To Worm or Not? And, Piperazine dosage for bantams?

Thanks, Threehorses! Keeping things dry here is NO problem! We live in a desert, and if that doesn't make it dry enough, we're in a drought (3 yrs now!). But, if I can get the 2-in-1 paste, then I will use it. If I use the Wazine first (which I will!) and use the Ivermetcin/pyrantel second, do I need to use do a third round for the tapeworm?
 
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I usually say you shouldn't need a third round, but just keep an eye out for the segments in droppings, or things that look like grains of rice in the bedding/ground area. That's not a sure way of telling, but if you see them - then at least you know there are still tapes.

I just had a friend who wormed for tapes and still a little longer than usual, more tapes were passing. so it's not unheard of. They're historically and notoriously difficult to be rid of because really it's more about removing the source than the worms themselves.
 
I am glad I searched out this thread - I also have need of some worming advice.

I did a postmortem on a hen tonight who died, and I discovered threadlike worms in her intestines. I think they must be either roundworms or capillary worms since they are visible. I have some .08 % Ivermectin Sheep & Goat drench. Can I use this as a topical on the back of the neck or should it be given orally (3 - 7 drops depending on size)? Or is it possible to put in the drinking water? That would be the easiest, laborwise (I have about 50 chickens to treat). But I want to make sure it works. Thank you so much.
 
Alrighty, I have another question. I wormed all 30 with wazine last Saturday. Absolutely NO worms anywhere. Do I need to treat again in two weeks? I know that wazine treats only roundworms, but if they are the most common and no one has symptoms, can I probably good to go?
 
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Actually Wazine is designed to be repeated - because it only treats roundworms (and a couple of other species), and only adults. Instead of repeating over and over with Wazine, I usually recommend doing a followup treatment with Fenbendazole (SafeGuard), or another broad spectrum wormer like Ivermectin (paste, for horses, with Pyrantel for tapes). That way you get not only the larvae that have since become adults, the other species (including gapeworms), and larvae AND adults.

It's a good move to do Wazine first because it's a limited spectrum wormer but effective against the most common worm, roundworms. You don't want to cause the bird too much stress by so many paralyzed worms leaving its body, but you DO want to kill a good number of them - all the adults you can, which is why piperazine (wazine) is great for that.
 
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Drenches must be used as drenches. You can really only use the pour-on as a drop-on. As far as orally, really poultry systems are different from sheep (whose stomach contents stay there for a while), some poultry pushing through anything eaten (much less liquids) in 6 hours sometimes. That's not a long enough period to effectively expect ivermectin to work in a liquid form orally. People do it, but I'm not sure they understand what's going on. That's why pastes are recommended orally, or something in a food can sometimes be used. Or you can use a slowing device (injectable propylene glycol, orally) to have the ivermectin slow through the system.

Personally I just use pour-on cattle ivermectin if I use ivermectin, or the horse paste (preferably with pyrantel now that they're commonly available). But you can try the drench orally and repeat it in 3 weeks. What's the dosage per 100 pounds of weight for the drench?

Laborwise,
 
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Actually Wazine is designed to be repeated - because it only treats roundworms (and a couple of other species), and only adults. Instead of repeating over and over with Wazine, I usually recommend doing a followup treatment with Fenbendazole (SafeGuard), or another broad spectrum wormer like Ivermectin (paste, for horses, with Pyrantel for tapes). That way you get not only the larvae that have since become adults, the other species (including gapeworms), and larvae AND adults.

It's a good move to do Wazine first because it's a limited spectrum wormer but effective against the most common worm, roundworms. You don't want to cause the bird too much stress by so many paralyzed worms leaving its body, but you DO want to kill a good number of them - all the adults you can, which is why piperazine (wazine) is great for that.

But, if no worms are pooped out after treatment, then they are worm-free right?
 
I would like to medicate my girls as a preventitive measure, much like I treat my dogs for worms. We live in North Carolina and have Buff Orps if that matters. Never gets cold enough to kill everything off.. Is there something I can use that doesn't have a withdrawl period. 14 days is a long time for us egg lovers.

Fair Winds,

Bill
 
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Well if you do it planned, preventatively, the best thing to do is to do it after the molt, before they lay. Any wormer that you use that has no withdrawal usually also doesn't kill larvae, so they're meant to be repeated. Keep that in mind. I think it's worth 10-14 days twice a year to do a really thorough worming (something like fenbendazole for example, or ivermectin w/pyrantel) and just try to aim for a no-eggs, no molt time. Oddly flubendazole, a very close cousin of fenbendazole, is marketed as "no withdrawal" in England while fenbendazole is said to have a withdrawal time in the U.S.

Also, there's a Rooster-Booster worming product that has no withdrawal. Again probably not the most effective, but certainly good enough for prevention (if you don't have turkeys).
 
My Girls about a year old and I havent experienced them molting yet. Ive only had them about 3 months and have gotten them quite plump. They have been laying since I got them, but have slowed down due to the season. When do they typically Molt? Ive noticed quite a few feathers in the run. They look and feel really fluffy due to the cold weather we have.

Fair Winds,

Bill
 

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