Keep the Coop Warm without Electricity

[Bonkerelli]

Hello all! Figured that I would share some tricks I have learned over the years keeping the coop warm in winter without electricity. First, with the methods I will talk about, it won't get the coop up to "room" temp but least be 5-15 degrees F. warmer than what it is outside. To start off, I live in a cold climate when the winters can get into -20F! So anyone who lives in a cold climate.. least consider these tricks.

Breeds/Number of birds: Yes, if you live in a cold climate usually you want a hardier breed. YET, I have Seramas among my flock and they do remarkably well in the cold. More the merrier too! Chickens snuggle and fluff up their feathers to trap in heat. Their circulatory system to regulate body heat in located in their feet. As long as they have a dry place and cover their feet.. they will do alright.

Coop: You want the appropriate size coop for the number you have for your flock. I found a squatter coop retains more heat. Insulating the coop helps a lot. Though do make sure whatever insulation you use the chickens cannot get to. Make sure there is no drafts but a quick insulation/draft blocker is heavy blankets. Having fabric wrapped around the perches will help keep the chicken's feet warm too.

Bedding: Deep bed method. Instead of cleaning out the coop during winter.. keep adding bedding material on top of any soiled area. The theory is that the poop starts slowly composting underneath to create heat. Yet it also builds up insulation on the floor.

Feed/Water: Lots of protein and corn. Corn can be by cracked, cornbread (unsweetened), or corn meal. All these increase their body heat. Have lukewarm water for them. Besides an electric heat waterer.. old fashion way is to go out and change the water out.

Little extra: Mainly do this at night or when it is REALLY cold during the day. Use with caution though. In a safe spot in the coop you can either have pots w/lids, jars w/ lids and thin socks around them with hot water. It creates warm air and if the chickens are really, really cold they can snuggle up against them. Use this as a last resort because you do not want it to spill in the coop or get the chickens damp.

Hope some of these tips work for you as well as it did for me!

 

[mowin]

No insulation in my coops at all. -15/20 happens several times a winter. Proper ventilation and no drafts have worked great for my gals. In the morning when I opened up the coop, they are more than eager to start there day outside as long as it's not too windy.
Don't like squatty coops. I want to stand upright, and a taller coop allows ventilation far above the roosts.

 

[Egghead_Jr]

I turn chicks out of the brooder at 4 weeks in spring and 3 weeks late spring. Plenty feathered by then. Of course half the Easters we still have snow on the ground so first hatched chicks are turned out end of April and second round chicks are out mid May. @BLT79 I'm well North of Mass. temps where they can even leave sugar water in bee hives over winter you'll be fine turning 3 week chicks outside in early or mid April. Provided you have at least three to keep warm together nights.

Here's my average temps-

 

[Egghead_Jr]

If they don't have feathers you need to supply a heat source for them for when they get cold. People brood in the coops using heating plate or a well secured brooding lamp with low watt light. They have the white 125watt heat lamps which seem to be expensive and burn out when turning on for next year. I use 75 or 100 watt incandescent bulb in my metal hood heat lamp.

If using the brooding lamp double secure it so it never falls. The brooding heat plates don't seem to be fire hazards.

 

[aart]

ventilation is important but can let in a draft during windy days.

That's why this is a bad idea......

I found a squatter coop retains more heat.

Taller coops allow for good ventilation way above the birds heads.

 

[Bonkerelli]

It's been some years since I've had chickens. At what temp is it safe to bring chickens outside to coop? I'm getting them in May and live in the northeast. Thank you

Here is an extensive article that goes more into about brooders, light bulbs, size of brooders, and etc from University of Florida.
https://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/publication/AN182

 

[aart]

What about ventilation?

To start off, I live in a cold climate when the winters can get into -20F! So anyone who lives in a cold climate.. least consider these tricks.

How often does it get that cold?

 

[3KillerBs]

Unless you live in an area that routinely spends extended time at or below 0F you don't need to keep your coop warm, just dry.

https://www.backyardchickens.com/articles/cold-weather-poultry-housing-and-care.72010/

 

[3KillerBs]

Hello, ventilation is important but can let in a draft during windy days. Were I live is in the mountains.. it was -18 few days ago. Every winter it gets in the negative teens.

Chickens have extremely delicate respiratory systems so ventilation is absolutely critical.

If you provide it at roof-peak level (many people use soffit and ridge or soffit and gable venting), there will be no drafts.

Have a look at my brooder -- which is 4x8 and only 4-feet tall, but has 16 square feet of permanent, 24/7/365 ventilation and 10 square feet of supplemental ventilation. It is 100% draft-free with the supplemental vents closed.

Here's how I arranged the perches when using it for grow-out:

When I lower the tarp on that open end and clip it down there are absolutely no drafts at perch level while still maintaining triple the recommended amount of ventilation per bird.

 

[Bonkerelli]

It's been some years since I've had chickens. At what temp is it safe to bring chickens outside to coop? I'm getting them in May and live in the northeast. Thank you

Let's start from the beginning. When you first get chicks they need a broader at 95F the first week. Then lower the temperature 5 degrees per week. Chicks are fully feathered around 8 weeks. So by the time they're fully feathered they can handle cooler temperatures around 60F. Hope that clears it up for you.