“Share Helpful Backyard Poultry TIPS” a Random Posting CONTEST Thread ~ Hosts, Mike & Sally

Here are some mini feeders I made for the brooders.
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New tubing set up for filling the water tray without opening the bator door.

Got a bunch of super useful medical supplies from a closing down vet office of Ebay a few years ago (Literally paid about $30 for several thousands $ worth of stuff).

This is made up of 2 IV extensions with a three way tap. One end will go into the outside resevoir of water, and one into the water tray. Use the 60ml syringe to suck up water from the resevoir and the 3 way tap to direct it into the tray.

 
For bottom of brooder - paper towels are ok but slippery - but repurposed towels are great:

You can use worn out towels (or pick them up from a thrift store). Wash them and cut them out into the correct size for the bator. I use several layers. After the hatch toss the top layer (
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) , and wash the lower layers that may be damp. Then reuse the washed towels next time, again tossing the top layer each time. This saves on time, stinkiness, and I am pretty sure $$ as you can get through quite a bit of paper towel!

It also helps with bator clean up as all the real mess gets removed on the towels, including dander.

The other thing I like about this is that these old towels won't usually get used again by humans, so instead of them going to directly to landfill they get a second life and may even become compost!
 
I made one based on your photos! I'll try to get a photo of it. I need to shorten the barrel to make it brighter for the darker eggs. But other than that, I love it!!

Oh..it was you! Yes, post it again. I used a Boston Baked Bean can. And for the light bulb, it's one of those florescent bulbs. :) I just candled some EE eggs..and there are some darker blues and greens in there. I could see in them real well towards the bottom of the egg. I love that silly candler.
 
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I use the kitchen liner like many do. Some say they throw them in the wash. I personally throw them out when done. I get them at the dollar store.
I am covering the whole bator this time, and will use more sponges..makes up for an easy clean up.
 
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Here is my first tip:
Use your birds to your advantage. Many people keep collecting birds and the feed bill grows. Try to sell eggs/birds/chicks and make the birds pay for themselves.
 
do not underestimate predators. a feral cat managed to climb the oak in my yard and get inside my grow out coop, it made off with three chicks and four more were trampled by the others.

I feel your pain. My knuckle headed dog got loose this morning and pushed the run open. All but 1 hen was found. I just heard it squall from next door. I watch the dog grab her through a hole in the fence.
 
I'm not sure how all you chicken lovers feel about processing chickens for meat birds but I do. I have found many tricks to making it easier. I'll share the feathering trick. Heat a pot of water (just big enough to dunk the whole bird in) to about 130 degrees. Not boiling. Just very hot but you can still put your hand in without scalding. Take your bird (after you kill it please
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) and dip it into the water for about a minute. Swish it around and than you should be able to pluck that bird very easily. Even those pesky wing feathers come right out with just a little pressure for the quill feathers.
 
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:clap [COLOR=008080]Incubators with fans and without fans need to run at DIFFERENT TEMPS![/COLOR] post #31175









when using a Still Air incubator (no fan) at 102º F.  KEEP READING WHERE TO SET THE THERMOMETERS...........

The reason for different temperatures is that with a fan model the circulating air warms all around the egg while still air temperatures are warmer at the top of the egg than at the bottom. [COLOR=FF0000]The temperature is measured at the level where the embryos develop (at the top of the HORIZONTAL egg). NOTE: If the eggs are in vertical position, elevate the thermometer just below the top of the egg. The temperature is measured at the level where the embryos develop (at the top of the egg). Never allow the thermometer to touch the eggs or incubator because incorrect readings can result.[/COLOR]​

A high temperature tends to produce early hatches. A consistently cooler temperature tends to increase incubation times and produce weakened chicks. In both cases the total chicks hatched will be reduced.  Prepare your incubator and run it for several days before adding eggs, to be positive you are maintaining correct incubation temperature.  [COLOR=003366]NOTE: It is common that when adding eggs the temperature will drop but should come back up to correct temperature within an hour or two. Don’t rest the thermometer's bulb touching the eggs or the incubator. Incorrect readings will result. [/COLOR][COLOR=FF0000]Did you know that 10/13 day old embryos begin to produce excess heat in the incubator? Most large commercial incubators will spend more time cooling than heating![/COLOR]​
Thank you bubbles and everyone else. You're already helping newbies like me.
 

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