What is the ideal humidity for hatching in an incubator?

[Ozarko]

It's a built-in digital humidity meter. I am supposing that it is accurate.

 

[Ozarko]

There's a small plug I could open. PD-Riverman is right that it is surface area that counts for humidity level. I had read that in the documentation for the incubator, but was concerned that after following their instructions, the humidity level was so high. I didn't know if just opening it a bit for a short time might let out some of the humidity in the inside are or not. I know that would also let out heat and that is not good either.

 

[casportpony]

Buy something like this:

http://www.amazon.com/Digital-Thermometer-Hygrometer-Memory-Remote/dp/B004XNMHW4

-Kathy

 

[MrsBachbach]

It's a built-in digital humidity meter. I am supposing that it is accurate.

I have the same type. I've used it for a couple of years now and found the readings they give are not accurate. In fact I found that it reads humidity about 10% lower than humidity actually is. It reads temperature about a degree or more higher than it actually is(at least near the top of the eggs). I knew about the temp readings being inaccurate because I had a brinsea spot check thermometer and have been using that to adjust the temperature. I broke down and bought a humidity reader this year and found my humidity off too. Well, that would explain my poor hatches.
I'm not sure exactly what kind of tray you have in the bottom of your hovabator (because I've seen two types), but if it's reading 63% and it's acutally close to 70%, then I would cover half of your water surface. I use foil to cover. Or chose a smaller area water reservoir. Then for the lockdown period, remove the foil and you ought to be close to the humidity you need.

 

[frw1985]

Look how most incubators with a fan are in the center and the top of the incubator. This circulates the air down and back up. That is why your humidity is lower on the bottom and higher in the top. Your humidity(water) is on the lower level!
I would move the fan to the top center next hatch and see if that takes care of the circulation. Also try moving your portable thermometers around to check for hot spots or cold spots.
I have built incubators , hatchers brooders etc and also been hatching for over thirty plus years. If your humidity is 40-60 you are probably ok. And depending on the humidity in your area and the air sac space on the egg will let you know if you need to raise the humidity, I use to just mist them a couple of days before hatch. I always had good hatches.
Remember those who are raising larger heritage breeds the larger the bird the lower the fertility. Same for the smaller bantams.
We raised jumbo pharaoh quail for years and we were pleased with an 80 percent hatch. But I could hatch my chicken or bantam eggs in with the quail and I would get almost a hundred percent every time.
It is like several I have said make adjustments for your area take notes if you have problems try something different. You will have to investigate the eggs that did not hatch to be able to make the determination as to what you need to change.
Yew are of the explosions. It doent like to wash off. Hazmat mask would be best!

 

[frw1985]

I used a hygrotherm controller and a table top humidifier ( ultrasonic type) I piped the humidity into the incubator put the hygrometer probe inside the incubator and made an automatic humidity controller. The humidifier plugs into the hygrometer. Then it cuts off and on when needed, It cost about 85.00 bucks total, but is portable to any incubator whether it be my small one that will hatch 48 or the Large GQF cabinet style that hatches upward to 200 chicken.eggs. The humidifier is adjustable as to how mucky puts outl
It works great my hatches improved greatly.
i was at a friends visiting and they had gotten a pet lizard and she was showing me the humidity controller and humidifier. I was to take care of it the week they were leaving on vacation! Unfortunately I dont care for reptiles.
The whole time I was thinking egg incubation, A light bulb went off in my brain,
Instant automatic humidifier.
You don't have the highs and lows like you do when you are trying to add the right amount of water to the bottom of the incubator. To achieve the right amount of humidity.I think the consistancy helps also.
I run it on 55 percent the first 18 days then bump to 65 percent. But I check the air sacks at day 18! Allot of times with the large incubator we are hatching eggs weekly moving them into the hatch tray on the bottom. So we never raise the humidity just leave it the same temp and humidity for weeks at a time.
Any questions with humidity and hygrometer please ask!

 

[frw1985]

QUESTIONS::::: I did my first hatch Feb 20, and I have NO pips and NO ChIcks...someone said my air cells weren't big enough for day 21 I kept my humidty at 50-55%...1-18 and tried to get it about 60-65 for 18-21...im scared to try another batch in fear ill kill them all again.....I did 9 eggs and NONE hatched.... ( I have a little giant bator circulated fan was at 99.5 I have little reptile humidity gage from petssmart and my thermometer was on the grey rack with the eggs but not on them...we candled ay 18 and saw movement and were all excited and now nothing and its day 23...... these are from this AM

Please try again your rewards will out weigh the loss. Try higher humidity next time for the first eighteen days, I would go up to 60 percent then raise it ten to fifteen percent the last three days, Keep trying! Don't quit,

 

[WalnutHill]

Please try again your rewards will out weigh the loss. Try higher humidity next time for the first eighteen days, I would go up to 60 percent then raise it ten to fifteen percent the last three days,
Keep trying! Don't quit,

I respectfully disagree. The air cells are small for this stage of development, and it looks like the chicks died just at the point they should have internally pipped.

This would indicate that the humidity was too high the first 18 days of incubation and the next try should have less humidity the first 18 days. Also verify that the temperatures remain stable at lockdown when the eggs are removed from the turner and placed on the rack. Often the change in distance from the heating element to the rack is enough to influence the hatch.

 

[chickengeorgeto]

As contrary as it sounds the more humidity that you have (up to about 90%) the last 3 days the quicker your chicks will hatch out, dry off, and fluff up. Also quick hatching is best for the chicks because they don't have to squander their limited strength trying to kick their way out of a dry elastic egg membrane. Remember that the piping chick must turn or rotate itself INSIDE the eggshell, cutting or sawing the eggshell in two with the only tooth a chicken will ever possess, its egg tooth.

 

[WalnutHill]

As contrary as it sounds the more humidity that you have (up to about 90%) the last 3 days the quicker your chicks will hatch out, dry off, and fluff up. Also quick hatching is best for the chicks because they don't have to squander their limited strength trying to kick their way out of a dry elastic egg membrane. Remember that the piping chick must turn or rotate itself INSIDE the eggshell, cutting or sawing the eggshell in two with the only tooth a chicken will ever possess, its egg tooth.

I agree with the increased humidity at hatch. It's the first 18 days that concern me, there is a large amount of fluid left in the egg that should have been absorbed by the chick, and the air cell should have increased in size.