What Electric Fence to get for Chicken Tractor (Movable Coop)?

I use this controller for my movable hoop coop - zarbeba

It does not require a ground. However, you will have to use an extension cord. It has been protecting my chickens for about two months. The only problem with it is that if any blades of grass touch the wire it does not work. Mine is mounted too low in some places. But for $30 it is worth a try.
 
I use electric fencing around my property for the goats (Gallagher energizers are the only kind I like. Mine is 12 volt and the battery needs charging about once a month).

I don't use anything around my tractors for my meat birds, and have never lost a bird to a predator. Just do a good job building the tractor.

Bob
 
I just posted to the 'everything else chicken' category to ask if I can use ordinary electric fence chargers with electric net fence for chickens. Sounds like the answer is yes.

I've used two different chargers to keep deer, bear, and dogs out of our garden in SW Oregon. I agree about having three 8' ground rods. Even in Oregon good grounding is essential. During the summer I've watched our cats walk under the lower wire without shock.

Also. if you plan to mount the charger somewhat distant from the actual fencing. ordinary electric extension cord wire is insufficient. Although fence charger amperage is low. the voltage is very high. It will easily jump through the insulation of extension cord wire. I use automobile ignition wire to extend the charged wire around gates and buildings. If you have to use ordinary wire, try putting in inside half inch black plastic water pipe, but don't let it get wet inside.
 
OK guys I have a decent size (100ac) horse ranch and use electric fencing. Been using electric for most my life. You DO NOT NEED cable the gauge and with the insulation of a car battery cable. I use one very large charger that will cover a 50 mile range (http://www.horse.com/Horse-Fencing/Fence-Chargers/Parmak-Super-Energizer-4-Fencer-BXF25.html). To run the power to my different pastures all I use is 17gauge insulated copper wire. You can buy a spool of it pretty cheap from HomeDepot etc. The charger I use is pushing 15,500 volts through it (verified with multi-meter at end points). I can touch the extension wire with the standard insulation and NOT get zapped. It does NOT go through the insulation.

3 Ground rods will not be required if you are just doing a 4x8 pen that you move often. We take a portable electric fencing system with us on over night trail rides to set up over night corals for the horses. We use the 3' steel ground rod that has a T top to move it easy and it provides enough grounding to deliver a very decent shock to the horses in a coral that is 20'X40'. This is all you need for a system that you are going to be moving often. We use Zareba Yellow Jacket charger for the portable fences. Great easy to uses. Uses standard D cell batteries. http://www.horse.com/Horse-Fencing/Fence-Chargers/Zareba-Yellow-Jacket-Fencer-BXA20.html it only $75. For a more perm solution I would advise using a 3 rod system. The deeper you can plant them the better. That is why people recommend 6-8' copper rods.

I ran a electric line around the base of my chicken pen. I have 6" offset insulators all along the base at about 4" above the ground and another row along the top. It is connected to my perm horse charger just like all my pastures. Works great. With the charger I use it delivers one hell of a jolt. You can hear when the coyotes or foxes hit that sucker.


EDIT: I forgot to mention for the hot wire itself on the fence I prefer aluminum 14gauge or 17gauge wire. Do not use any of the poly braid or tape solutions for predator control. Only use wire.
 
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I have a zareba brand 3 mile solar charger from Tractor supply company.I think it was about 90 dollars It works great. I use the light weight nylon wire because it is easier to stretch ,and handle.If you put it close to the groung and any predator touches it,they WONT stick around to dig under,and likely wont come near it again. If you are going to put it on a chicken tractor ,you will have to address the ground rod issue. I would drive a ground rod ,and use an old extension cord or some similar coated wire,just about any kind of insulated wire will work for the ground. just use something long enough to reach the farthest point that you will be moving your tractor. I have lost alot of chickens to predators ,but never when protected with electric fence. Someone else mentioned PARMAK chargers,they are a very good charger,but rather expensive.
 
The ground wire does not need to be insulated. Just the wire with the live current except for where you want it to be exposed to provide the shock. And Paramark IMHO does make the best charger. As I showed in the link that is what I use for my main charger. But the little Yellow jacket works great for a portable solution. I have even seen some people mount it to the ground rod.
 
I just got a Zareba 3-mile solar fence controller as a gift. Our chickens are penned in with two lengths of 42" high PoultryNet and I would like to hook the solar controller to that. Has anyone tried using a solar controller with PoultryNet? I am uncertain if the 3-mile controller puts out enough juice.
 
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Thanks for this -- very useful.

I'm thinking of using electro-net to keep in colored range broilers in a rotational grazing system next year. Do you mean that I'll need to put a wire outside the poly braid net in order to effectively deter predators?
 
You should be able to do what I did if you are comfortable doing it.

I and my hot wires on the outside of the fence perimeter. Most places that sell the fencers will sell about 10 different times of them, just keep the hot wire off the fence itself. I then ran the fence itself as the ground. That covers the jumping animals that will climb the fence to get to the top. I run hot wires at 6" 12" and 24" from the ground and 12" from the top.

I use the battery powered charger and the battery can run for 10-14 days without a problem. Usually charge it weekly. They are alot cheaper if you can do it that way.

My chickens have gotten 5000+ volt shocks. The cackle and run away, but the usually don't do it again.
 

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