Technical coop building question.

[Merrymouse]

Here is one finished. No additional bracing etc

I'm wondering if I did something wrong. Well I know my roof is pretty flat and I will have to be diligent about raking snow off.
One I add the HC I will be sister another 2x4 over each stud to essentially make them 4x4 may this will help too? Not sure.
Thanks again

 

[aart]

It being larger is probably part of it, more weight on top(roof framing/sheathing).
Regardless, if the walls are 'racking' (going from 'square' to a 'parallelogram') would be good to brace them, at least temporarily.
Get it square then screw a long diagonal across most or all wall studs to keep it there for now,
can assess later as you go along whether they need to stay or can be removed.
It may all stiffen up once you get the roof and wall sheathing on.
I couldn't find a good simple illustration quickly.

 

[Ridgerunner]

I don’t know if I can explain this or not, but sheathing or mesh wire properly attached will strengthen that framing up tremendously. Just make sure the framing is square when you attach it. Mesh wire needs to be tight and does less good than sheathing, but it still helps a lot.

The most stable form structurally in nature is a triangle. You can greatly strengthen a wall like that by putting a rope or cable from one top corner to the opposite bottom corner. That rope/cable will be great in tension and worthless in compression so you need another one going from the other corners to form an “X”. When the frame starts to sway one way, one of the ropes goes into tension and stops it. The other one is in compression and useless. But if the frame tries to sway the other way, the ropes switch as far as which is tension and compression.

When you attach sheathing the stress lines in the sheathing do exactly the same thing. You usually can’t see the stress lines but they are there. That’s why you need to attach the sheathing to each stud, so those stress lines can be continuous across the entire wall. Wire mesh does the same thing, sometimes you can even see where the stress lines are by how it deforms and bows. The looser that wire mesh is attached the more movement you can get before those stress lines form. That’s why it needs to be tight.

If you look at a lot of gates, you’ll often see a diagonal, sometimes wire or sometimes wood, to keep the gate from sagging. It’s the same principle. It needs to go from the top hinge to the opposite bottom corner to battle gravity otherwise the gate can really sag. When I build doors to my coop or other places, I often put in a diagonal to keep the door from sagging or distorting so the locks still work and the door fits in the frame.

 

[Merrymouse]

It being larger is probably part of it, more weight on top(roof framing/sheathing).
Regardless, if the walls are 'racking' (going from 'square' to a 'parallelogram') would be good to brace them, at least temporarily.
Get it square then screw a long diagonal across most or all wall studs to keep it there for now,
can assess later as you go along whether they need to stay or can be removed.
It may all stiffen up once you get the roof and wall sheathing on.
I couldn't find a good simple illustration quickly.

Ok, I understand. I will do this. I can always remove if stabilized like you said. Also I may have over stated the racking. It doesn't move alot and the corner bracing I have on it now really helped. Just when you push on it with pretty good force you can get is to rack a little, which is a little disconcerting when I was working on the coop and my DH was on the roof. He doesnt love heights. So I will do the extra bracing. Mostly I just wanted to make sure I didnt do something totally wrong. Thanks again

 

[Merrymouse]

I don’t know if I can explain this or not, but sheathing or mesh wire properly attached will strengthen that framing up tremendously. Just make sure the framing is square when you attach it. Mesh wire needs to be tight and does less good than sheathing, but it still helps a lot.

The most stable form structurally in nature is a triangle. You can greatly strengthen a wall like that by putting a rope or cable from one top corner to the opposite bottom corner. That rope/cable will be great in tension and worthless in compression so you need another one going from the other corners to form an “X”. When the frame starts to sway one way, one of the ropes goes into tension and stops it. The other one is in compression and useless. But if the frame tries to sway the other way, the ropes switch as far as which is tension and compression.

When you attach sheathing the stress lines in the sheathing do exactly the same thing. You usually can’t see the stress lines but they are there. That’s why you need to attach the sheathing to each stud, so those stress lines can be continuous across the entire wall. Wire mesh does the same thing, sometimes you can even see where the stress lines are by how it deforms and bows. The looser that wire mesh is attached the more movement you can get before those stress lines form. That’s why it needs to be tight.

If you look at a lot of gates, you’ll often see a diagonal, sometimes wire or sometimes wood, to keep the gate from sagging. It’s the same principle. It needs to go from the top hinge to the opposite bottom corner to battle gravity otherwise the gate can really sag. When I build doors to my coop or other places, I often put in a diagonal to keep the door from sagging or distorting so the locks still work and the door fits in the frame.

Very good explanation, thank you so much. See above to my response to aart's post. I will add bracing. I also have not put up the walls to my coop part yet so Im sure the walls will help with the racking too. Like I said above the racking was minimal but I just want to make sure I didnt do something completely wrong to effect the integrity of the structure beyond repair. Thank you, I truly appreciate all the help and support from my knowledgeable BYCer's

 

[aart]

Quote: Yah, that is a concern....his weight is adding to the stress on the walls and thus the movement.
You with no experience, and us not being able to 'feel' it...hard to know if the movement you are seeing/feeling is excessive or not.
Best to brace....keep hubby safe.

 

[ScottandSam]

Here is the plan I'm sort of using. Keep in mind this is a 5x10 and mine is 8x14.

Here is one framed

Look at the computer model I see the corners have 2 studs creating a l if viewed from above or below. The middle one on the left has two screwed together. The middle one in the back has 2. And it looks tome like every corner has the L's. and every other studs were sandwiched together 2x4. That would mean all were 3.5x3.5 and that would add great strength. It also appears to me like the roof 2x4 were bird mouth cut and that adds strength.

Anyone agree with what I see?

Scott

 

[aart]

@ScottandSam yes, I see it, now that I've looked much closer(thanks).
Actually looks like all the studs are doubled, one butting against top of 'bottom plate' and one overlapping it.
Just those overlap joints between studs and bottom plate would stiffen any racking or sway considerably.

 

[Merrymouse]

"One I add the HC I will be sister another 2x4 over each stud to essentially make them 4x4 may this will help too? Not sure.
Thanks again[/quote]"

See above. I know it's impossible to read all the posts in this thread as it's getting very long. But you are correct. Once I add the hardware cloth it will be sandwiched between all the studs with an additional 2x4 essentially making it a 4x4 or technically a 3.5x3.5.
The rafters in the model are not bird mouthed. I know I didn't do the rafters exactly like the model I used rafter ties. I'm the model they put up the posts then attached the rafters to the sides of the posts then just tied them together with a 2x4 horizontally. If that makes sense. It's hard to see in the model. But they are not birdmouthed. I'm not sure but I think the way I did it should be stronger then the model. I'll see if I can find a picture. Hold on. And of course thank you for helping me.

 

[Merrymouse]

@ScottandSam

notice rafter attached to sides of posts: I did not do it this way And in this picture they have not put on the HC or the additional 2x4 to sandwich the HC.