Raising Meat Rabbits

[junebuggena]

They will be fine in her cage for about 4 to 5 weeks. By then, the kits should be weaned, and you can put kits in the larger cage. Kits don't really start leaving the nest box till they are about 3 to 4 weeks old.

 

[DutchBunny03]

They will be fine in her cage for about 4 to 5 weeks. By then, the kits should be weaned, and you can put kits in the larger cage. Kits don't really start leaving the nest box till they are about 3 to 4 weeks old.

Kits are usually weaned by around 5 weeks, but leave them in the dam's hutch until about 8 weeks, then take them out gradually(biggest ones first).

 

[Raech]

Flemish/Chin crosses are great meat rabbits, and they have pretty pelts. Breeding in the spring is a good idea. How old are the rabbits?

The buck is 5 months old and Im not sure on the doe, she throws large litters though, on average of 8-12. Im sure my friend knows, but until I learn what I am supposed to be doing, I will just enjoy the ride if you know what I mean. I am sure I will end up keeping a couple of hers or buying some adults(probably Toby and Otter) so I can breed as I want to instead of on her schedule.

 

[BantamLover21]

So, does anyone supplement pellets for growing meat kits? My first doe is due soon, silver fox breed. Their pellet feed is a 17% protein, plus they will get timothy hay for roughage. The mill I get their feed from also offers a 26% protein pellet to supplement, and recommends for lactating does as well as growing kits. I asked the guy at the feed store when I ordered last about it, and he said it is a product similar to calf-manna. But he was unsure whether there would be enough benefit from the supplement to offset cost, etc. Is it worth getting?

Also, I have not thus far added salt spools to their cages because I had read that most feeds contain enough. Should I offer them?

17% protein feed is great for kits and breeding animals, which need more energy to grow quickly and support litters/breed successfully. It is a little higher than necessary for non-breeding animals (which generally do well on 16% protein), but the extra protein won't hurt them.

The 26% protein calf-manna like feed probably isn't cost-effective. The extra protein can promote milk production, but plenty of does produce enough milk on normal feed rations. Just remember to free-feed all does with litters.

Salt spools, and any other feed supplements, are not necessary as long as you're feeding quality pellets.

 

[DutchBunny03]

17% protein feed is great for kits and breeding animals, which need more energy to grow quickly and support litters/breed successfully. It is a little higher than necessary for non-breeding animals (which generally do well on 16% protein), but the extra protein won't hurt them.

The 26% protein calf-manna like feed probably isn't cost-effective. The extra protein can promote milk production, but plenty of does produce enough milk on normal feed rations. Just remember to free-feed all does with litters.

Salt spools, and any other feed supplements, are not necessary as long as you're feeding quality pellets.

Too much protein can make rabbits obese, which can lead to kindling problems. Thats why low protein feed is good. Look at the average rabbit today, and it is usually fat. Before pellets were 17% protein and up, fat rabbits were much more rare. The lowest % protein feed i can find is 16%,but i would go down to 14% if i could.

 

[TroyerGal]

Kits are usually weaned by around 5 weeks, but leave them in the dam's hutch until about 8 weeks, then take them out gradually(biggest ones first).

Mine weaned themselves at 4 weeks

They're SO chubby now...

 

[Raech]

So I should have my biggest hutch for the doe then? it is 6 feet buy 3 feet

 

[TroyerGal]

So I should have my biggest hutch for the doe then? it is 6 feet buy 3 feet

I would give the doe the biggest. My does throw largeish litters, and (If i did cages) I would go with that

 

[Raech]

Ok, soon as i get this hutch finished and moved over to my house I will move Otter into his new house. Just need to go out and buy j feeders and a couple more water bottles. I completely forgot that I would need more feeders and water bottles until this morning. Good thing I am building them getting more animals, my bunny math is a little shot. Help me out please: 1 hutch for doe, 1 hutch for buck, 2 hutches for babies(boy and girl) and one hutch for extra bunny. is that correct?

 

[Raech]

sorry double post