NEED TO BUY A COOP!

[momofthehouse]

We move in the next couple of months and there is a coop on our property (5 acres) already and it has two chickens however I want 6-8 layers and meat birds. Everyone keeps saying just to build a coop but we wont have time with the move and trying to get that part of our house situated. I am wondering if there is anyone that has built a coop in Western WA and could post pics. We have a range of weather conditions and I also know that the coons like the chickens where we will be living. I am going to have them free range most of the time but if they had to be locked while I am away for an extended period I want to know they are comfortable but also safe. I have researched some and I know easy DIYs for water dispenser, food dispenser but that is all so far. So if there happens to be no one that builds them is there a good kit that will be comfortable for this amount or a not too expensive way to build one that maybe my hubby can do in a day or weekend? If I can tell him a price savings of making versus buying he might build it ha!

I will eventually lay own fertile eggs and raise chicks etc. if that matters on the type of coop (I dont think it does since I have to keep them warmer before putting them into the coop)

Specifications: (there might be more but this is what I know right now that is good to have)

* Extract eggs from outside of coop
* Poop tray that I can easily remove from outside and clean
* Flooring (I dont mind laying stuff down and cleaning it but heard lenoleum with sand works good? (Like scooping poop out of a litter box)
* I don't want to move the coop.
* Size doesn't matter just want it big enough to house up to 10 chickens.
* Divider so I can split up layers versus meats? Not sure if this is needed? maybe someone can enlighten me? I figured I would get enough where some will lay and the not so good layers I will just slaughter. (Still researching breeds)
* Yes cute would be fun
* Able to walk in it but not a necessity I have small kids that can help
* Be able to withstand our weather from 100 degree down to teens and snowing. I wont be able to run electricity to it at this time.

So hit me up with suggestions, any other specs I might want etc.

Thanks in advance and feel free to message me as well. I am open to feedback and thanks for reading my novel!

Jennifer
[email protected]

 

[Ridgerunner]

I’m going to give you some homework. First, this is a recent thread about purchased coops. Maybe I can get you off that idea this easily.

https://www.backyardchickens.com/t/852529/money-poorly-spent

Now, some stuff I think should be required reading for anyone building a coop and run.

Pat’s Big Ol' Ventilation Page
https://www.backyardchickens.com/web/viewblog.php?id=1642-VENTILATION

Pat’s Big Ol' Mud Page (fixing muddy runs):
https://www.backyardchickens.com/web/viewblog.php?id=1642-fix-a-muddy-run

In your climate especially ventilation will be important. The teens is not that cold to a chicken wearing a permanent down coat as long as it is out of a direct breeze. In the winter just have the ventilation over their heads when they are roosting. In summer, you can’t have too much ventilation.

Wet is probably going to be your enemy more than anything else. Position the coop and run where water drains away from it, not in a low spot that will stay wet.

Next. Look in my signature and follow that link. That handles the space question. Size does matter.

I think that is all the homework.

An easy way to get a good coop fairly fast is to get a building form Lowe’s or Home Depot and modify that. Some of that is covered in that first thread.

I really like a walk-in coop. I’ve found a possum, a dead chicken, and snakes inside. I think it is good to go in and check things out.

You are right to think about poop management. There are a tremendous number of different things we do as far as the poop. I prefer a droppings board instead, but again there are a lot of different ways to use those. You can do a search on here for droppings boards or start a thread on that topic by itself.

I don’t raise meaties myself, just use my dual purpose for meat. The meaties poop a whole lot and you will butcher them by 8 weeks or so. I’d suggest a totally different building for them or section off a part of your coop for them. Either way can work. Again, maybe go to the meat bird section and read up or start a separate thread there.

My brooder is in the coop, right under the roosts. The top is my droppings board. If you can run electricity to it, you don’t need the chicks in the house at all.

Good luck with it and welcome.

 

[3riverschick]

I second Ridgerunner's suggestions.

Another one might be to go to craigslist and look
for a shed you can buy new or used. Then just adjust to your needs.Really, you want
a walk-in coop and run. Nothing worse then crawling thru mid and poop to retrieve a bird.
Yuck!

Check your area to see what varmints you have If weasels, or minks,

surf
"weasel-proof poultry yards" for suggestions.
Best,
Karen

lotsa sheds and choices!!!!
http://olympic.craigslist.org/search/?sort=rel&areaID=466&subAreaID=&query=shed&catAbb=sss
http://olympic.craigslist.org/for/4280294529.html
couldn't resist : http://olympic.craigslist.org/fuo/4317673025.html

 

[TXchickmum]

We purchased a shed kit from our local home improvement store and had it put together in one day. -modified it for ventilation and added some extras (nest boxes, hardware cloth, etc.). -absolutely love having a walk-in coop! -makes things so much easier, IMO.

 

[ChicKat]

My solutions have been to have a wire run - we are more threatened by heat here - and safely inside the run I have a shelter for the chickens. The run (as big as you can make it) protects the chickens from predators like racoons, and I have a kit coop inside that. It probably would take more than a day - unless you found a chain-link dog kennel on Craigslist - and put a roof on it. Hoop coop is also strong and contains chickens. I think since laying hens and meat birds are different, and need different feed - my approach would be to have two separate environments. Meat birds generally aren't around for more than a couple months before they are ready to process, layers aren't even ready for eggs until they are 4 to 6 months old or so.


Here are some links/photos:

cattle panels, covered in Hardware cloth - Kit coop inside, can be put up on legs, built with 2x4's - this example has tarp to give shade and protect from rain - 2 cattle panels approx 16'x4' - If you don't intend to drag it around you would be good with 3 rather than 2 cattle panels...

Inside view

building 'legs' for the actual coop:

Placed on legs with the ramp.

SnapLock coop - small size about $450 holds 4-5 hens if they are small to medium sized like - golden comet, cream legbar, easter egger, or large size has three roosting bars - each can hold 4-hens, and small has 3 nesting boxes, large has 6 nesting boxes. Large is $650- and literally does snap and lock into place. Racoons tried to get into one one night before I had run around it and didn't succeed, (latches must be firmly sealed though) - Plastic gives fewer places for red mites to live and needn't be painted, is insulated and light weight to move around Has poop trays.


BTW If you use PDZ on poop trays it is like kitty litter and lighter than sand...clumps the poop and absorbs moisture - check out the first several posts of this thread for explanation:
https://www.backyardchickens.com/t/...graphic-gross-poop-pictures/810#post_10945705



chain link dog kennel - 10-feet wide by 20-feet long divided in center, has access door in center divider - bought 3rd hand for low cost -

This - as all runs would probably need roofing or tarps to protect from rain, and would need skirting and hardware cloth cladding. Inside is lots of room.

I'm sure that there are as many coop preferences as there are people, but if you are in an area with a lot of predators and hawks, you really need a safe run for your chickens - JMO -

Congrats on your move and getting chickens - you will enjoy it so much!!

 

[nikki1]

I live in western Washington, too. I've had chickens for 2 years, and we seem to be doing ok. Since it's rarely way hot, I'm doing pretty well with a couple windows for cross flow in summer, and some roofline vents year round. I use the plastic nest boxes they sell in feed stores, and I made little cut out doors as egg hatches. Love myself for putting vinyl flooring in the coop, as cleaning is a snap. You'll definitely need a heated waterer for winter, but an insulated coop isn't a must...we get chilly here, but not frigid. I have a walk in run with sand to make it easy to clean, and we have a crushed rock path aroun the whole thing so we aren't wading in mud.

Hope this helps.

 

[Beekissed]

Scratch that .....saw your OP:

Quote:
You can retrofit a cute wooden shed from Lowe's for much less money than these coop sites and will have a much better coop in the long run. Deep litter is your best bet...the slide out boards for a coop big enough to house that many birds would be nigh impossible. You'll need more space for meaty birds as they grow differently, so separate feeders from the layers and low, very wide roosts or floor space for them with good, deep bedding/litter.

Deep litter is the best option for anyone: https://www.backyardchickens.com/t/70/deep-litter-method

Raising meaties with layers: https://www.backyardchickens.com/t/...have-a-rooster-raising-50-cx-chicks-new-batch

You'll need a lot of ventilation in your coop, so if you get a shed from Lowe's or a high dollar coop from these rip off sites, you'll need to cut some good ventilation cut out to keep the birds healthy. You also need to consider predator proofing every little thing unless you will have good farm dogs out day and night to protect your coop and run.

For ten chickens that are not free ranged all the time...and even if they are and you get bad winters...you'll need at least an 8x10 on floor space. Even that won't be enough unless you have a very calm, social flock of breeds that are known for good temperaments. Err on the side of caution when it comes to space. The more experienced flock masters will tell you to try for 4-6 sq. ft. per standard fowl bird in the coop, 18 in. for each bird on the roost, one nest box per every 4 birds, 10 sq. ft per bird in the run.

 

[bluefrog87]

I disagree with beekissed on nest box numbers but I like slightly broody breeds. I go for a 1 hen :2 nest box ratio. I agree with 4sq ft per bird if not free ranged or in horrid 110 climate but since you said you were free ranging on 5 acres I think you could get away with a very tad smaller if wanted but not much.

Sq feet per bird depends on climate, their space during the day, size of bird and nature of the bird (laid back like an orpington or mean little a**holes like a rhode island red). I hate rhode island reds. I steer clear of them on personality alone. But the point is be sure to pick your breed or breed qualities before you pick the coop.

My opinion on horizon structures. You could get a nice coop. You'd have to ignore their math. But you could get a very nice coop and you'd be extremely happy with it. But, the base price on the one that could suit your needs is 3500 dollars. Probably closer to 4000-4500 dollars if you get the cleaner coop/electric features. And that was the only thing that killed it for me. Gosh darn not being rich and famous. Instead, I'm average and loved by family and friends.

 

[nikki1]

Do you mind posting a pic of your coop Nikki1? That is awesome you live around here. We are in Kitsap County so across the water from Seattle. Glad to know you like the linoleum floor. I had seen that mentioned along with the sand. What bedding do you use in your nest boxes? 

If you go to the top of the page and type "coop in the great northwet" it should take you to my coop. Be careful to type northwet, not northwest... Particularly appropriate right now! Let me know what you think.

 

[aart]

Wichita Cabin Coops are pretty nice...and they can be built larger pretty easily by modifying the plans.

Insulation would not be needed in your climate....go for large roof overhangs and lots of ventilation so you can keep the rain out and encourage releasing humidity and ammonia.

It is overwhelming...take your time, read a lot and plan well before buying anything even tho it takes a long time to learn patience.