New aggression and reintroduction in winter

[MissGreenJeans]

Making the roost run diagonally will make for a longer roost than running it square to the wall. It will also move the birds more to the inside of the coop, not so close to the walls.

Mammals with fur coats need acclimation time. Their winter coats differ considerably from the summer coat, after shedding. Birds are not like that so much. In SD we frequently have very dramatic temperature shifts of 50-70 degrees. It really does not phase chickens at all.

People tend to thing warm and cold with chickens, because as a mammal that is what is important to us. Chickens really need dry and wind protections. The temperature is really not a life threatening problem most of the time unless it gets TOO HOT.

I would look at pin less peepers for one difficult chicken or re-home her. I like a peaceful flock.

Being raised together really has almost not influence on adult chickens.

Mrs K

Thanks, Mrs K! Love the idea to make the roosting bars diagonal.

I like a peaceful flock, too. Hope reintroduction will work—but if it doesn’t, I’ll do the best thing for the girls and rehome.

 

[SmiYa0126]

Hi! How many chickens do you have and how big is the coop?

 

[MissGreenJeans]

Hi! How many chickens do you have and how big is the coop?

Hi! I have 7 chickens. The coop is 30 sq. ft. (of course, the manufacturer says it can house 15—hah!), that’s just over 4 sq. ft. per chicken. Is a bit tight. The run’s about 100 sq. ft., so over 10 sq. ft. per chicken. I had planned to also let them free range during the day, but the predators where I live have decimated my neighbors’ flocks, so I instead try to provide a lot of enrichment in the run.

 

[SmiYa0126]

Hi! I have 7 chickens. The coop is 30 sq. ft. (of course, the manufacturer says it can house 15—hah!), that’s just over 4 sq. ft. per chicken. Is a bit tight. The run’s about 100 sq. ft., so over 10 sq. ft. per chicken. I had planned to also let them free range during the day, but the predators where I live have decimated my neighbors’ flocks, so I instead try to provide a lot of enrichment in the run.

Wow, that's great! Are your perches all at the same heights or are they different? Can you take some pictures of inside of your coop?

 

[MissGreenJeans]

Yes too close, can you put a roosting bar on the opposite side? They should be the same height or there will be squabbles, they all want the highest perch.

Ah hah! So I was wrong to think different heights would be a good thing? I can definitely look at the space and try to figure out how to keep the heights the same but add some space.

I was a little concerned about putting a perch too close to the windows, which I usually keep open. The coop came with almost no ventilation, so I added more high up—but I like to open the windows, too. Not necessarily great in the winter, though…

 

[MissGreenJeans]

What you could do is put awnings over the windows, so it allows the warm air escape but no drafts. That's what I had to do with mine.

Also—any thoughts about the reintro and acclimation to cold temps info and questions above? Feeling a bit uncertain about my plan.

 

[MissGreenJeans]

Molting can cause change in behavior. Molters may act a little off and try to avoid contact with other birds, which could possibly worsen pecking order issues as chickens may be more inclined to attack birds that seem ill or off.

Shouldn't take long, maybe a few days, for a healthy adult bird. But if the temps warm up like you anticipate, going from 60s inside to 50-ish outside should be fine without any acclimating.

You can try that, it does work in some situations. Something more solid like cardboard or scrap wood may be a better option so the birds can't see each other to peck each other.

Different height roosts can work, but if all the birds are wanting the top bar and not sharing well, it might work better to have roosts at same height. I agree the two roosts look too close together, you want 14-16" between them to prevent bullying/picking.

Thank you so much! I’ll add cardboard instead of the wire, and I’ll work on spacing out those perches. It’s good to know that molting might be the cause. I noticed that Dot did seem a bit off. I bet Towanda did, too (and also felt crappy herself).

Re: the temps, just to make sure I’ve got it:
Should be okay to transfer Towanda back to the coop if it’s in the 50s during the day, even if it drops down to the high 20s and 30s at night, when they’re all in the coop?

 

[rosemarythyme]

Thank you so much! I’ll add cardboard instead of the wire, and I’ll work on spacing out those perches. It’s good to know that molting might be the cause. I noticed that Dot did seem a bit off. I bet Towanda did, too (and also felt crappy herself).

Re: the temps, just to make sure I’ve got it:
Should be okay to transfer Towanda back to the coop if it’s in the 50s during the day, even if it drops down to the high 20s and 30s at night, when they’re all in the coop?

Well you said you were going to bring her in at night, because you can't fit the crate inside the coop. If that's not the case (you're using the dividers to break up the space instead) I'd give her a couple days outside + taking her in at night, and then she should be fine to stay out after that, as that gives her some variance in temps to ease the adjustment.