Who’s the daddy?

Jun 2, 2023
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So I have a weird question. I know that a hen can use sperm from 1 rooster up to two weeks after being inseminated. However I have a silkie hen that was kept with a paint rooster for a few weeks and had been confirmed bred multiple times in that span. I recently moved her to a different pen with a Cochin rooster, it’s been about a week. Does anyone know if her eggs collected would hatch silkies or satin silkies? At what point would her body start using the new roosters Sperm over the old one? Assuming she was refertilized by the new rooster within the first couple days.
 
At what point would her body start using the new roosters Sperm over the old one? Assuming she was refertilized by the new rooster within the first couple days.
It's inconsistent.

Starting about the second day with the new rooster, you could get eggs fertilized by him. Or you could get eggs from the old rooster for a week or two (or in some cases even longer.) I think you could also get some of each, in mixed-up order, rather than just changing over at a certain point.

I have a silkie hen that was kept with a paint rooster for a few weeks and had been confirmed bred multiple times in that span. I recently moved her to a different pen with a Cochin rooster, it’s been about a week. Does anyone know if her eggs collected would hatch silkies or satin silkies?
If the hen and the paint rooster were silkies, and if you know the Cochin rooster is actually a Cochin (not a silkie cross that might carry the gene for silkie feathers), then you will definitely be able to sort the chicks out when they start to grow feathers.

In cases where you cannot tell the chicks apart, it makes more sense to wait until you are sure of who the father will be. But if you don't mind having some of each kind of chick, and you just want to know the parentage of each one, you can start setting eggs as soon as you like.

If you want to be pretty sure of having Cochin-crosses and not pure Silkies, I would probably wait until she's been with the Cochin for two weeks, and then start collecting eggs. At that point, you will most likely get only Cochin-crosses.

If you want to be very sure about getting only Cochin-crosses, I would probably wait 6 weeks before starting to collect eggs. But unless you have a really strong reason to avoid pure Silkies, I would not bother waiting that long, if you know you will be able to recognize any pure Silkie chicks.
 
It's inconsistent.

Starting about the second day with the new rooster, you could get eggs fertilized by him. Or you could get eggs from the old rooster for a week or two (or in some cases even longer.) I think you could also get some of each, in mixed-up order, rather than just changing over at a certain point.


If the hen and the paint rooster were silkies, and if you know the Cochin rooster is actually a Cochin (not a silkie cross that might carry the gene for silkie feathers), then you will definitely be able to sort the chicks out when they start to grow feathers.

In cases where you cannot tell the chicks apart, it makes more sense to wait until you are sure of who the father will be. But if you don't mind having some of each kind of chick, and you just want to know the parentage of each one, you can start setting eggs as soon as you like.

If you want to be pretty sure of having Cochin-crosses and not pure Silkies, I would probably wait until she's been with the Cochin for two weeks, and then start collecting eggs. At that point, you will most likely get only Cochin-crosses.

If you want to be very sure about getting only Cochin-crosses, I would probably wait 6 weeks before starting to collect eggs. But unless you have a really strong reason to avoid pure Silkies, I would not bother waiting that long, if you know you will be able to recognize any pure Silkie chicks.
I was actually shooting for pure silkies. I do not have the silkie rooster anymore as I was just housing him for a friend. My Cochin is definitely pure Cochin, as I met both his parents and he displays no silkie traits. However I think it’s much more possible the chicks will be the silkies as the Cochin just became sexually mature and attempting to mate a couple days after I introduced the new hen. I’m not sure how long after they start mating that roosters become fertile. He is only just now getting the hang of what to do. He used to just sit on the hens when he was done, it was quite silly. He’s recently blossomed into quite the gentleman with his courting.

Beside the point tho, I appreciate the information. I’m fine with a mixed hatch I plan to keep any silkies that hatch. However any silkie crosses will be quite interesting as the hen and roo and drastically different colors (blue partridge and bright red calico) it should be very fun!
 
I was actually shooting for pure silkies. I do not have the silkie rooster anymore as I was just housing him for a friend. My Cochin is definitely pure Cochin, as I met both his parents and he displays no silkie traits. However I think it’s much more possible the chicks will be the silkies as the Cochin just became sexually mature and attempting to mate a couple days after I introduced the new hen. I’m not sure how long after they start mating that roosters become fertile. He is only just now getting the hang of what to do. He used to just sit on the hens when he was done, it was quite silly. He’s recently blossomed into quite the gentleman with his courting.

Beside the point tho, I appreciate the information. I’m fine with a mixed hatch I plan to keep any silkies that hatch. However any silkie crosses will be quite interesting as the hen and roo and drastically different colors (blue partridge and bright red calico) it should be very fun!
Since you want the Silkies, I would definitely collect the first eggs, but once you get past about 2 weeks your chance of getting any pure Silkies will go way down.

If you don't think the Cochin is mating, you could just keep putting eggs in the incuator until you start getting ones that don't develop (candling at 5-7 days should show that), and then stop. But if the Cochin is mating, you will have fertile eggs either way, and candling will not tell you whether they are Silkies or not.

I’m fine with a mixed hatch I plan to keep any silkies that hatch. However any silkie crosses will be quite interesting as the hen and roo and drastically different colors (blue partridge and bright red calico) it should be very fun!
Yes, they should be fun to see :)

A color prediction for the mixes: about half will have a pattern of black with red or gold, and the other half will have a pattern of blue with red or gold, but I'm not quite sure what the pattern will be. (If you post photos later, I'd like to see how right or wrong I am :lol: )
 
Since you want the Silkies, I would definitely collect the first eggs, but once you get past about 2 weeks your chance of getting any pure Silkies will go way down.

If you don't think the Cochin is mating, you could just keep putting eggs in the incuator until you start getting ones that don't develop (candling at 5-7 days should show that), and then stop. But if the Cochin is mating, you will have fertile eggs either way, and candling will not tell you whether they are Silkies or not.


Yes, they should be fun to see :)

A color prediction for the mixes: about half will have a pattern of black with red or gold, and the other half will have a pattern of blue with red or gold, but I'm not quite sure what the pattern will be. (If you post photos later, I'd like to see how right or wrong I am :lol: )
I have half a dozen that are going into the incubator today, the oldest eggs are 10 days old. I’m guessing the majority of them should be silkies. I plan to add over the next three days and then begin collecting for the next batch. I understand the eggs approaching 20 days old probably won’t be viable but I don’t have enough experience to do a staggered hatch. I will definitely update in 21 days if you’d like to see what hatches! Thank you for the color predictions, I really had no idea lol
 
I have half a dozen that are going into the incubator today, the oldest eggs are 10 days old. I’m guessing the majority of them should be silkies. I plan to add over the next three days and then begin collecting for the next batch.
That sounds like it should work :)
(If it weren't for the two-incubator issue, I would not add any eggs over the next three days. As it is, yes that may be better than the alternative.)

I understand the eggs approaching 20 days old probably won’t be viable but I don’t have enough experience to do a staggered hatch.
One fairly simple way to manage staggered hatches: have two incubators. Incubate the eggs in one, then move them to the other for hatching. That makes it possible to set another batch every week for as long as you like. (One week is a good interval between batches: you aren't storing them for too long before setting, but you have enough time for each batch to hatch and you to clean the hatch-incubator before you move in the next batch.)

The second incubator can be smaller, and doesn't need a turner, which can make it cheaper to get. Since all the hatching mess will be in that second incubator, it is best if it is easy-to-clean.
 
That sounds like it should work :)
(If it weren't for the two-incubator issue, I would not add any eggs over the next three days. As it is, yes that may be better than the alternative.)


One fairly simple way to manage staggered hatches: have two incubators. Incubate the eggs in one, then move them to the other for hatching. That makes it possible to set another batch every week for as long as you like. (One week is a good interval between batches: you aren't storing them for too long before setting, but you have enough time for each batch to hatch and you to clean the hatch-incubator before you move in the next batch.)

The second incubator can be smaller, and doesn't need a turner, which can make it cheaper to get. Since all the hatching mess will be in that second incubator, it is best if it is easy-to-clean.
This is an excellent idea! I’ll have to start putting money aside right away
 
That sounds like it should work :)
(If it weren't for the two-incubator issue, I would not add any eggs over the next three days. As it is, yes that may be better than the alternative.)


One fairly simple way to manage staggered hatches: have two incubators. Incubate the eggs in one, then move them to the other for hatching. That makes it possible to set another batch every week for as long as you like. (One week is a good interval between batches: you aren't storing them for too long before setting, but you have enough time for each batch to hatch and you to clean the hatch-incubator before you move in the next batch.)

The second incubator can be smaller, and doesn't need a turner, which can make it cheaper to get. Since all the hatching mess will be in that second incubator, it is best if it is easy-to-clean.
Hi so I know it been a second, but I finally have some extra cash to get a second smaller incubator for just hatching chicks. I have one picked out that looks good. Lots of reviews and everything is digital and automatic, but I’d love an opinion on it! I’ve attached the photo😊
IMG_3131.png
 
Thank you so much!! This was exactly the information I needed. I have a nuture right 360 and the kebbonix would be for moving eggs into for lockdown so I can have several batches going in the 360 at once. This method was recommended to me since I hate having two weeks worth of silkie eggs that I’m unable to incubate once I start a cycle🙄 I hope this method will remedy that problem
 

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