Preparing Your Flock & Coop for WINTER

We are in eastern Washington and can get some very cold winters. My main coop is 6'x6'x4' with the top back half insulated with the sheet insulating foam board and the bottom half is screened. I put in storm windows on the upper half for the warming winter sun to penetrate. Then two additions on each side which are both screened in, one with a slanted covered roof and the other is a wire roof. I wrap the vertical screened area with 4 to 6 mil plastic each winter. I planned ahead and put up two shelves with formica sheeting on the top insulated half with shower stall inserts on the upright surfaces. I wanted ease of poop scrapping and ease in cleaning the walls and have been very pleased with the preparations. For this winter I have a heated poultry waterer and will be using straw in addition. The soiled straw is great to recycle in a compost pile in preparations for gardening. My girls have been healthy, happy and giving us delicious eggs. I am so hooked on having chickens as pets as well as productive members of the family.
where are u located
 
Quote: I would love to see some pics of your setup...from your post I'm having difficulty 'visualizing' it...chalking it up to being an 'ol senior citizen!
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I have just winterized our coop run over the weekend using mainly clear corrugated polycarbonate roofing panels and tons of zip ties.

Last week, we had 2 days of heavy thunderstorms and the night time temperature dipped down to the 30's, the bedding of the run was all wet and muddy, prompted this winterizing project.

While doing my research to find ways to shield the rain, snow and wind during the winter by covering the run, three different materials were considered: heavy-duty clear tarp with grommets, twinwall polycarbonate greenhouse panels, and clear corrugated polycarbonate roofing panels. Each material has its pros and cons. The tarp obviously is the cheapest and most popular option, but I have concern with mildew after a season or two and if it would be flopping in strong wind. I would also have to add more grommets and sew the seams after cutting the panels to size. Frankly, I am not good with the sewing-machine, so this option was abandoned. The twinwall greenhouse panel was the best material for keeping warm, provide visual clarity, but it was also the most expensive even when ordering the 2' wide easy-ship sizes. On top of that, since the flutes are designed to run vertically to drain out the moisture and dust, these panels would need those expensive specialty tapes to seal the top and the bottom or to combine the 2' wide panels into the desire width. In the end, I went for the clear corrugated polycarbonate roofing panels, the same one we used on the run roof. This material is strong, durable, easy to maintain, will not deform like PVC under impact, and it is available locally. Come spring, I will just cut the zip ties and stack them up in the shed.


Here is the coop run covered with corrugated polycarbonate panels. I can still see the girls clearly and vice versa.



The front of the run and the side of the run take the blunt of the north/northwest wind in the winter. By shielding these two sides leaving just the top 6" for venting, it should help to reduce wet floor and cold wind.


The back side is near a fence facing east, so the run was shielded only for the lower 3 feet, the top 2 feet is open for venting. Since most of the run is shield from the wind, the coop door will be left opened 24/7 for more ventilation inside the coop. The girls are used to go in and out as they please morning and night.


The girls love to hang out under the coop napping, so the sides under the coop are also shielded to keep them warm and keep out the snow during the winter. However, the panel that is under the nesting box and the one near the fence are opened on the top 4" for ventilation.


Inside the 4' x 4' x 4' insulated coop, the windows near the 3" diameter roosting bar can be lowered or closed at night. Other windows are opened 24/7 depending on the weather. The coop is air out daily if weather permits. The solar light on the top will shut off automatically after bed time. I added a puck light taped to the side in case of needing some light to check on the girls at night.

My next project is the winter water feeder. Since this coop is located in the shade (thus no solar gain) and has no electricity, keeping the water unfrozen in the winter is a big challenge. Innovated suggestions are welcome.
 
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With regard to water, I'm going to try using a heated stand made from several upside down aluminum casserole dishes with a secured bulb underneath. My galvanized water container should fit well on top. I like the idea of wrapping the run and am planning on putting a spread of hay on the run floor. Deep litter of pine shavings inside the coop will get cleaned out probably monthly with frequent cleaning of nesting boxes. It's my first winter with the ladies, so we'll see.
 
Hi everyone, I'm brand new here, although I have been snooping around the various threads since my chickens were puffballs this summer. Quick backstory: had chickens as a kid, overwintered here in Northern Alberta in our greenhouse, no heat, and lots of frozen combs. Those were the standard red hens.

Now I have two seramas and a Silkie, all hatched this July (I think), and a standard issue metal garden shed I was hoping to use. I also have within that shed a ~3x4' wire cage, with a wooden bottom, and that is fastened to a wooden cabinet style base. It feels "upside-down" for chickens, because all the tractors etc have the wire "run" beneath the wood "coop" and I am having a hard time deciding how to set it up. Right now they can't leave the wire part unless I take them out (which I do most days, putting them into a dog run outside with a shower curtain pegged over the top (oh yes, we're very fancy here....)

They are happy out there down to about 2C right now (at which point the Silkie starts trying to get my attention to go in)

I have been giving them heat, but it's too early to do that, I know.....they are just SO small (under 1 lb) that it's hard to walk away on the -5C nights knowing the coop isn't great, and not beig sure how to house these little ones....they aren't the robust big girls of my youth!

I COULD set up the shed so that they could have access to all of it, although I don't quite know how to rig the doors (they are the standard horrible sliding metal panels)

I'm not wealthy, moderately handy, and looking for suggestions! If pictures would help, I can probably take some but they may have to wait for tomorrow now (low light)

Typical winters here hover around -15C with -20C to -25C being pretty common, and cold snaps of -30C to -40C (especialy in late Jan). Relatively dry, usually. Usually quite a bit of snow.

Interested in your ideas!

Dawn

PS - also looking at water and feed ideas...just picked up enough ABS pipe for a pipe feeder with elbow, water is still in a quail waterer
 
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Hi everyone, I'm brand new here, although I have been snooping around the various threads since my chickens were puffballs this summer. Quick backstory: had chickens as a kid, overwintered here in Northern Alberta in our greenhouse, no heat, and lots of frozen combs. Those were the standard red hens.

Now I have two seramas and a Silkie, all hatched this July (I think), and a standard issue metal garden shed I was hoping to use. I also have within that shed a ~3x4' wire cage, with a wooden bottom, and that is fastened to a wooden cabinet style base. It feels "upside-down" for chickens, because all the tractors etc have the wire "run" beneath the wood "coop" and I am having a hard time deciding how to set it up. Right now they can't leave the wire part unless I take them out (which I do most days, putting them into a dog run outside with a shower curtain pegged over the top (oh yes, we're very fancy here....)

They are happy out there down to about 2C right now (at which point the Silkie starts trying to get my attention to go in)

I have been giving them heat, but it's too early to do that, I know.....they are just SO small (under 1 lb) that it's hard to walk away on the -5C nights knowing the coop isn't great, and not beig sure how to house these little ones....they aren't the robust big girls of my youth!

I COULD set up the shed so that they could have access to all of it, although I don't quite know how to rig the doors (they are the standard horrible sliding metal panels)

I'm not wealthy, moderately handy, and looking for suggestions! If pictures would help, I can probably take some but they may have to wait for tomorrow now (low light)

Typical winters here hover around -15C with -20C to -25C being pretty common, and cold snaps of -30C to -40C (especialy in late Jan). Relatively dry, usually. Usually quite a bit of snow.

Interested in your ideas!

Dawn

PS - also looking at water and feed ideas...just picked up enough ABS pipe for a pipe feeder with elbow, water is still in a quail waterer
Seramas are so small to begin with and Silkies are not much larger. They tend to be a lot more hardy than most people think but they are in need of more care than standard sized chickens. If possible you might try to restructure your current pen so that they can come and go at will (put the top on the bottom as I read your post). That way they would be able to go inside if they were getting chilly and would be safe inside a wired enclosure.

I have 8 Sebright Bantams and they are tiny but not as small as the Seramas. They tend to huddle together when they get chilled but don't seem to need supplemental heat. If I put a heat lamp near them they just move away from it and still huddle together. If it gets really really cold you might consider moving their pen inside a garage or enclosed porch if you have one.

I would not let them out of their pen (in the yard) unattended. I don't know about Seramas but my Sebrights can fly really well and would be off and over the fence, up in a big tree and all over the place in a flash.
 
no room in garage and no porch (neither of which would be heated or insulated anyhow)

My Silkie is a LOT bigger than the Serama girls. I am thinking I will weigh everyone tonight now that I'm thinking about their size.

They do seem to fly quite well, (not the Silkie...she's fairly leaden and earthbound - cuddly but not designed for flight!) and there are a lot of cats in the neighbourhood who are happy to watch chicken TV thru the pen, but I am sure they would be happier to catch them. They are safe, but the set up isn't great for them to "self serve" on location. They won't be able to go out much in the winter, if at all....the outdoor pen isn't winter-worthy.

I'm not thinking they will need room temps, but I just don't think they will be ok in our winter without heat. I can talk to the breeder who is local, and get some ideas (they gave me the Silkie free to help with the warmth for the Seramas)

I'll take some photos. I know my explanations of the set up isn't too clear.
 
no room in garage and no porch (neither of which would be heated or insulated anyhow)

My Silkie is a LOT bigger than the Serama girls.  I am thinking I will weigh everyone tonight now that I'm thinking about their size.

They do seem to fly quite well,  (not the Silkie...she's fairly leaden and earthbound - cuddly but not designed for flight!) and there are a lot of cats in the neighbourhood who are happy to watch chicken TV thru the pen, but I am sure they would be happier to catch them.  They are safe, but the set up isn't great for them to "self serve" on location.  They won't be able to go out much in the winter, if at all....the outdoor pen isn't winter-worthy.

I'm not thinking they will need room temps, but I just don't think they will be ok in our winter without heat.  I can talk to the breeder who is local, and get some ideas (they gave me the Silkie free to help with the warmth for the Seramas)

I'll take some photos.  I know my explanations of the set up isn't too clear.


To help insulate, could you stack hay bales around the perimeter of the shed?
 
yes I plan to do that. Also looking at that silver bubblewrap style reflective insulation and thinking that may work in the small coop to keep their body heat in better.
 

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