeping and showing chickens for eight years. I hope that you have fun with your new cochins.
 
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feathers pointing backwards on the hocks. it's pretty obvious looking when you see them, that they aren't correct...unless it's on a breed that calls for them--like the booted's. Google some images of 'vulture hock' or 'booted bantams' and you will get some good ideas of what to look for.
 
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The Columbian Pattern can be single mated with a fair amount of success, but is best dowuble mated. Have you considered bringing in an actual Birchen to set the color, and pattern as well actual Birchen genetically? It would take some time to get back to good Cochin Type but would eliminate all the color culls in teh process.

Do you mean using a OEGB to get the pattern? I don't think I could justify that. Did you look at the pics of my birds. I asked for critical feedback, what do you see that is wrong with them in your opinion?

I would never use OE with a Cochin, they are so far apart it would not make any sense what so ever... there are other bantams and breeds out there that are based on actual Birchen genetics, what you have is a cross that has a appearance of Birchen. The "Birchen" Stops there.
they will never, based on the genetic make-up, breed true and you will continue to see the Columbian and other things pop out of those birds.
As for telling you what is wrong with your cochins I will not, they are only available to me in a limited view of a photo. I try not to judge a bird by a photo as the photos do not tell teh story of teh bird and there is so much more than a photo can tell.
 
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Andalusion blue requires lacing regardless of breed, that is well documented within the color standard. lavendar / self blue is not laced.
You should note that Blue, lemon Blue, Silver Blue, Blue Partridge and several other "Blue" Varieties are based on andalusion blue. However there are well documented color standards that should be adhered to regardless of breed, bantam, or large fowl.
 
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I'd like to make certain that I know exactly what shafting is, it refers to the center shaft being a LIGHTER? color than the rest of the feather, or is it darker? I know that the feedback that I have received on my Birchen roo is that he has shafting. He's on page 4.

Nancy, in all the pics of shafting, and in my own birds, I don't think I've ever seen any where the shaft is darker. I would be interested to know what causes shafting, and what is the proper way to breed away from it. I'm assuming shafting is the result of lack of pigment in the shaft, and not a result of poor feather quality causing the shaft to be more visible?

Shafting is indeed where the shaft of the feather is lighter. In a bird like a Brown Red, showing light shafting it's a lack of that good dark pigment all the way up the shaft of the feather. To breed away from it, you have to select against it, which isn't always easy to do. Most Brown Reds I see are overmarked, meaning that the males and females carry the lacing way too far down their fronts usually all the way between their legs. One thing that you could do is cross to Blacks. You'll get much less pattern in the first generation and they should have much improved shaft color. You could then work that back into your Brown Reds. The Brown Red male and the Lemon Blues in the most recent photos all display shafting so some good examples of what to look for that you need to breed away from.
 

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