Confederate Money Farm has some good info and I used his site when I built my 1st one. I still think you need 2 lights to maintain an even temp and cover all the holes except 1 at the bottom and 1 at the top. That picture was when I was setting my hatcher up and now the T-stat is closer, it was just for a reference of how I mounted the T-stat.For you your setup works fine.Your box is huge compared to mine.Im using a small foam cooler. If i move my thermostat away that far my box goes to like 120 plus degrees.I have the thermostat on the lowest setting.
I do learn from others.If i build a large setup i would use a wafer thermostat,right now mine is a hobby thing.Mabe its the amount of holes,i saw a video where some guy had no thermostat! he just had a temperature gauge and kept adding hole in his cooler until the right temperature showed up.I wouldnt do that but it does raise questions about air flow.I have 12 holes in my cooler about the size of the end of my pinkie.I think i have it set up to pull warm air past the eggs on the way out.I have a fan on also.I tried the extra light idea because an back up would be a good idea.
I read anouther site where the guy figured for him one finger width away was the answer.The same site the guy used an hair dryer to heat his unit!Thats the confererate money farm site,good info there.
I don't think that just drilling holes will work very good, it might if you have a perfect temperature controlled room but if the outside air changes a few degrees it will effect the temps inside.
Also try to let the bator come up to temp before making big adjustments to the T-stat, mine is set to around 125 degrees.