De-worming my chickens & roosters?

[MommaChicken3]

I have horses and worm them every 2 months religiously..its just routine. Ive inherited 6 hens and 2 roosters. They need to be dewormed as well? Ive heard yes and no? Im assuming yes!? I mean why wouldn't you I just didnt think about that. What is the safest? Is it still ok to eat eggs? How long to wait? What kinds of dewormer? Where to buy? Help!! I want to make sure my babies are as healthy as possible!!

 

[MommaChicken3]

P.s. I meant babies as in my children. Lol as in my laying hens. all grown

 

[Percheron chick]

No. I've never dewormed my chickens and many others don't as well. If they are unthrifty and looking poor, it might help but I wouldn't do it just because.

You can deworm with horse ivermectin or panacur. A pea size spot on a piece of bread is all they need.

The best time to deworm is when they are not laying as you do not want to eat any of those eggs.

 

[escape]

Two weeks ago one of my chickens developed a dirty butt. A few days later, another one looked dirty. I've got some barn swallows that hang out by the chickens and I was afraid that they had shared some "cooties" with my girls.

Ivermectin is supposed to kill lice as well as worms - and since I was going to be worming my horses anyway - I put about 2 cc of ivermectin in water, stirred it up real good, and let the chickens into the stable where they found the 'spiked' water and drank it right up.

That was 8 days ago. The chickens are doing great. Friday we will begin eating their eggs again. (But, hubby sure is complaining. I bring in the eggs that I collected to throw away and he whines that they are the best looking eggs the girls have ever laid.)

 

[Shalom Farm]

You can worm if you like. Might I suggest flicking some poop into a bag though and bringing it to the cheapest vet who will do a fecal exam. It should cost only a few bucks. I do this 1 time a year, during the time the chickens stop laying (so that if I do worm I withdraw the eggs for precaution but do not loose many since they aren't laying often). If it comes back clean, woo! No wormers!

If it doesn't, treat only for the worms present. You can use:

Wazine: Off label use for chickens. Depending on your water size, put the proper amount in drinking water. This is a treatment for roundworms only. This must be their only source of water for 24 hours. Wazine also recommends that you need to use it every 30 days to break the cycle of the roundworm. (I can admit though I do not use it monthly and have no problems with roundworm). Take up the water and change it after that day's use.

Ivermectin: Pour on is generally used by chicken owners, however a pea size amount of it in paste form is also able to be given. Ivermectin is a broad spectrum wormer. I don't recall, but I do believe certain brands may have added additional wormers in the tube. Available online under horse supplies. Check to make sure it is only Ivermectin. Pour on also available online. Ivermectin is a very safe product.

Valbazen: Very good broad spectrum wormer. Kills tapeworms! Use a syringe and squirt it down their throat or hide in food. 1/2 cc for LF and 1/4 for bantams.

Always use Wazine first if Roundworms are present. This is because if you need 2 wormers, there is going to be a lot of dead parasites in the intestinal tract. They can cause a blockage or protein excess. If using 2 products, use the Wazine, 10-12 days later use the 2nd product of your choice.

If you don't have worms there is no need to worm. If you do, treat only what is needed.

"Natural" Wormers: Everything is a chemical. Everything is made of chemicals, from your apple to your soda. Natural wormers use either some form of chemical present in things that are "toxic" or use chemicals that deter certain organisms. No published and peer reviewed data supports the claims of wormers that are comprised solely of foods. It is always information from advocates of the practice. At best, they help prevent some organisms from setting up shop. The only exception is ACV (Apple Cider Vinegar).

ACV must be unfiltered, raw, with the mother, and administered either in feed, water, or both. Fermented feeds often use ACV. It simple raises the PH of the chicken slightly. That change in PH makes it unappealing to certain organisms. I highly recommend ACV. It is, however, not a wormer.

DE (diatomaceous earth) - Is not a wormer. It is only effective externally and can help prevent some organisms from setting up shop. It is fossilized shell flour with microscopic edges that stab into armor and dehydrate/damage things you rather not see on a chicken. Externally, it helps prevent. It doesn't treat worms as the edges dull and erode when wet and within the gizzard. So it has zero bite inside. DE also must be food grade. It can cause respiratory distress as well if overused, used inappropriately, or in an area a chicken can really get into it. Nevertheless, I've provided links so you can draw your own conclusions. I use DE as a preventative measure only. Try to buy 100% DE and not a mix. Codex Food Grade is what it should read on the bag.

Also, clean your coop out often during this time. Make sure you strip it down. You might want to wash it as well. Don't forget roosting bars! Put a light bedding down and strip at least weekly until the worming routine is over. Then continue with your normal cleaning plan. Removing and disposing of manure keeps a majority of the eggs, larva, and full grown parasites away



Here are some other links that may be helpful : )

https://www.backyardchickens.com/t/...-now-molting-short-days-few-or-no-eggs-anyway

https://www.backyardchickens.com/t/818248/worming-with-de

 

[MommaChicken3]

All so much help!! Thanks!