The Ameraucana Thread: Where everything and anything about the breed can be discussed (APA, Non-Stan

Has anyone heard anything about Ameraucanas needing lower humidity to get a good hatch rate?

That makes me wonder why it would make a difference... I recently had awful luck with low humidity and have sworn off low humidity hatches in general, but I'm getting Ameraucana eggs (real ones! from a real breeder!) next week and now you've got me wondering.
 
That makes me wonder why it would make a difference... I recently had awful luck with low humidity and have sworn off low humidity hatches in general, but I'm getting Ameraucana eggs (real ones! from a real breeder!) next week and now you've got me wondering.
I'm not sure what to do. I do know that during my last hatch my humidity was around 65-70% during the last three days. (I ran the first 18 dry and averaged around 35%). I only got a 45% hatch rate and that was on my own crossbred eggs. When I did "eggtopsies" a lot of the chicks had drowned and some of them didn't even get into the correct position. All I can attribute that to is an overall temperature that was too low and my humidity was too high the last three days. My air cells all looked the correct size going into lockdown. I also hatched in cartons with the bottoms cut out and I heard that maybe I would have more luck letting them hatch on their sides? When I had an 86% hatch rate the time before my humidity stayed around 55-60% during lockdown. The art of incubation can sure be tricky!

The breeder I purchased these Ameraucana eggs from said to be careful with overdoing the humidity. She has found they hatch better in a dryer environment. I know I need to lower my humidity anyway, but how low? I would ask the breeder you are purchasing eggs from about the percent humidity they use when setting and during lockdown. Then may be we can compare notes and come up with a game plan :).
 
35-45% incubating,,,50-60% in the hatcher works for me

if you are in a humid climate the incubator might just need to run dry to achieve that level

I've only hatched a couple hundred maybe someone with more experience will chime in,,,,,,

I'm thinking those numbers will works for me too. My main problem has been humidity that was too high the last 3 days. Everything looks good until lockdown. I think I will definitely stay at or below 60% during the last 3 days.
 
I got my target #'s from a couple breeders in my area that hatch a few thousand Ameraucana chicks annually

Ah, love your numbers, that's what I'm trying on this hatch. I've decided that anything below 35% is too low, and anything above 65% is too high; better to keep towards the low end of that spectrum for 18 days, then the high end for lockdown. I've got a test batch in for this humidity right now so we'll see what their rate is and go from there.
 
Thats really interesting. I didn't know that most Ameraucanas were recessive white. How come leakage is mainly seen in males and not in hens?
What I should have said is most white ameraucanas are recessive white.There are some dominate whites.I have a start on these.Leakage is another issue.Mostly seen in the black based colors.That is black,blue and lavender.Sex feathers are the hardest to turn black.Leakage is considered by some to be from not enough genetic melanizers.Some say a little red leakage once in a while helps keep that beetle green sheen in the feathers.
 
What I should have said is most white ameraucanas are recessive white.There are some dominate whites.I have a start on these.Leakage is another issue.Mostly seen in the black based colors.That is black,blue and lavender.Sex feathers are the hardest to turn black.Leakage is considered by some to be from not enough genetic melanizers.Some say a little red leakage once in a while helps keep that beetle green sheen in the feathers.

But I'm guessing that the gold leakage is not useful in any way?
 
I was hoping someone could help me with a Wheaten question. My LF wheaten hens are much smaller than my other colored hens. But my Wheaten roo is HUGE compared to my Lavenders. Is this typical?

Given the lack of dedicated, committed breeders to the WBS variety, I doubt anyone can say what "typical" is. Just look at the ABC Breeders list and see how few LF WBS breeders there are.

Most of my W and BW hens run a little on the small side of the SOP but I recently talked with another WBS breeder and his birds - cocks and hens - are running heavier than the SOP. I do believe the WBS birds take much longer than many breeds to fully mature. My birds don't actually mature fully until they're about 2 years old.

And the Lavenders? They aren't even approved yet and I'm not even sure there are 5 breeders who've been breeding for 5 years. Several years ago, I thought about helping out with the Lav's and getting them approved. I didn't keep them but one year, so again I can't really speak to what is "typical", but the Lav cockerel I had was smaller than my W or BWs.

God Bless,

Royce
 

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