Frame help please!

[Jeffross1968]

So, with all the help received on my previous post, I’ve decided to:
1) build instead of repurpose a shed
2) utilize a dirt floor
3) use blackjack 57 on buried corner posts a up a foot inside and outside all the walls to protect wood from the wet ground.

So I’ll attach my horrible little sketches. I’m planning on an 8x8 foot print, 4x4 corner posts, sloped roof from front to back. Considering using a/c vents at top of each wall allowing full ventilation in summer, with ability to shut down the ones getting cold wind on winter nights. Front wall with door and window I can prop open.

What I could really use some help with, is the framing. I built a decent 4x8 coop off the ground at our last house that worked for six years strong. But this is a bigger project and I want proper framing.

The entirety of my knowledge is that studs should be 16” apart, lol. Money is tight, so I’m concerned with learning costly lessons during the build. So if we have any carpentry professionals that might be able to give me a quick framing layout, I would be forever thankful for the help!!!

 

[Jeffross1968]

I should add that we are not building a run, as our chickens free range all day, so the coop will only be for night.

 

[DobieLover]

So, with all the help received on my previous post, I’ve decided to:
1) build instead of repurpose a shed
2) utilize a dirt floor
3) use blackjack 57 on buried corner posts a up a foot inside and outside all the walls to protect wood from the wet ground.

So I’ll attach my horrible little sketches. I’m planning on an 8x8 foot print, 4x4 corner posts, sloped roof from front to back. Considering using a/c vents at top of each wall allowing full ventilation in summer, with ability to shut down the ones getting cold wind on winter nights. Front wall with door and window I can prop open.

What I could really use some help with, is the framing. I built a decent 4x8 coop off the ground at our last house that worked for six years strong. But this is a bigger project and I want proper framing.

The entirety of my knowledge is that studs should be 16” apart, lol. Money is tight, so I’m concerned with learning costly lessons during the build. So if we have any carpentry professionals that might be able to give me a quick framing layout, I would be forever thankful for the help!!!

View attachment 1848637

View attachment 1848626
View attachment 1848627

What type of roofing are you planning on? If you are going to use shingles, you need to maintain a 12/2 pitch so that back wall will need to be a maximum height of 6'8". I'd put it at 6'6" myself to make sure it drains well and give you decent head space.
Use 24" OC framing instead of 16" OC. You'll save a little on the lumber cost there.
Here is a little sketch on basic framing from my new coop article I still have in draft:

Ignore the tight spacing on the studs. Just use 24" OC.
You can also put your rafters at 24" OC positioned over the wall studs. I would use a minimum of 1' overhang front and back. I did 2' and love it but that is a personal decision.
You can also install fly rafters on the sides for over hang there as well.
For your span and potential snow load, I would use 2x6 lumber for the rafters and use rafter ties to protect from uplift forces.
You can then use 1/2" HC to close in the spaces between the rafters to create lots of overhead venting. Like this:

Are you sure you want to bury your posts? The wood will eventually rot.
If you are using a dirt floor, I would still keep the bottom framing lumber off the ground about 1" and use ground contact rated PT 2x8s hung on hidden flange joist hangers. When you attach your predator apron, that will secure that 1" space. For your application, I personally would use 1/2" galvanized HC backed up with coated 2x4 wire for the apron and extend it 2 ft out, pin it down on the outer edge and either cover it with something or let the grass grow up through it to hide it.

 

[Cryss]

Have you considered venting under the eaves? My son in law is building me a coop. Here's how he's working venting. It will be covered with 1/2 inch hardware cloth.
This is the start.


From inside.


Vents under the overhang.


Oh, and the bottom 4 feet is made with free pallets. I dont know if it will help or not but here's the link to my thread that I'm posting its progress as we go.
https://www.backyardchickens.com/th...in-coop-want-to-follow.1298845/#post-21144044
Good luck! Looking forward to seeing yours!

 

[Jeffross1968]

Are there brackets I should use to connect the front and back wall to the rafters?

 

[Jeffross1968]

Use all treated lumber for rafters and studs?

 

[Cryss]

Son in law says most of the studs were treated, the rafters were not.
I know he cut bits out to make them fit. Maybe you can see if you enlarge this? Cut on an angle.

 

[DobieLover]

Are there brackets I should use to connect the front and back wall to the rafters?

Birds mouth the rafters, toe nail them to the top plate then attach rafter ties.
These are shots from my run framing but it is a single slope roof like your design calls for.

Use all treated lumber for rafters and studs?

If you are going to cover the end rafters with fascia, you can use all kiln dried (KD) lumber.
I used deck boards for fascia, let them dry for about 1.5 months then painted them.

The studs will sit up on the PT 2x8s. The studs can be KD. To make the front and back walls strong enough to bear the weight of the roof, I would use double PT 2x8s in double hidden flanges for the bottom framing. The studs would be toe nailed onto those beams. They would be what carries the load.
The side walls carry very little load and you could use a single PT 2x8.

 

[TexasWineGuy]

What type of roofing are you planning on? If you are going to use shingles, you need to maintain a 12/2 pitch so that back wall will need to be a maximum height of 6'8". I'd put it at 6'6" myself to make sure it drains well and give you decent head space.
Use 24" OC framing instead of 16" OC. You'll save a little on the lumber cost there.
Here is a little sketch on basic framing from my new coop article I still have in draft:
View attachment 1848640
Ignore the tight spacing on the studs. Just use 24" OC.
You can also put your rafters at 24" OC positioned over the wall studs. I would use a minimum of 1' overhang front and back. I did 2' and love it but that is a personal decision.
You can also install fly rafters on the sides for over hang there as well.
For your span and potential snow load, I would use 2x6 lumber for the rafters and use rafter ties to protect from uplift forces.
You can then use 1/2" HC to close in the spaces between the rafters to create lots of overhead venting. Like this:
View attachment 1848647 View attachment 1848649

Are you sure you want to bury your posts? The wood will eventually rot.
If you are using a dirt floor, I would still keep the bottom framing lumber off the ground about 1" and use ground contact rated PT 2x8s hung on hidden flange joist hangers. When you attach your predator apron, that will secure that 1" space. For your application, I personally would use 1/2" galvanized HC backed up with coated 2x4 wire for the apron and extend it 2 ft out, pin it down on the outer edge and either cover it with something or let the grass grow up through it to hide it.

He can cover the bottom of the posts with Black Jack #57 to make them virtually waterproof.

TWG

 

[DobieLover]

He can cover the bottom of the posts with Black Jack #57 to make them virtually waterproof.

TWG

I've replaced far too many buried PT posts to think they will last as long as I want my construction to last. But that is up to him. I place PT posts on 1" offset post bases anchored to 1/2" x 9" galvanized J-bolts embedded in concrete piers set to just below the frost depth.