Mobile Coop extension cord and electric fence

Vampire Gardener

Chirping
Apr 25, 2023
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39
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I have a mobile coop that I plan to move around my yard roughly 4 times a year with the hope that I can move an electric fence to give them more free range options as the year goes by. They will have a 6 x 12' dedicated predator proof 1/2" hard wire cloth run and access to the forage a few times a day when I'm out and about (not at work). My hope is that the electric fence keeps the big critters away during the day and the coop and the hardwire cloth mobile run keeps them locked in at night or when I have to be away for a while.

I have an ador1 door. So, to my questions:

I have two outdoor outlets in different locations in my yard. I was hoping to run an outdoor extension cord (50') into my coop for power and to use a plug in electric fence. Any issues I should know about this? I don't want to dig in because I plan to move the coop at least twice if not 6-8 times a year.

Does anyone have a battery back up for when you lose power or do you just assume that the two times a year it happens the critters will not know because they assume it is still powered and stay clear.

I was planning to get a Premier1 fence due to BYC recommendations. Anyone have thoughts about which one? I was looking at the 164' length but wonder if it would be better to get two shorter ones for ease on moving. Joule suggestions? I was thinking about the blue net so they can see it better. Let me know if you have any thoughts...I am completely new to electric fences. Do you normally turn it off before you move a section to enter the run or do people build temporary doors?

Lastly, I have cedar mulch in a few places in my yard, do I need to keep the chickens away from it? I've read that it isn't good for the chickens. But I've also seen that some people use cedar shavings as bedding. Am I missing something? I put cedar mulch around my garden because it is supposed to attract less bugs. Now I'm wondering if I need to move it to a chicken free zone.
 
I prefer Starkline premium fencing to Premier. The stakes are sturdier in my opinion (I have both). They also have a solar energizer that eliminates the need for an extension cord for the netting. I went with the 164’ fence. It isn’t that hard to move and eliminates one more connection.
 
I prefer Starkline premium fencing to Premier. The stakes are sturdier in my opinion (I have both). They also have a solar energizer that eliminates the need for an extension cord for the netting. I went with the 164’ fence. It isn’t that hard to move and eliminates one more connection.
I use a solar energizer. Parmak is the brand.
I use the Kencove fence because at the time it was the only one in green and black which was less visually intrusive.
You will likely need extra posts to limit sag so that is a hidden cost.
I have some Ptemier1 ‘Fiber Tough’ posts which are awesome as well as the Kencove ones. And a box of ones I got at TSC. I also use them to hold up deer netting around shrubs to protect them from chickens and deer. They are pretty effective too.
For me going solar on the energizer for the fence was a game changer.
 
I prefer Starkline premium fencing to Premier. The stakes are sturdier in my opinion (I have both). They also have a solar energizer that eliminates the need for an extension cord for the netting. I went with the 164’ fence. It isn’t that hard to move and eliminates one more connection.
Great thanks...do you feel like you have enough power? I was worried about as it looked like the solar weren't as strong joule wise. Thanks!
 
I use a solar energizer. Parmak is the brand.
I use the Kencove fence because at the time it was the only one in green and black which was less visually intrusive.
You will likely need extra posts to limit sag so that is a hidden cost.
I have some Ptemier1 ‘Fiber Tough’ posts which are awesome as well as the Kencove ones. And a box of ones I got at TSC. I also use them to hold up deer netting around shrubs to protect them from chickens and deer. They are pretty effective too.
For me going solar on the energizer for the fence was a game changer.
I like Parmak. From my research it looks like the only brand that is Made in America which I try to buy whenever possible.

Most of their documentation is for line fencing not mesh which is my plan.
They also say 3 6-8' ground rods. The problem I have there is I plan to move the fence around. Does that mean I have to dig up the ground rods each time or just buy enough wire to span the distance to where I have the fence. I'm assuming that the ground won't be as effective when far from the energizer. They say no more than 20' away from the energizer in their documentation. This would work for a permanent coop with pasture rotation around the coop, but at times I plan to move the coop 100'+ feet from the last location. I only have 1 acre of area to move around in but not sure of the proper setup. I could buy additional ground rods and just leave in the ground, but it says you need to replace them every 2 or so years because they deteriorate.

Others say 1 3' rod for their energizers. I'm assuming they aren't as effective, but not sure if Parmak is overkill since I am only planning to energize 1 164' starkline fence. I may in the future do another separate fence around my garden, but I don't plan to let the chicks in there because my garden is surrounded by cedar mulch.

I was looking at the Surround Em, the Solar 6V or 12V and the Magnum 12, all Parmak brands. We are planning to do solar but my husband loves the idea of getting separate parts for replacement purposes. Thoughts? Anyone talk more about their Parmak setup?

I have dry clay soil and a sprinkler system I can setup to help keep the ground moist. The whole electric fence setup is a bit past my normal wheelhouse.

Thanks!
 
I like Parmak. From my research it looks like the only brand that is Made in America which I try to buy whenever possible.

Most of their documentation is for line fencing not mesh which is my plan.
They also say 3 6-8' ground rods. The problem I have there is I plan to move the fence around. Does that mean I have to dig up the ground rods each time or just buy enough wire to span the distance to where I have the fence. I'm assuming that the ground won't be as effective when far from the energizer. They say no more than 20' away from the energizer in their documentation. This would work for a permanent coop with pasture rotation around the coop, but at times I plan to move the coop 100'+ feet from the last location. I only have 1 acre of area to move around in but not sure of the proper setup. I could buy additional ground rods and just leave in the ground, but it says you need to replace them every 2 or so years because they deteriorate.

Others say 1 3' rod for their energizers. I'm assuming they aren't as effective, but not sure if Parmak is overkill since I am only planning to energize 1 164' starkline fence. I may in the future do another separate fence around my garden, but I don't plan to let the chicks in there because my garden is surrounded by cedar mulch.

I was looking at the Surround Em, the Solar 6V or 12V and the Magnum 12, all Parmak brands. We are planning to do solar but my husband loves the idea of getting separate parts for replacement purposes. Thoughts? Anyone talk more about their Parmak setup?

I have dry clay soil and a sprinkler system I can setup to help keep the ground moist. The whole electric fence setup is a bit past my normal wheelhouse.

Thanks!
I started as a newbie on this but it turned out not to be too hard.
You can get a pos-neg net fence which doesn’t need a ground rod at all. Basically the ‘ground wire’ is built into the net.
You can also have more, shorter ground rods and just pound them in whenever you set up. If you are super organized you could even map out your property and figure some efficient locations for ground rods that would work with multiple positions of the fence and energizer. If you do that I might make those the full 8’. They aren’t that hard to pound in unless you hit rock. I am a fat old lady and managed to pound in my rods in my own.
Two things the documentation never made clear. One important to avoid and one may be helpful.
First is do not mix metals between the ground rod and what is connected to it. You will get galvanic corrosion. The first ground rod I had was put in by an electrician who was working on the house. It is copper and ate through the ground wire within a few months (which is why I found myself pounding in galvanized ones to replace it).
Second whic is hopefully helpful. The location of the energizer doesn’t actually matter. Mine is solar so it sits out in the field in full sun. But my chickens like shade so they are not in the same area. I ran an insulated wire (sometimes called an underground wire) from the live terminal of the energizer to a metal clip that is mounted on an insulator on the side of the coop itself. That is my live connection point for the fence. I did not bury my wire but I did thread it through an old defunct gatden hose so I would be able to see it more easily. It just runs through the fenced area from the energizer to wherever I want to connect the fence. Hope I explained that well.
All this - ground rods and insulated wire are available in the ‘fence accessories’ sections of the Kencove or Premier1 websites.
And the Parma’s works just fine with netting - it can’t tell what you attach to it!
Happy to answer questions if helpful.
 
I agree use solar + battery. Or just battery and charge it every other week. The electric fence uses almost no electricity unless something touches it. Battery lasts a long time one one charge.
I nearly went battery and just charge it when needed until I figured that the energizer can be located far from the fence. So then I went solar so I didn’t need to do anything.
I did have to get a new batter recently - the first one lasted just under three years I think.
 
I nearly went battery and just charge it when needed until I figured that the energizer can be located far from the fence. So then I went solar so I didn’t need to do anything.
I did have to get a new batter recently - the first one lasted just under three years I think.
I started as a newbie on this but it turned out not to be too hard.
You can get a pos-neg net fence which doesn’t need a ground rod at all. Basically the ‘ground wire’ is built into the net.
You can also have more, shorter ground rods and just pound them in whenever you set up. If you are super organized you could even map out your property and figure some efficient locations for ground rods that would work with multiple positions of the fence and energizer. If you do that I might make those the full 8’. They aren’t that hard to pound in unless you hit rock. I am a fat old lady and managed to pound in my rods in my own.
Two things the documentation never made clear. One important to avoid and one may be helpful.
First is do not mix metals between the ground rod and what is connected to it. You will get galvanic corrosion. The first ground rod I had was put in by an electrician who was working on the house. It is copper and ate through the ground wire within a few months (which is why I found myself pounding in galvanized ones to replace it).
Second whic is hopefully helpful. The location of the energizer doesn’t actually matter. Mine is solar so it sits out in the field in full sun. But my chickens like shade so they are not in the same area. I ran an insulated wire (sometimes called an underground wire) from the live terminal of the energizer to a metal clip that is mounted on an insulator on the side of the coop itself. That is my live connection point for the fence. I did not bury my wire but I did thread it through an old defunct gatden hose so I would be able to see it more easily. It just runs through the fenced area from the energizer to wherever I want to connect the fence. Hope I explained that well.
All this - ground rods and insulated wire are available in the ‘fence accessories’ sections of the Kencove or Premier1 websites.
And the Parma’s works just fine with netting - it can’t tell what you attach to it!
Happy to answer questions if helpful.
All really great information. Thanks!

Is your ground wire and rods near the energizer? Or near the fence run through the garden hose using insulated wire?

Wondering how far the grounds can be from the fence itself. The first rod needs to be within 20' of the charger, but could the rods be 50' away from the fence itself because the hot is run via an insulated wire to the fence. Does that work? Or do the rods need to be close to the fence?
 

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