Purina Coop plans or something easy

[21hens-incharge]

Seriously pricey for a decent quality kit.
Have you looked at getting a wooden shed and converting it into a coop?
If you have basic carpentry skills a chicken coop can be a fun project.
Craigslist is a good place to find materials as can be the cull bin at Home Depot.
We have a place here that sells reclaimed, overbuy and slightly damaged materials cheap. I got siding for 7 dollars a sheet. We used it on this emergency coop.

I had enough scrap left to build the broody house.

You just gotta know where to look.
A tip would be to know what the plan is and stick with it. It is easy to end up with lumber you do not need piling up.

 

[Egghead_Jr]

Here are the Purina coop plans. If I could make a suggestion, instead of 4' x 4', make it 4' x 6' or better still, 4' x 8' and leave the entire front (high end) wide open. Wire only on the front for good ventilation. Move the nest boxes from the front to the side and install all roost bars level (NOT the ladder style they show).

Also, if you then want to include an attached run, build a duplicate of this coop, but only the framing and roof. The plywood sides would be replaced with welded wire or hardware cloth. This one be attached to one side, with the pop door moved from the front to the side and opening into the run.

At that point, you have a really nice coop along the lines of a Wichita style.

As originally drawn, the Purina coop lacks light and ventilation.......may not have either. That may be why they took it down?

My coop is based on these plans. The ventilation is more than adequate- it's 1.5" across the entire front and back using convection to move the air. With a 4x4 the nests can be reduced to 2 and can fit beside the door if moved to one side. I had a coop built that way. I've a newer coop on this design that is 4x7, 3 nest box moved to side and roof is 2x2 rafters with hardware cloth screwed to it entire area then tin screwed on. High hat of tin is the vents that way. More than enough ventilation. Where people get confused is they compare passive air flow to convection that accelerates air flow (physics).

I've got a link to that coop build. Has another page for the purina coop plans too. The main thing about it is the L corners and cleat system for floor. Corners and main floor frame can be 2x3's and everything else 2x2's for reduced weight and costs. The cleat for floor is 2x2 not a full 2x3 as it's just somthing to screw to. Same with roof frame and any joist or studs. I use 3/8 sheathing, being on stilts an exterior stain is plenty.

https://www.backyardchickens.com/t/1036728/my-4x7-weasel-proof-moveable-coop-for-about-300

 

[Frosty29]

So I started building the coop. How should I handle framing the top of the coop. I plan on framing the roof exactly like the Purina instructions. Instructions aren't that clear for me.

 

[Egghead_Jr]

The purina roof is assembled then put on. It's a frame with 2x3's or 2x4's put sideways in middle to create vent space. You'll have to figure how to hardware cloth those openings or weasels can get in.

The double row of timber on the sides of roof are one for frame (roof overhang) and second piece acts like a box lid. It slides over side of coop and you screw that to top of wall to hold in place.

 

[Frosty29]

So I'm done framing according to my picture? All I have to do is build the roof/ lid?

 

[Frosty29]

We don't have weasels where I live so I'm not too worried.

 

[Frosty29]

Just added the vinyl floor