Self sustaining flock Questions

[Mrs. K]

I respectfully disagree. In May and June - when I most generally get a broody, the bugs are really coming out and going strong. The broody in July, is because (I think) we had too many dark days, and the birds did not get enough light.

I think that light has a huge influence. I noticed that people would start celebrating or complaining about getting broody hens much earlier in the spring than I ever had, so I started asking if they added light, and those that replied, said that yes, they did. Most of the people on here provide most of their chickens feed with a commercial feed, so I do not think that their intake of food quality falters that much, and thereby causing broodiness, which I am understanding as your view.

Generally speaking with animal husbandry, one gets better reproduction with good feed. Although I have read studies where people have brought in cattle and dry lotted (without feed, but with water) them for two or three days, then put them back on pasture and then added the bulls. They claimed a much higher and tighter conception rate, but it is not a practice that is either practical for us or interesting. We get very good conception rates by meeting our cattle's needs, pulling the bulls out and culling open cattle. I do realize that one cannot transpose studies across species, but I think it is the breaking of the fast with good nutrition that stimulates the reproductive track, not the lack of nutrition.

In poultry, if a bird is laying consistently, I consider her major needs are being met. If the worm load gets too high, or the quality of feed drops, or she just is not getting enough, the bird will stop laying eggs. A non-laying hen is not going to go broody, even though a broody becomes a non-laying hen, when her clutch is established to suit her. A well fed bird, who has her nutritional needs met, will put on weight, so that she can survive the setting for three weeks.

I think it has to do with the amount of light, or length of day.

Mrs K

 

[centrarchid]

During normal laying cycle when at most a dozen or so eggs are produced before onset of broodiness, hen is at peak weight at onset of laying. Weight declines each day. Onset of broody cycle her weight is less than onset of lay. Weight declines with each day of incubation despite consumption of food. When chicks hatch weight in declines further for subsequent couple of weeks since hen forgoes liberal feed intake so she does not compete with nutritional needs of chicks. As chicks gain mobility hen can consume more resulting in weight increasing. More rapid increase in weight is associated with early weaning of chicks. Hens with larger broods have a harder time building that weight back up making so she invests more in better investment / larger brood. After broodiness ends association with juvenile offspring persist although hen is increasingly concerned about her own nutrition. Once pre-lay weight realized again hen begin showing interest in coupling with harem master / rooster and egg production resumes. She still associates with juvenile offspring although not as strongly. Once clutch set (presumably because nutritional reserves low again), broodiness begins again and she becomes hostile to previous brood. That is needed to keep older older offspring from harming new brood which they will if mother does not keep them away. Generally breeding cycles are a follows; ~2 weeks of lay, 3 weeks of incubation, ~ 5 weeks of chick rearing, and up to 2 weeks to recondition. Breeding cycles thus range 10 to 12 weeks from start of one to start of following. Most variable part is the reconditioning part occuring late in season. Physiological conflict with molting and changes in forage quality can increase reconditioning time. Reconditioning is also slowed with hens battling parasites.


Following breeding season weight will less than during active lay. This is likely the normal for chickens not bred for high egg output as retained from jungle ancestors where weight of reproductive tract and nutrient stores is minimized to enable better predator escape abilities.

I likely have more broody hens at a given moment during hatching season than most people with have over five years and I watch things closely handling some hens daily specifically to understand better what is going on. My explanation at least make biological sense.


Take time to suffer whole thread linked below. My studies started well before that and continue to this day.

https://www.backyardchickens.com/t/451333/constructing-a-single-chicken-family-unit-for-porch

 

[lazy gardener]

I agree with you, Mrs. K. While feed restriction followed by return to good rations may induce reproduction, I can't see how it would be in the best interests of the animals, nor would it be beneficial to them in the long run.

 

[centrarchid]

I agree with you, Mrs. K.  While feed restriction followed by return to good rations may induce reproduction, I can't see how it would be in the best interests of the animals, nor would it be beneficial to them in the long run.

If the intent is to induce broodiness in a hen that is already in lay? An objective of OP is to get hens reliably broody to enable rearing of chicks. Hens not doing the job needed as broodies would likely get culled just like hens valued for eggs only not producing eggs. Benefits are clear.

Another thought process for benefits of hen when longevity is involved, laying non-stop is harder on hens than laying less. Hard pressed hens do not live as long.

 

[donrae]

marking my spot as I don't have time to read everything right now.

 

[mosander]

I have been raising chickens for only one year but I have had 3 broody chickens. The first was an Orpington cross. Excellent job but I didn't have many eggs for her to raise. The second was a silkie, she raised 5 purebred Australorps from young pullets with 100% success. They are now huge birds at 4 months. The third is an Australorp hen (who gave eggs to the Silkie in the previous story). I ordered Rhode Island Red fertilized hatchery eggs. They sent 13 eggs. At 10 days, two were duds and discarded. She is still sitting on 11 eggs. She is in a rabbit cage with a nest box inside. You can also add new baby chicks within the first couple of days of hatching (do it in the dark). This will be the largest new flock yet. Hatch date should be about March 10th.
I raised 12 Amerucaunas on the porch. Messy and smelly after the first two weeks. I will never do that again! Broody chickens are wonderful!

 

[mojoejoe]

Well I did itk, but, I need some more advice. I'll try keeping this short.
I purchased a rooster Barred Rrock 2 years old. Just picked him up today.
I am getting my Ready To Lay Hens next Wednsday.

So the question is the introduction. The rooster is in the coop now by himself. When I pick up the Hens next week I was wondering if anyone could advise me on what they feel would be the best way to "introduce" them to each other.
I have never had a rooster before.
Thanks in advance

 

[Whittni]

From my experience, roosters aren't added until the hens are already laying in order to avoiding stressing the pullets out..which would delay their laying even more. However, since your hens will be of age, it'll probably be fine. You'll want to introduce everybody through a fence or cage first for a week or so then add the rooster onto the roost with the girls (this is usually how the forum recommends it).


BUT I'm thinking that since this is your only rooster, that it'll be fine to just add everybody together anyway. The hens will likely just submit to him. The coop will be new to the hens, but already home to the rooster so I just don't think I'd worry in this case.

 

[Chicken Egg 17]

I don't use the fence I toss them in and they fight and work it out and then by the end of the day they are calmed down a bit but still get into it every once in a while

 

[mojoejoe]

Thanks for the pointers. Looks like they'll be getting put in together