Farming and Homesteading Heritage Poultry

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I was tempted to bid on those eggs. I can afford them and if other folks think they are that special, why not? In the end, I decided that I would be just as happy for now with some "less special" chickens. I try to be honest with myself and while I am 100% going to start back with chickens this spring, I'm also way less than 100% certain I will still have chickens in one or two or three years.

I hope whoever gets the chicks will do right by them : thumbs up : to you.

How in the world did the old time homesteaders ever find a decent chicken without the interwebs? ; )
 
How in the world did the old time homesteaders ever find a decent chicken without the interwebs? ; )

Everybody kept chickens so it wasn't a big deal. You could go to your neighbor and swap eggs, or chicks, etc. With the majority of folks moving to the city less people kept fowl, so the pool of good birds shrunk. Then the rise of the industrial farms to feed LOTS of people came about and new breeds were created to meet the growing demand. The CX and the production layers came about further driving out the other breeds. So now there are very few breeders working with these birds anymore so its so that much harder to find quality stock. If the demand continues to go up for heritage fowl, we should see the availablity of quality stock go up as well. Time will tell.

Alright here's another question....how much does efficiency fall into your selection process of birds or even the breed you choose to work with factor into your decisions? I'm not saying all the breeds should be 6lbs at 6 weeks by any means but does efficiency cross your mind at all making pairings or looking at future breeding stock? For example how fast your birds feather in so they are out of the brooder sooner and now able to get out and free range earlier.

Just wondering aloud here...your thoughts?​
 
Alright here's another question....how much does efficiency fall into your selection process of birds or even the breed you choose to work with factor into your decisions? I'm not saying all the breeds should be 6lbs at 6 weeks by any means but does efficiency cross your mind at all making pairings or looking at future breeding stock? For example how fast your birds feather in so they are out of the brooder sooner and now able to get out and free range earlier.

In my case, I chose a heritage breed because I want long term self sufficiency. Although I am not looking to set any laying or meat records, I do need a certain level of production to cover cost. If my chickens can't pay their way, I may as well buy eggs and meat. Production is a selection criteria for me, but so is breed characteristics. I believe the breed I chose has done well due to it's genetics. I want to continue their prowess therefore I breed for type also.​
 
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Everybody kept chickens so it wasn't a big deal. You could go to your neighbor and swap eggs, or chicks, etc. With the majority of folks moving to the city less people kept fowl, so the pool of good birds shrunk. Then the rise of the industrial farms to feed LOTS of people came about and new breeds were created to meet the growing demand. The CX and the production layers came about further driving out the other breeds. So now there are very few breeders working with these birds anymore so its so that much harder to find quality stock. If the demand continues to go up for heritage fowl, we should see the availablity of quality stock go up as well. Time will tell.

Alright here's another question....how much does efficiency fall into your selection process of birds or even the breed you choose to work with factor into your decisions? I'm not saying all the breeds should be 6lbs at 6 weeks by any means but does efficiency cross your mind at all making pairings or looking at future breeding stock? For example how fast your birds feather in so they are out of the brooder sooner and now able to get out and free range earlier.

Just wondering aloud here...your thoughts?

Actually this is not quite historically accurate.

If you study the records here's what you will find:

100 plus years ago:
Most flocks were either from a Hatchery, mixed or Games. The real breeders of quality chickens were as few and far between as they are today. Yes, people could just swap eggs or chicks with their neighbors; again, because most were mixed flocks and not that great at egg or meat production.

New breeds were, by and large, created or imported by fanciers not 'industrial folk.' There were a few breeds created at experimental stations and most of these did not last.

Egg laying contest were conducted all across the country to find the best egg layers. These brids were again mostly owned by fanciers/farmers. The contest were often held in conjunction with Shows. These egg-laying champs became the basis for the 'industrial folk.'

Your story sounds both believable and really neat: it's just not historically accurate.
 
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In my case, I chose a heritage breed because I want long term self sufficiency. Although I am not looking to set any laying or meat records, I do need a certain level of production to cover cost. If my chickens can't pay their way, I may as well buy eggs and meat. Production is a selection criteria for me, but so is breed characteristics. I believe the breed I chose has done well due to it's genetics. I want to continue their prowess therefore I breed for type also.

Ditto.

Everyones needs are different I think we can all agree on that one. For me it is not so much about selling as it is about living. Sure it is nice to sell eggs( now alot harder to do since new law past) but chickens ranging help us more than that now. The eat bugs and grubs and fretilze that land. They are natural composters.

Now if I want a chicken that is too be looking like the breed I bought down the road then I have to bred to that ideal. Otherwise I will loose that look real fast. So here the SOP helps me to select those that will keep the body and style and look of the breed I bought. Since chickens loose size if breeding is not kept up I see no conflict here with breeding with SOP. No one said I had to show to breed my chickens for me or to even perserve a breed. But if I want that good size egg and carcase I better start breeding up to it and keep doing that or else I will loose it. This is where the SOP helps alot. For it is just not body size but other things that help you pick the birds to get there.

For those that have never seen or read the SOP you really need to get one. It is way more than just about breed history and body type. If you have no background in breeding animals to a purpose ie work, show, production then you need the SOP for sure. For those of you that have more than one breed it is a must for sure to own one. Those that argue about not having it and that they do not need it, will not be staying in chickens long. Reason after a few breedings their way they will not be happy and drop the whole thing. Chickens loose size fast one breeding they can go either up in size or down. If you just let the flock breed without gudiance then you will see a degrease in size and body type. If you do not know what to pick in a chicken to increase size then you will loose size. Just picking the largest will not keep you size up. I might get you taller but not wider. Which is what you want for a good meat carcase. One needs to read about how their breed was made and how it should look and what pairings work to make that happen. This is all in the SOP.
 
Your story sounds both believable and really neat: it's just not historically accurate.

No claim here to being a historian, just going on what I had read and learned in college regarding the industrialization of America. Ive been wrong before just ask my wife.
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No claim here to being a historian, just going on what I had read and learned in college regarding the industrialization of America. Ive been wrong before just ask my wife.
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Boy, do I know that feeling.
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I agree. I have a hard time paying that much for eggs as well. I could do it, but the hatchability is what gets me - it seems like in the end you could be throwing good money after a dozen empty eggs after shipping takes its toll. I guess it would depend on the birds.

That was my auction. I hope you noted that I started that auction at $20. With the high amount my auction went for, I could not just send out 10 eggs. I would have been sick at heart to hear of a bad hatch after spending that much money. I offered to hatch them, and am doing that. The auction winner will be getting well over 10 eggs worth of chicks, I can assure you.

I want these heritage birds out to as many people that want them, too. I am NOT in this for money. I want to preserve this strain. It is also in my best interest to get them out there too, so that someday I can get get back "new blood," from the same strain, if needed.

I purchased the eggs in both auctions mentioned. I intended to win the auctions. The bidder drives the price on an auction. Not the seller. In my case, I had to decide what they were worth to me. I have been working toward a good flock of New Hampshires for four years. I could not let the oppurtunity be missed. How much feed, and especially labor would one good cock have saved me? I do not know, but when a couple dozen birds can eat near a 100 lbs of feed a week . . . . . I took a chance. After the seller was generous enough to offer hatching them for me it may prove to be especially worth it. It is all about what you want and what you are trying to do. Some breeds are very hard to find good examples of.
I have Found Kathy to be very generous and helpful. I am pleased with the entire experience. I am especially glad to have met her. She has been helpful on things that do not even pertain to the auction. I do not believe anyone implied anything negative, but I wanted to take the oppurtunity to comment publicly my experience dealing with Kathy.
 
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In my case, I chose a heritage breed because I want long term self sufficiency. Although I am not looking to set any laying or meat records, I do need a certain level of production to cover cost. If my chickens can't pay their way, I may as well buy eggs and meat. Production is a selection criteria for me, but so is breed characteristics. I believe the breed I chose has done well due to it's genetics. I want to continue their prowess therefore I breed for type also.

Ditto.

Everyones needs are different I think we can all agree on that one. For me it is not so much about selling as it is about living. Sure it is nice to sell eggs( now alot harder to do since new law past) but chickens ranging help us more than that now. The eat bugs and grubs and fretilze that land. They are natural composters.

Now if I want a chicken that is too be looking like the breed I bought down the road then I have to bred to that ideal. Otherwise I will loose that look real fast. So here the SOP helps me to select those that will keep the body and style and look of the breed I bought. Since chickens loose size if breeding is not kept up I see no conflict here with breeding with SOP. No one said I had to show to breed my chickens for me or to even perserve a breed. But if I want that good size egg and carcase I better start breeding up to it and keep doing that or else I will loose it. This is where the SOP helps alot. For it is just not body size but other things that help you pick the birds to get there.

For those that have never seen or read the SOP you really need to get one. It is way more than just about breed history and body type. If you have no background in breeding animals to a purpose ie work, show, production then you need the SOP for sure. For those of you that have more than one breed it is a must for sure to own one. Those that argue about not having it and that they do not need it, will not be staying in chickens long. Reason after a few breedings their way they will not be happy and drop the whole thing. Chickens loose size fast one breeding they can go either up in size or down. If you just let the flock breed without gudiance then you will see a degrease in size and body type. If you do not know what to pick in a chicken to increase size then you will loose size. Just picking the largest will not keep you size up. I might get you taller but not wider. Which is what you want for a good meat carcase. One needs to read about how their breed was made and how it should look and what pairings work to make that happen. This is all in the SOP.

Agreed. There are certain characteristics a breed is known for that you cannot see that needs to be retained as well. For examples New hampshires are noted for being quick to feather out and fast maturing. Mine are and I hope to retain it. I am not implying pushing for extremes, but be faithful to the intent of the original breeders. What would a Dorking be if the hens did not go broody and were not good mothers?
 

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