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Trish Dusil Flock Dispersal List
319 224 3646
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Here we go, folks! Help yourselves to these birds. They are from NPIP certified flocks. Before contacting me, I have some things for you to consider. I will not sell just the hens/pullets and get stuck with roosters. Tire kickers, please don't waste my time, I don't have much of it at the moment. I'm getting inundated with requests for people to hold my stock. If I haven't done business with you before, I probably won't hold them without a non refundable deposit sent via paypal. I'm taking appointments starting 2/23/12.

If you see a price for all birds, I am not splitting them up. It's all or none. Cash only or Paypal instant payments accepted. No e-checks, checks or credit cards accepted. Payment in full is expected upon pick up.

Ancona Ducks M-2 F-3 $40
Pekin Ducks M-3 F-2 $35
IA Blue flock M-4 F-7 $75 Sale pending to Connie Hurley
Silver Laced Wyandotte 4 pair $20 per pair
Golden Laced Polish M-2 F 7 $80
White Plymouth Rock 4 pair $25 per pair
Black Copper Marans M 7 F 19 $300 for entire flock or $15 hens $5 roos.
Buff Orpingtons 4 pair $25 per pair 1 trio $40
Started Plt $8 (3) Ckrl (5)$2 Hatched first week in January
Black/Blue Plymouth Rock M-1 F-9 plus one outcross project cockerel $100
Mille Fleur Dutch trio $35 sold to Lisa Jensen
Bantam RIR trio $40
Cuckoo Marans M-3 F 8 $100
Bantam Silver Laced Cochin pullet $10
African Geese M-4 ($15) F-1 ($25)
Bantam Marans hens Make offer, the 4 smallest birds are sold. Lowballers need not apply.


Black Copper Marans started cockerels $3 each, hatched first week in January
Ameraucana chicks in black/blue started $5 each. 2-3 weeks old.
Iowa Blue chicks hatched 2/21 $2 each.
Mille Fleur Dutch chicks hatched 2/21 $4 each


Breeds I am still raising and showing.
Welsummer
Black Tailed Buff Marans
Ameraucana
Heritage SC and RC RIR
Buckeye
Buff Minorca
 
And does this do the inside too? As a wormer?

Yep, it absorbs through the skin. I use put 1/2 cc on the skin where the neck meets the back and rub it in with a gloved finger. I have really only needed to use it on the broodys - it makes them much more comfortable.
 
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Can someone explain what is involved in NPI certification for your flock? I was just told that someone just had to plumera test (sp) my flock, send in the paperwork and then I get my number, is that correct? I know a tester who could do it. Is that really all there is to it?
 
You have to send in the results to the Iowa Poultry Assn., as I told you long ago. But yes, it is that simple.
If you call the Iowa Poultry Assn., and talk with the NPIP coordinator, they can simply explain it. Again, it is that simple.
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ETA: It costs 10 or 15.00 per year to be certified.
 
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You have to send in the results to the Iowa Poultry Assn., as I told you long ago. But yes, it is that simple.
If you call the Iowa Poultry Assn., and talk with the NPIP coordinator, they can simply explain it. Again, it is that simple.
smile.png


ETA: It costs 10 or 15.00 per year to be certified.




Can someone explain what is involved in NPI certification for your flock? I was just told that someone just had to plumera test (sp) my flock, send in the paperwork and then I get my number, is that correct? I know a tester who could do it. Is that really all there is to it?
Yes. The tester tests your birds. You fill out the forms. Send in a copy of your testing papers. Enclose $15. Wait 2 months. It runs from July to end of June. They have been giving us a grace period into Aug so they have time to get all paperwork done.
Being NPIP also means we follow the rules. We can lose our NPIP certification if we bring home birds that are not from an NPIP flock or tested. When getting birds at swaps where the birds were tested it is wise to get copy of the test for your records or which NPIP flock they came from. Better safe than sorry.
 
How many of you are NPIP? I am wondering if it is necessary. The only reason this came up is that I am going to maybe hatching out some layer chicks to sell at the Winterset sale coming up in April. Not show birds, just backyard layers. Some will be purebreds, my Delwares from hatchery birds, but the others will be RIR rooster x my mix of good layer breeds because I can't get them separated yet for about a month at least. I have pens bought to separate them but need to build some more coops. The guy who I talked to on the phone said that a mix of good layer breeds would sell. So for me it is just a way to make a little money. The way I have it timed they will only be about a few days to a week old at the time of the sale.
 
Yes. The tester tests your birds. You fill out the forms. Send in a copy of your testing papers. Enclose $15. Wait 2 months. It runs from July to end of June. They have been giving us a grace period into Aug so they have time to get all paperwork done.
Being NPIP also means we follow the rules. We can lose our NPIP certification if we bring home birds that are not from an NPIP flock or tested. When getting birds at swaps where the birds were tested it is wise to get copy of the test for your records or which NPIP flock they came from. Better safe than sorry.

If all of my birds as chicks came from hatcheries that are NPIP certified, does that mean my birds are ok then? As you can tell this is all new to me. I have never given this whole thing a thought until now. The only birds I have that are not from NPIP hatcheries are my Muscovy ducks, I have 5 of them.
 

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