Setting 41 on 6-15, 7-8, 7-31, and 8-23 feel free to join in at any time

Some pics from the brooder. My cool brown project bird at 12 days old. Broiler Guinea Fowl, 13 days old, could not get him to turn to the camera. A 13 day old broiler Narragansett-type Turkey The brooder, with 34 birds of various ages from 12 days to 3 weeks old. 4 week olds will go into the young chickens run.
I like the one that wouldn't face the camera. Nice markings. I didn't know you were hatching turkey??
 
So all 80 of the eggs have been in the bators now for just over 7 days, so I candled and weighed them all. 2 RRs, 3 potential RRs, 22 potential clears. Average weight loss should be 4.33%...it is 3.01% in the Janoel, and 3.67% in the Brinsea. Nice and close to target, and better under than over. Assuming all the potential clears are actually clears, I'm at a 72.5% fertility rate, which is lower than my roo has averaged so far, so I strongly suspect some of these potential clears will become viable when I candle next.

On an interesting note, of the 5 eggs that were 21 days old going into the bators, 1 was an RR, 1 is a questionable RR, 2 are potential clears, and 2 have distinct embryos. So no consistent pattern to old eggs...so far. Equally interesting, my other potential RRs are 11 and 3 day old eggs (age at entering the bators). One trend that is fairly stable is that older eggs have lost more weight since being put in the bator than younger eggs. I assume its because the shells of the older eggs had dried out more than the younger eggs. When I start collecting for my next hatch I think I am going to put the eggs into the Sytrofoam bator with the turner and get the humidity up high, but turn the heat way down or off. 40 of my 80 eggs in this setting are 11 days and older, so prior to the next hatch I can keep those older eggs in the styro bator so their shells don't dry out, and keep them turning as well (although I am not sure that turning prior to incubating makes much difference).

I have to say I really like this lying the egg on its side idea. It makes it so much easier to candle and see the embryo...even in dark shells. Also, I think it has made it easier for me to identify clears. All of the viable eggs had the embryonic formation from end to end on one side, even when stood on end for candling. Whereas the clears (or potential clears) seem to just have a blob that moves to the top of the egg when candled. I can't say this with certainty, but its what I will be looking for the most on day 10.

I had the covers off each bator for a good 30 minutes while I candled, and both recovered completely in under 3 minutes...nice. Given how hot it is around here these days, I can't believe it could have any impact on the hatches.
 
Great observations - interesting about the older eggs losing more weight.

What does RR stand for?

Yeah, I use a jewelers scale and weigh every egg as it goes in the bator. In future, I am going to weigh every egg at hatch too. Perhaps the 21 day old eggs have lost weigh more than they should before ever going into the bator...that could explain the common believe that such old eggs aren't viable.

RR = Red Ring, or chick that died in the egg prior to developing. Early in the hatch if your egg, when candled, shows a distinct line around the embryonic area, its a blood ring, and it indicates the egg failed.
 
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I've weighed my eggs each time too, and haven't found very good correlations in the results, but my hatches have been much smaller numbers than yours. One thing I will say, is I believe porosity of the shell has alot to do with weight loss also, and its hard to factor that in (how do you measure it?) but may be worth noting in your spreadsheet, if certain eggs appear more porous when candled? Or maybe you will find better correlations by breed? Just some thoughts...
 

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