Despite lots of ventilation…frostbite. Now what?

NorthwoodsChick

Fowl play will 🐝 encouraged 🐥🐔
Premium Feather Member
May 16, 2021
2,746
9,487
531
UP Michigan
My Coop
My Coop
I have 10 lrg breed chickens, cold hardy. No supplemental heat. The tips of my mature bielefelders and niederrhieners have frostbite. heres my set up: My 6x10 coop has a floating roof with eight 12x18 openings. I attached landscape tarp to four panels directly over the roost space they use bc there was a decent downdraft from gable ends.. breeze like. winds come from N-NW.
2 east facing Pop doors to attached run are open 24/7 Run is wrapped on North and 1/2 of south, open on east end and open 6inches from run roof overhang on north side. coop Windows are closed; when open the southern windows blow 1 foot over roost height. I use poop boards, cleaned daily. Pics below.. I don’t want to use heat but am being pressured by fam and it is tempting. I just want them healthy and I follow all the BYC experts advice on no heat (I agree). Any advice on my ventilation?

Is it OK to open one of the south windows where air blows 1 foot over roost height?

PIC 1 East facing run with human/pop door. The right lower area is covered with landscape cloth to protect their dirt bath area.
Pic 2 North facing run side. Winter wind and snow heavy. must remain covered.
Pic 3 coop/run interface, south side. Sml east facing coop window is open. South windows are adjustable. floating roof on coop.
Pic 4 coop roof showing ventilation. downdraft is evident over roosts along long wall (not pictured)

Interior coop pic is a few months old. I can update later today if written description is not enough. updates included extending roosts and poop boards along long wall, total roost space is 15 feet. birds prefer long wall roost and cluster there. I use pine chip flooring. no water in coop.
Open to all suggestions. thx, all!!
 

Attachments

  • A5BF108E-99AC-4799-92B9-14222947D3E3.jpeg
    A5BF108E-99AC-4799-92B9-14222947D3E3.jpeg
    1.1 MB · Views: 62
  • 2E37545C-5F66-4AB7-9017-05260BBA8D81.jpeg
    2E37545C-5F66-4AB7-9017-05260BBA8D81.jpeg
    998.8 KB · Views: 26
  • 06F32FA3-58BB-4B2E-B861-538B76A78D14.jpeg
    06F32FA3-58BB-4B2E-B861-538B76A78D14.jpeg
    811.5 KB · Views: 36
  • 37A40491-CCCF-4494-ACA4-0C479B4D7598.jpeg
    37A40491-CCCF-4494-ACA4-0C479B4D7598.jpeg
    700.1 KB · Views: 31
Have you measured the humidity inside and out of the coop?
If it is excessively humid inside, more ventilation may help.
But I've found FB to be almost unavoidable and not a serious threat to overall health.
Pics of the FB'n combs?

Here's some examples of the worst I've experienced over the years:
https://www.backyardchickens.com/articles/frostbite-in-sw-michigan.74597/
I didn't add pics of the numerous examples of mild grayish FB that they can get from noshing on snow banks.
 
You mention drafts and breezes. Energy driven air flow (wind) produces much colder-than-air temps. This of course is what we want to avoid as it can cause exposed tissue to freeze.

What you want is thermo-dynamic air flow instead. It's not that difficult. https://www.networx.com/article/thermodynamics-for-idiots You block wind driven air flow on your windward side and open vents at the top on the leeward side. Then, provide an opening, usually the pop hole entrance, to bring in cool outside air that will push air flow upward, carrying warmer moisture containing air above the chickens and move it out the leeward vents.

The topic of adding heat to a coop is a controversial one. Everyone has their own deeply held, almost bordering on the religious, beliefs about it. I am among those who have successfully added heat to my coops during below freezing periods. The one case of frostbite in the coop occurred when I didn't heat the coop on a single digit night. You can add heat if you also have the proper airflow as I described above.

I use an oil filled electric heater in one coop and a Cozy Coop flat panel heater in the smaller coop. Both help to keep the coops riding just above freezing. In heating a coop, you do not want to create an environment that humans would require for comfort. Chickens do not need it as their feathers and an adequate diet of enough calories provide all the protection against freezing temps that they need.
 
Have you measured the humidity inside and out of the coop?
If it is excessively humid inside, more ventilation may help.
But I've found FB to be almost unavoidable and not a serious threat to overall health.
Pics of the FB'n combs?

Here's some examples of the worst I've experienced over the years:
https://www.backyardchickens.com/articles/frostbite-in-sw-michigan.74597/
I didn't add pics of the numerous examples of mild grayish FB that they can get from noshing on snow banks.


We use this hygrometer to get peace of mind of the coop/run temperature and humidity condition, works really well.

One unit in the coop, one unit in the covered and mostly wrapped run for comparison. The run condition is close to the outdoor natural condition, so we can compare.

https://smile.amazon.com/ThermoPro-...ity+&+temprature+monitor.+tp357,aps,73&sr=8-1
 
Have you measured the humidity inside and out of the coop?
If it is excessively humid inside, more ventilation may help.
But I've found FB to be almost unavoidable and not a serious threat to overall health.
Pics of the FB'n combs?

Here's some examples of the worst I've experienced over the years:
https://www.backyardchickens.com/articles/frostbite-in-sw-michigan.74597/
I didn't add pics of the numerous examples of mild grayish FB that they can get from noshing on snow banks.
I have ordered a hygrometer. I didn’t take into account when they go out into the snow.
Pics are on hubby’s phone. I will have him transfer to me later, but my birds do not have anything near as severe as in uour article; reassuring and most helpful by the way. I accept my birds will have some issues, but being only Nov with temps in teens I am concerned about Jan-March when it stays below zero (- 10s to 20s ave).
I will simply remain vigilant in monitoring them and assess for signs of infection should (or when) FB occurs.
Much appreciated @aart !!
 
We use this hygrometer to get peace of mind of the coop/run temperature and humidity condition, works really well.

One unit in the coop, one unit in the covered and mostly wrapped run for comparison. The run condition is close to the outdoor natural condition, so we can compare.

https://smile.amazon.com/ThermoPro-Bluetooth-Hygrometer-Thermometer-Greenhouse/dp/B08LKCLFR6/ref=sr_1_1?crid=1U0DL10MAEG6W&keywords
We use this hygrometer to get peace of mind of the coop/run temperature and humidity condition, works really well.

One unit in the coop, one unit in the covered and mostly wrapped run for comparison. The run condition is close to the outdoor natural condition, so we can compare.

https://smile.amazon.com/ThermoPro-Bluetooth-Hygrometer-Thermometer-Greenhouse/dp/B08LKCLFR6/ref=sr_1_1?crid=1U0DL10MAEG6W&keywords=thermopro+indoor/outdoor+humidity+&+temperature+monitor.+tp357&qid=1668872464&sprefix=thermpro+indoor/outdoor+humidity+&+temprature+monitor.+tp357,aps,73&sr=8-1

=thermopro+indoor/outdoor+humidity+&+temperature+monitor.+tp357&qid=1668872464&sprefix=thermpro+indoor/outdoor+humidity+&+temprature+monitor.+tp357,aps,73&sr=8-1
Thank you. Good idea to place one in coop and run!! These seem better than what I ordered. The product specs show the unit’s size comparable to a large chicken egg.. so it’s meant to be.
 
I just replied in another post that the only time one of mine got frostbite was after I put in a heat lamp.
 
You mention drafts and breezes. Energy driven air flow (wind) produces much colder-than-air temps. This of course is what we want to avoid as it can cause exposed tissue to freeze.

What you want is thermo-dynamic air flow instead. It's not that difficult. https://www.networx.com/article/thermodynamics-for-idiots You block wind driven air flow on your windward side and open vents at the top on the leeward side. Then, provide an opening, usually the pop hole entrance, to bring in cool outside air that will push air flow upward, carrying warmer moisture containing air above the chickens and move it out the leeward vents.

The topic of adding heat to a coop is a controversial one. Everyone has their own deeply held, almost bordering on the religious, beliefs about it. I am among those who have successfully added heat to my coops during below freezing periods. The one case of frostbite in the coop occurred when I didn't heat the coop on a single digit night. You can add heat if you also have the proper airflow as I described above.

I use an oil filled electric heater in one coop and a Cozy Coop flat panel heater in the smaller coop. Both help to keep the coops riding just above freezing. In heating a coop, you do not want to create an environment that humans would require for comfort. Chickens do not need it as their feathers and an adequate diet of enough calories provide all the protection against freezing temps that they need.
I looked st my set up and adjusted some south and east facing ventilation Now just need to watch and wait.
I have a small radiant heater with auto shutoff that I run in my camp sauna. I may look to use that when it gets super cold.
 

New posts New threads Active threads

Back
Top Bottom