Design recommendations for coop using 38" pallets

The sketchup below is what I'm thinking. Any obvious changes needed, e.g. supports to add, etc?
I highly recommend large roof overhangs with open soffits for winter ventilation.
Not quite sure how you could do that with the pallets,
but might be worth using typical lumber to attain it.
 
I have a few pictures, the insulation isn't in there right now it's still too warm. We live where it's really hot and humid during the spring/summer so we didn't put it in yet. This has been fully built for about 6 months. In the winter it rarely gets below 35 and when it does, it's only for about a day or two.

We still need to treat the wood with stain and protectant. We need to also put in the insulation.

You'll see on the right side of the door in one of the pallets that there is a hole, we are connecting the duck coop onto it so that hole will be 100% covered.

We are huge believers about recycling. Everything that we have in this coop or used to build it was going to be tossed out. Most of it is 100% brand new products.

It's 9 feet tall and 8 feet on all sides.

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@aart Thanks for the advice! I was going to use some 2x4s since they are so thin. I was also going to put in vents, but I'm guessing your suggestion would make more sense as I'm guessing it would shunt the rain water away from the structure.
 
Those tight top (less than 1 inch gaps) pallets don't really need insulation. Especially if it seldom gets below the 20s. If your dead set on it, I would use pine straw. It acts as thermal mass but allows ventilation. I would also make sure to have at least 1 foot overhang/eves to keep the walls drier. Since pallets aren't treated and have a tendency to rot within a year or two with ground contact, be sure to put the coop on blocks or up off the ground someway.
Looks like you're working on a good plan! :thumbsup
 
@aart Thanks for the advice! I was going to use some 2x4s since they are so thin. I was also going to put in vents, but I'm guessing your suggestion would make more sense as I'm guessing it would shunt the rain water away from the structure.
Roof overhangs not only shunt water away from siding and windows,
the open soffits afford weather protected ventilation, all year round-especially in winter.

I added overhangs to my big shed, before chickens.
Check out my coop page to see how I added HC to the open soffits:
https://www.backyardchickens.com/articles/aarts-coop-page.65912/

Especially if it seldom gets below the 20s.
This made me chuckle...OP is in MN where 20°F is T-shirt weather.:gig
 
I have a few pictures, the insulation isn't in there right now it's still too warm. We live where it's really hot and humid during the spring/summer so we didn't put it in yet. This has been fully built for about 6 months. In the winter it rarely gets below 35 and when it does, it's only for about a day or two.

We still need to treat the wood with stain and protectant. We need to also put in the insulation.

You'll see on the right side of the door in one of the pallets that there is a hole, we are connecting the duck coop onto it so that hole will be 100% covered.

We are huge believers about recycling. Everything that we have in this coop or used to build it was going to be tossed out. Most of it is 100% brand new products.

It's 9 feet tall and 8 feet on all sides.

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Beautiful!
 
@EggWalrus I wasn't planning on installing insulation, but I've read a number of places that drafts where the chickens roost/hang out can be a problem. That's why I was thinking I needed to block up those those cracks. The coop is somewhat sheltered (behind houses and next to a 20 ft wide copse of trees that extends a mile on the north side), but still gets a bit of a cold Minnesota breeze. Perhaps such breezes are only a non-issue in more temperate locations?

OP is in MN where 20°F is T-shirt weather.
Very true. :)

@aart Do you have a recommendation for soffit height? Having open soffits on both sides of the coop wouldn't be too much?

Nice setup btw, looks like you've done some good work!
 
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