56 Gallon waterer to prevent freezing in the winter

I think it will work very well for you, bevis. It was in colder Iowa where it has those problems.

I thought the average temperature is more helpful than average highs and average lows - yours is lowest in Januaru at 32F. Dec is 36, Feb is 35.

Most of the time, the air temperature will help keep the water above freezing before it has been below freezing long enough to freeze that much water.

You will probably have only a few weeks (total, in various cold spells probably) where you will need to help the system along - empty and refill more often, maybe, or add boiling water if you don't want to get a stock tank heater. The stock tank heater is the easiest way by far.

The hose will freeze much faster than the tank. Between fills of the tank, you will need leave the hose running a trickle or drain it or drag it somewhere above freezing.
should i get a floating heater or a caged bottom heater ?
 
There are many aquarium heater and birdbath heater types uses in these:
https://www.backyardchickens.com/articles/categories/feeders-waterers.26/

Considering that ice floats, top drinking could be a problem. I only have to water 4 hens and use a purchased ~3 gallon heater with build in horizontal nipples. On the coldest days, even that had some ice on the top of it. Most of the articles I've read used the horizontal nipples because the warmer water from the bottom of the tank can keep the drinker nipple thawed enough to use.
 
thanks for the link. according to rubbermaid it has to be a caged heater. i'll see if they make that in a caged type.
 
While all my chicken care was previously in Central Florida where freezing water is not a thing, I have since moved to Kentucky and have been trying to figure out how to supply water for 50 chickens in the winter without putting out 6 or 8 heated waterers and getting electric to all of them.
Here is what i came up with. This is a tractor supply 50 gallon rubbermaid tub that actually holds 56 gallons of water.

As you can see in the pics, i plumbed a drain into it with a drain pipe that exits the run so it can be drained and cleaned whenever you want.
I currently have a 100 foot garden hose stretched out to the chicken house so i could do their waterers every day. I knew this would not fly in freezing weather.
I figure that 56 gallons of water is not going to freeze very easily and if it freezes on the top layer, it can be easily busted up quickly.

Then entire cost of this waterer is about $150. For me thats a small price to pay to resolve a big issue and to keep me from literally carrying heavy water out to the chickens at least once a day no matter the weather. I will attach the pics and the links to the stuff i used other than the 1 sheet of 7/16 OSB and 2x3's and 2 cheap door hinges from harbor freight.

The way i got the top figured out was to turn the tub upside down and lay it on the sheet of OSB and used a sharpie to draw around it and then added 2 inches to it. That way i could attach those small pieces of 2x3 around the underneath to act as a guide when putting the top on and keep if from moving around.
The piece of angled OSB at the front actually extends beyond the trough opening so if a chicken is standing on the edge of it they cant poop in the water.
We all know if you dont put something like that around the opening, they will certainly poop in the water.

The little 2 piece 2x3 board on the far right side holds the poop stopper up and swings out of the way to shut the lid completely. I did buy a single 2x6 to build the stand in front of the waterer for them to stand on. Im not sure its the correct height yet but it can be brought up higher easily. So far its working great.
So now i have no small waterers to deal with on a daily basis and i have no fear of that entire tub freezing solid this winter. If it does, I have way bigger problems than that tub of water.

As you can see, most of the girls have BluKote sprayed on their backsides. We had a speckled sussex that insisted on picking out those small feathers back there on EVERYONE and she did it daily and non stop. Pick no more did nothing to stop her and the blukote did nothing to deter her. She now has a new home with a great owner and a new flock and everyone is on the mend and new growth has already begun. The offender is not exhibiting that thing at her new home. Thank goddness


Tractor supply rubbermaid tub - https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/p...ural-foam-stock-tanks-50-gal-capacity-2229927

Drain kit from amazon - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0B9BSZBHL?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1

If you want to drain the tub away from your area, pick up a 3/4" male adapter and a 10' stick ( or multiple sticks with couplings ) of 3/4" pvc pipe while yore getting a sheet of OSB. Thats what i used. I did not glue any of the PVC since its just a drain and why add the expense of primer and glue.

The valve kit accepts 3/4" PVC fittings.

I forgot, you will also need a 1 1/2" hole saw to drill into the tub for the drain valve kit if you decide to use it.
Here is the hole saw kit i bought from harbor freight. It worked great.
https://www.harborfreight.com/34-in-5-in-carbon-steel-hole-saw-set-18-pc-57524.html
I have used 50 plus gallon plastic olive barrels for years in Tennessee to maintain unfrozen water supply. I do this by placing the barrels against a south facing wall and even in 2 degrees F they have never frozen up. The plumbing may freeze, then I just open the barrels and pump out from the open top to use the water. I cover the top of the barrels with an upside down planter for better protection and to keep water from sitting on the recessed lid that would grow mosquitos. Good luck and best wishes for your flock and winter water situation.
 
I have used 50 plus gallon plastic olive barrels for years in Tennessee to maintain unfrozen water supply. I do this by placing the barrels against a south facing wall and even in 2 degrees F they have never frozen up. The plumbing may freeze, then I just open the barrels and pump out from the open top to use the water. I cover the top of the barrels with an upside down planter for better protection and to keep water from sitting on the recessed lid that would grow mosquitos. Good luck and best wishes for your flock and winter water situation.
Makes me wonder if i even need a heater. I could wait and see if i have a freezing issue and then add a heater if so. Its warmer in Tennessee though.
 
Makes me wonder if i even need a heater. I could wait and see if i have a freezing issue and then add a heater if so. Its warmer in Tennessee though.
The key is two-fold: preparation and redundancy. Have the electrical cords ready if using them. (they can be a pain to deal with when frozen.) Having multiple waters that can be interchanged throughout the day. Be ready for a plan to not work or something to fail.
 
Makes me wonder if i even need a heater. I could wait and see if i have a freezing issue and then add a heater if so. Its warmer in Tennessee though.
I don't think you do if you are willing/able to be inconvenienced during the cold spells. I think it would be for a day or two now and then. Maybe a little more some years.

Inconvenienced meaning things like extra checking on the tank and the drain, adding some heat if needed (it could be milk jugs of hot water sunk near the drain), there are quite a lot of such things.

Or insulate - partially bury it, bank the tank with sawdust or ground corncobs or bales of straw or whatever, insulate the cover. If you use commercial insulation then it is best to cover the insulation. Chickens like to eat styrofoam.

Or some of both if it is easy enough to do or you want the peace of mind.
 

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