What is the best bedding for coops?

Sand is very popular in a lot of areas but I won't use it here. I guess it's very absorbent for the area under the waterer and for absorbing the liquids in the chicken poop, but it packs into a surface that's hard a a rock when the moisture in it freezes. It's also not very warm for them to sit on in the winter and it does not make for a soft landing for the chickens when they fly down then like it does in summer. I don't know about other litters putting out heat - but I do know in the summer my chickens hollow out little spots and lay in them with their wings extended out of the hole on either side of their bodies to cool off, and in the winter they'll hollow out places and snuggle down into them, wings and all, sometimes with nothing showing but their heads, and they are content. Put my hand in one of those little hollows one time when Agatha got up - nice, toasty warm little spot she had there!

I use anything I can get my hands on. You are in Ohio, I see, so it's about that time of year when the leaves will start falling. Grab 'em! Save 'em! Get some from your neighbors! And use 'em!! Dried leaves, lawn clippings (not a lot of those because it's a "green" addition to the litter) weeds and spent plants from the garden, dropped pine needles, a handful of pine shavings scattered, maybe some chopped straw....just about anything goes into the litter here, with dried leaves becoming my hands-down favorite. I think it's the chickens' favorite too, because boy do they go to town shredding them down! The little twigs in with the raked up leaves make good air spaces in the litter, because it needs air to compost. I also skipped the linoleum or anything like that on the floor, starting my litter on the bare ground where all the little helpful organisms live. Folks do deep litter successfully with lots of different substrates, but I prefer what's already there. I brood my chicks outdoors, so in their outdoor brooder pen I use straw for it's insulating properties. When brooding season is done, I take down the brooder and rake all that straw right out into the run.

I don't use DE either. To me it's overrated as the end all be all. The dust is dangerous enough for us, so I can't imagine my chickens scratching around in it and inhaling it all the time at their level. Besides that, it kills the little soft bodied insects that are so beneficial to getting a good deep litter started.

If you are going to have mites in your coop and run, you are going to have them. They are insidious little critters - total opportunists - and can show up in even the most fastidiously maintained setups. I"m sure a lot of folks will come back and say that in a properly managed chicken area you'll never have them, but mites come from many sources and can set up house in the tiniest of nooks, crannys, and live there quite happily until you take action. I have learned to spray my coop and run area with Neem Oil, following package directions, with the addition of just a touch of dish washing liquid to make it easier to work with. I do that a couple of times a year, since I don't often have to clean my coop and run, and on those rare occasions when I do an almost total clean out, I hit everything really good then. I pay special attention to the areas where any wood joins, like where the roosts sit on the cleats, underside of the roosts, and all along the edges where the wood meets the dirt floor. Window sills...anything wood gets a good dose. It's harmless to the chickens, and you can use it as often as you need to keep mites under control. I also hit the nests and when I take out the old nesting material to add new I hit the wall behind the nests as well. Sounds like it takes more time than it does.....and takes a lot less time than getting a total infestation and having to do the whole 9 yards of totally gutting the coop, removing every scrap of litter, spraying everything down, dusting the every bird with a two week interval before you have to do the same thing over again. Remember that a healthy bird can withstand a few mites, and if you are already pro-active they might get in but they usually don't become an overnight infestation. Weather is also a factor to consider with mites - some mites don't die off during long cold winters so you still have to keep an eye on things. I had a total, awful infestation once - and after fighting it for months and feeling like I was losing, things began to turn around. Now I spend my time taking precautions rather than getting into another full scale battle!

I am so grateful to folks like @Beekissed and so many others who held my hand during the learning process! But ultimately the decision on what to use is entirely yours. We can tell you of our experiences, what we've liked and what we haven't, but you are there and we ain't.
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You know what your budget will allow (my budget is hopeless so I prefer to take "free and available" whenever possible!) what your space allows, how much time you can spend out there, and what your idea of "clean" is. Around here, if it doesn't stink and my birds are healthy, I'm on a roll!! Good luck!
 
As well as the disinfectant, I would suggest spraying down with diluted white vinegar. When dry, dust with diatomaceous earth to keep the mites and bugs at bay. I do all this as well every 3 months or so.
 
FYI I read up that Pine shavings absorb the nitrogen from the chicken coop so it makes the poop less effective for composting i used my chicken this spring and found this to be true
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The reason wood chips alone are bad in deep liter is not because they absorb the nitrogen, it's because they decay and break down very slowly not releasing their own carbon fast enough that is needed for the composting... This is why it's pretty much essential to add in other carbon forms like weeds, leaves or grass clippings that decay much faster and provide the necessary amounts of carbon for the composting process... That isn't to say wood chips are bad, it's just that they alone don't break down fast enough to supply the necessary carbon all the time to keep up, they still provide carbon, they hold moisture and they prevent compacting, so they certainly do benefit a deep litter but they can't be the only source of carbon if you want the litter to function properly...

I started my deep litter with about 50/50 straw and wood chips, then added leaves and grass clippings as they became available... I also feed my birds A LOT of day old produce I get from a local grocery store for free, anything they don't eat simply gets dumped out on the ground and becomes part of the litter... And this year with the constant 90°F + weather a lot of the produce ends up wilting and becoming litter...

It works very well for me...
 
I had this same question not too long ago. After many helpful suggestions, I ended up doing a combo of two things. I LOVE the sweet PDZ but I also use some large pine shavings. It's working great for me.

Personally I think where you live plays a part in your decision. I'm told that pine shavings "warm" the coop, so that's not good in Texas. In the winter, I will use that method but never in the summer. Just something to consider when making your decision.
 
I had this same question not too long ago. After many helpful suggestions, I ended up doing a combo of two things. I LOVE the sweet PDZ but I also use some large pine shavings. It's working great for me.

Personally I think where you live plays a part in your decision. I'm told that pine shavings "warm" the coop, so that's not good in Texas. In the winter, I will use that method but never in the summer. Just something to consider when making your decision.


I live in Texas & I've used DL for 3 yrs now. I LOVE it!! In the summer, I just don't make it that deep. I clean my coops out early spring, and just put in leaves & such as needed, but not deep. Come fall, I pile all the leaves I can in my coops. I put at least ten 6 cu ft wheel barrows full, then add more through out the winter. Works wonderful!



You have to decide what you would like to try and see if it works. Everyone does it a little different. No one way is wrong or right. You have to do what works best for you.
 
Some mentioned the use of vanilla car freshener. The use of fresheners concern me as they are man made fragrances that can be toxic. I do use essential oils as they are natural. I make my laundry soap and softeners using essential oils as well.
 
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We use paper from the shredders at work. Rather than sending them to the dump, I use them for bedding and nesting material.. Not only is it free, it makes cleaning the coop easy and the waste goes into the compost pile where the earthworms do their thing and we benefit in the garden from the free compost. Another benefit is the chickens don't knock it out of the nest boxes like they used to when we used straw, as they do not see any seed so they don't dig.
 
I'm learning by reading what you all say. I have some questions. Background: we have a lovely Amish made coop for around 15 birds. This past winter we had four hens. We currently have eleven with 4 yet to be introduced. Our chickens "free range" with a large fenced lot...can't say pasture as there is no grass
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. Goal is to section off part so it can grow and then rotate.

Last winter we used straw on the floor of the coop. This summer i switched to shavings as it seemed easier to clean. But I seemed to waste a lot of shavings when trying to clean out the poop. Obviously it is easier to clean in summer then in winter. So in the winter do I just add new bedding over the dirty? I'm not sure that I understand deep litter concept
 
So in the winter do I just add new bedding over the dirty? I'm not sure that I understand deep litter concept


No deep litter is not simply just covering up the dirty litter, there has to be a depth of litter to start with so that it never gets dirty to start with as the composting keep up with the poop from day one... There are factors that come into play with birds per space for deep litter to work, if your poop is 'caking' or building up you have too many birds for deep litter to work, in reality you should never see poop in a deep litter coop, just composting soil... My deep litter in my coop is a minimum of 12" up to 18" when I add new stuff to the mix or when the birds fluff it up, this fluffing up is important like all compost piles it needs to be turned over regularly... If all goes well the birds turn it over for you as they scratch around...

There is deep bedding where you put A LOT of wood chips in and in theory they wick all the moisture out of the poop as soon as it hits the bedding causing it to powder and not smell... This still requires cleaning though as it will get to a point of saturation...

Notice the consistency of my deep litter coop bedding, there is no smell beyond that hint of earth/compost and notice no clumping or visible 'poops'... This doesn't happen overnight, my deep litter is almost 2 years established... Also I still have a 'poop' tarp under my roost, because if not there would simply be too much poop in that location for the litter to work properly, I drag this off and clean it regularly...

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I am with Gonehencrazy. I love the concept of the deep litter method. But, I just don't really understand how to get it started. Is there a better time of year to start (winter/summer)? We have 4 adult hens and 11 young ones to be added soon. In the process of building new coop 8x8. I plan on having a poop catch under the roost. Is 15 hens too many to do the deep litter method?

I have read and read so many things regarding the bedding until my head seems it will explode! Just when I think I have made up my mind on sand, or straw, or shavings I read something negative.

I am using straw in the adult temp. housing and pine shavings in the young ones still. Seems that the pine shaving does a better job of absorbing liquid.

The two young roosters (that were supposed to be hens) will be in a divided small coop/run of their own and I plan on using pine shavings in it.

Is there a good article or place to go to that really explains how to get started with the deep litter method that a newbie can understand?

MeepBeep your photos are great by the way.
 

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