Thinking about butchering for the first time.

Of the 20 healthy chicks from my most recent hatch, looks like I only have 8 female. :( And they all look a bit different since they're mixed breed. I've been warning my kids, don't get attached! We'll see how that goes... They better be tasty, cause there's a lot of them!
Only 8 female out of 20? That's some poor luck (if you were in it for layers). Do you know what some of the breeds are in the mix? I'm just curious to see how they compare to my upcoming batch.
 
No way were they selling you layer when you asked for chick feed! That is totally irresponsible of them! If that were me, I wouldn't be going back there. What you want to ask for is all-flock or flock raiser feed. A good example is Purina Flockraiser. That is a feed mixed for hens, roosters, ducks and geese, as well as for turkeys, pheasants and quail 8 weeks of age and older. The laying hens eat calcium separately (you'd provide a bin of oyster shell for them to eat free choice).
I'll look for that brand on my quest for new chicken food!
I was very frustrated when I discovered they were giving me layer crumbles. I also bought chicks from them last year and the chicks were all labels as "Ameraucanas". I even asked if that's what they all were and they assured me that was the case. They boxed up the 6 chicks as I asked and when I got to the car I looked and saw one had feathered legs (not an Ameraucana trait lol). They were all adorable and I didn't have my heart set on Ameraucanas so I just went with it. Turns out I got 2 Easter Eggers, 2 Cochins, and a Ancona out of the bunch (no idea what the 6th was, it died soon after I got it). I only have an EE and a Cochin left, the rest died (mostly from unknown causes). I don't plan on buying from them again 😒
 
Only 8 female out of 20? That's some poor luck (if you were in it for layers). Do you know what some of the breeds are in the mix? I'm just curious to see how they compare to my upcoming batch.
Yea, I was totally in it for the layers, and was hoping for 50%, not 35%. I crossed my Production Red rooster (I swear that bird is over 10 lbs and he's not quite a year yet) with some Prairie Bluebells (small bodied, high feed to egg conversion ratio and 5-6 eggs a week) and some Starlight Green Eggers (small bodied, 6-7 eggs/wk). Only got one, maybe 2 females from the SGEs (only one of which could lay green or blue), the rest of the chicks are from the PBBs. I wanted some larger size roosters for processing (since I'll be having roosters anyway might as well have large ones) and hens that would lay colored eggs (blue or green) most days of the week. The PBBs have the zinc white gene, so colored eggers are possible. We'll see how they grow out...
 
Yea, I was totally in it for the layers, and was hoping for 50%, not 35%. I crossed my Production Red rooster (I swear that bird is over 10 lbs and he's not quite a year yet) with some Prairie Bluebells (small bodied, high feed to egg conversion ratio and 5-6 eggs a week) and some Starlight Green Eggers (small bodied, 6-7 eggs/wk). Only got one, maybe 2 females from the SGEs (only one of which could lay green or blue), the rest of the chicks are from the PBBs. I wanted some larger size roosters for processing (since I'll be having roosters anyway might as well have large ones) and hens that would lay colored eggs (blue or green) most days of the week. The PBBs have the zinc white gene, so colored eggers are possible. We'll see how they grow out...
My mixes will be some Production Red Orpington crosses, in the past they've gotten fairly big. For the first few years of hatching chicks I had 100% roosters, which was discouraging lol. Hopefully if you do it again you'll have a better ratio! Or maybe you'll come to like raising your own meat birds (I'm hoping I do, since it would make hatching chickens myself more sustainable).
 
I butcher mine at 15 to 22 weeks, and they are perfect for roasting.
I use the broomstick method, and in a way there is two ways of doing it; you can pull the head off altogether, or keep the head on.
To start with, try to pull the head off, which isn't the 'proper' way to do it, but I found it very hard to tell just how I hard I had to pull, and at least if you pull to hard, there is no way the bird will suffer.
Once I got some practice is, it became easy enough to pull the right amount to keep it on, and the advantage of that is it is a lot less messy, because the bleed out (and the do bleed out very well) is contained in the skin.

Just thought I would give you an idea of the method, no need to use it if you don't want to!
 
I butcher mine at 15 to 22 weeks, and they are perfect for roasting.
I use the broomstick method, and in a way there is two ways of doing it; you can pull the head off altogether, or keep the head on.
To start with, try to pull the head off, which isn't the 'proper' way to do it, but I found it very hard to tell just how I hard I had to pull, and at least if you pull to hard, there is no way the bird will suffer.
Once I got some practice is, it became easy enough to pull the right amount to keep it on, and the advantage of that is it is a lot less messy, because the bleed out (and the do bleed out very well) is contained in the skin.

Just thought I would give you an idea of the method, no need to use it if you don't want to!
I really appreciate this information!
Like they say, there is no such thing as an over kill. I just don't want my chickens to feel anything (or as little as possible).
 
I have an assortment of chickens, mostly duel purpose breeds (predominately Orpintons or Orpington mixes). I've hatched out a few roosters in the past but never ended up butchering. The first two became pets but had deformities that decreased life quality, we ended up shooting them and not using the meat (one was only a few weeks old anyway). The second two we rehomed.
I am not opposed to butchering the roosters, but it seems daunting. Shooting a bird is one thing (less up close and personal) but using an axe or slitting the throat is another. I don't know if I could bring myself to do it. Any suggestions to make it easier?
I also have a question about the age to butcher, my birds always grow really slow and only reach a decent size at around 6-8 months. Is this normal or am I doing something wrong? They are being fed on layer pellets, would grower pellets help considerably? I don't want them to grow so fast they suffer as a result, but I assume that's more about breed than feed.
One last thing, I've always heard that homegrown chickens are for the soup pot only. Is this true? Chicken meat from the store can be used in so many ways, is this even possible with chickens butchered yourself (duel-purpose specifically)?
Part of maintaining a long term flock includes possibly having to butcher the chicken. We have eaten roosters, and hens. Home grown chickens are very delicious. Ask my 7 year old. But not everyone can handle the process either. I can cut up a chicken and use it anyway a store bought chicken can be used and several more ways than anything in a grocery store.
Size can matter if you are feeding multiple people on one chicken.
meat chickens only require grower bird feed. They do not require layer feed. Layer feed is higher in calcium. Meat birds need protein and calories without the calcium. It doesn’t matter about gender if you are raising chickens for meat. Butcher at about a year or year and half for heritage breeds, and 8 weeks for CornishX meat birds. Meat chickens are very different than egg layers. The meat birds in the USA are almost 100% genetically modified chicken.
 
The meat birds in the USA are almost 100% genetically modified chicken.
Genetically modified has a specific definition that involves adding genes in a lab.
Hybrid is through breeding, including artificial insemination of semen produced by a live male rooster. Broilers are hybrids that don't breed true.
 
The meat birds in the USA are almost 100% genetically modified chicken.
The only genetic modification the meat birds across the world get is selective breeding. The same thing that was used to create any breed (whether bantam of full sized), the same way championship show chicken lines are developed and maintained. What selective breeding means is that somebody decides which chickens get to breed. Nothing more complicated than that. There is no gene manipulation or anything like that. Unfortunately the idea that meat chickens are created in the laboratory is way too common but it is just wrong.

I just don't want my chickens to feel anything (or as little as possible).
The "best" way to kill a chicken when butchering can be different for each of us. To me the best way is the way you can. You don't want to close your eyes or flinch at the wrong time, you could hurt yourself or only injure the chicken so it suffers. There are many different techniques you can use and there are usually details with any of them that can make a difference.

Probably the most common on this forum for first timers is the killing cone. You hang a funnel with the small part down. The chicken goes in with its head sticking out. Then you either slit the throat or take the head off using different tools. The broomstick method is used. I use the hatchet and stump method to chop the head off but I grew up swinging an axe, hammer, and hatchet. I'm confident in my ability to hit the target and have enough physical strength to do the job. There are details with this that cam make it easier but I certainly don't recommend this method for everybody. Some people shoot the bird in the head. Others can break the neck with their bare hands. I don't know which would be best for you but I consider all of them humane if done correctly.

Of the 20 healthy chicks from my most recent hatch, looks like I only have 8 female.
A 60% - 40% split. I don't consider that bad. It's just odds. My first hatch of the year is typically around 20 chicks. After that I use broody hens so the hatches are smaller. It's more common for my hatches to be 2/3 or 3/4 of one sex than 60% or less. And it can be either sex. If I keep track of all the hatches over a two or three year period the average is right at 50%, that's with about 45 chicks hatched each year. It can be really frustrating.

I also have a question about the age to butcher, my birds always grow really slow and only reach a decent size at around 6-8 months.
That sounds typical for dual purpose chickens. For their own reasons different people butcher at different ages. The Cornish X are bred and fed to be butchered at 6 to 8 weeks of age. The Rangers are bred to be butchered around 12 weeks. Most dual purpose cockerels don't have much meat at all until they are around 16 weeks old and end their growth spurt at around 24 weeks. They will continue to grow after that but the growth rate slows way down.

I don't want them to grow so fast they suffer as a result, but I assume that's more about breed than feed.
Yes, that's more breed than feed though feed is a huge topic of its own. I'll try to be brief but probably won't. Layer, Grower, and Starter are marketing names. They really don't give you a lot of detail but with the national brands they do follow function. Sounds like your local mill doesn't, which is a shame. The main difference in these feeds is percent calcium and percent protein. Layer should have about 4% calcium, everything else around 1% calcium. That's simple. Chicken Starter typically has around 18% to 20% protein to help get the chicks off to a good start. Grower and Layer typically have less protein, typically around 16% to 18%. With the national brands that information is on the label. You have other feeds like Flock Raiser or All-Flock types that are low calcium but around 20% protein. You have meat bird feed and game bird feed with low calcium and even higher protein. All kinds of options. People have different opinions about which are best, sometimes strong opinions.

The more protein they eat the bigger they will get, at least to a point. Since my flock is for laying and breeding as well as meat I don't overdo it. I feed mine a 16% protein low calcium feed with oyster shell on the side for the ones that are laying eggs. I don't think raising them for meat is the main focus of your flock. If you can find a low calcium feed with a protein level of between 16% and 20% you will be fine, whatever it is called.

One last thing, I've always heard that homegrown chickens are for the soup pot only. Is this true?
No, not really. The older the chicken gets the more flavor and texture the meat has. When the boys hit puberty the hormones accelerate that process. The girls do it too but at a much slower rate. If all you are used to is the grocery store chicken that is butchered at 6 to 8 weeks then you may not like either flavor or texture of home grown chickens but some of us prefer that.

The age and thus texture has a lot to do with how you cook it. Typically the older the chicken the slower you cook it and it needs to be moist. Of course there is an exception, there always is. A pressure cooker does not need to be slow and they will give you tender meat. Marinating can affect the texture too. The French developed Coq au Vin to turn an old tough rooster into a gourmet meal, part of that process is the marinade. Chicken and dumplings is how a farmwife can turn an old tough hen into comfort food and really stretch the meat to feed a lot of people. There is nothing wrong with soup. Older chickens make tremendous broth. I like to bake mine. If someone tells you that you can't eat older chickens they just don't know how to cook it.
 
I am not opposed to butchering the roosters, but it seems daunting. Shooting a bird is one thing (less up close and personal) but using an axe or slitting the throat is another. I don't know if I could bring myself to do it. Any suggestions to make it easier?
I use killing cones with a large single-action PVC cutter. It's gruesome, that's unavoidable whichever method you choose, but to me it's the fastest, most humane, and most error-free method I could find. You can't miss the mark or do it incorrectly. Just hold the bird's beak in one hand, slip the cutters around the bird's neck with the other hand, and squeeze hard and fast. And it's over just like that.
Lots of folks swear by the "broomstick method". I haven't tried that, so I don't know. It's bloodless, and they say death is certain and quick, so it's one I would consider.

The only other thing I can think of to make it easier than these, is to have someone else do it. You could also take them to a local meat processing facility, where people take their cows, pigs and deer to be processed. Most of them will slaughter chickens too. And they'll butcher and package them for you as well. You'll have to call well ahead of time (months, even) to reserve a date.

I also have a question about the age to butcher, my birds always grow really slow and only reach a decent size at around 6-8 months. Is this normal or am I doing something wrong?
It's normal for the Orpington breed. There are other breeds that grow out faster, so they're more economical with the cost of feed. However, most sources agree that the best age to slaughter chickens is around 16-17 weeks, before they are sexually mature. At that age, the meat is still tender. Once hormones are involved, it gets tougher and stringier. With your Orpingtons, you could probably hold off a couple of weeks longer.

"Decent size" like those you find in the grocery store are from a specific breed called CornishX or Cornish-Cross, which grow out to butcher size within 8-10 weeks. Backyard flocks of Heritage breeds typically don't reach that size by 16 weeks, unless you're growing meat-only breeds.

More on that below.

They are being fed on layer pellets, would grower pellets help considerably? I don't want them to grow so fast they suffer as a result, but I assume that's more about breed than feed.
Growing chickens that are not yet laying, and roosters, should NOT be eating layer feed. It has far too much calcium and can cause organ failure, particularly liver and kidneys. There are better options for a mixed flock, like an "all-flock" feed, chick starter, or game-bird type feeds. And then you offer a dish of oyster shell on the side for the added calcium - your hens will eat the oyster shell as needed, chicks and roosters will ignore it. They know what they're doing.

One last thing, I've always heard that homegrown chickens are for the soup pot only. Is this true?
Not true at all, *IF* you slaughter them before sexual maturity. OLDER birds are for the soup pot only, as their meat has become tough and stringy. I tried frying one once, and couldn't even bite into it. Like shoe leather. Had to throw it away, such a waste. I got myself educated. Now, I always slaughter my cockerels at 16-17 weeks, they're decent size (to me), then I brine them for 3-4 days for extra tenderizing before packing and freezing. Always tender, juicy, flavorful whether fried, baked, grilled or roasted. The flavor IS slightly different than commercially-grown chickens. It's more, well, flavorful and has a little bit more body to the bite - I think that's due partly to genetics, but also because we don't keep chickens crowded into small cages who never see the light of day and muscles are never exercised.

Chicken meat from the store can be used in so many ways, is this even possible with chickens butchered yourself (duel-purpose specifically)?
See my answer above. My breeds (mixed) are all dual-purpose: Rhode Island Reds (RIR), Barred Plymouth Rock (BPR), Black Australorps (a type of Orpington), Easter Eggers (EE), and a few others from rescues. I butcher and cook them all. Fried, baked, grilled, roasted, barbequed, smoked, breast tenders, buffalo wings, chicken salad, chicken and noodles, chicken strips or nuggets, gizzards and livers (yum!), enchiladas, whatever! Delicious.
 

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