9 gauge vs 11.5 gauge chain link... and bears?

raggiedoll88

Chirping
Jan 14, 2021
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Hey everyone!

I've got 6 ducks that just turned 8 weeks old and I'm about to start building their run. We're making it larger than originally planned because my dreams of letting them free range during the day (while I'm outside) have been dashed by a few pesky and persistent neighborhood cats who have become obsessed with trying to get my ducks every time they're outside. More than once I've had to scare them off by spraying them with the hose, but that only deters them for so long and then they come back and try again. The last time it happened the ducks were swimming in their pool and if I hadn't been as close as I was to them I'm sure the cat would've gotten one of my ducks... luckily I was able to scare it away. Because of that though I won't be letting them free range, and instead have decided to expand the area in their coop to let them have a little more room to roam around and forage during the day.

I live in the hills of Northwest Connecticut and we have quite a few predators in the area. My main concern is bobcats, raccoons and black bears. Specifically black bears. I know they're incredibly strong and if they're determined to get into something there's pretty much nothing that can stop them. So I'm trying to come up with the best way to bear-proof my run so that my girls stay safe.

My dad thinks that I should be using 9 gauge chain link fencing for the run since it's a stronger material than the typical residential 11.5 gauge chain link. He's convinced that if we sink the poles a few feet down into the ground with concrete and bury 6 inches of the 4 foot high chain link fencing (so that the height of the run is 3.5 feet) that should be strong enough to stop a bear from breaking in. We also plan on outfitting the inside of the run with hardware cloth most of the way up the walls and electrifying the outside with electric wire hooked up to a solar charger (it'll be located too far from any electrical outlet to be able to use plug-in charger although I'm sure those are probably more powerful). The roof will also be made out of 9 gauge chain link.

I'm also trying to find an audio monitor that can be left outdoors (almost like a baby monitor or walkie talkie kind of idea) so that when I'm in the house and not watching the girls directly I can still listen to their little chitter chatter and be alerted to anything that doesn't sound right -- I'm assuming if a predator was trying to break in to their run they'd make some sort of a fuss that would let me know to go check on them and see what's going on.

The run itself is going to be L-shaped with the main part being 10 x 30 feet long with an addition of 10 x 12 feet coming off the left end. The 10 x 12 addition will house their swimming area -- my father has fallen head over heels in love with my ducks over the past two months and he decided that the large kiddie pool that they have right now simply won't do (it is a little cramped when all 6 are in it) so he's planning on building them a 6 x 10 foot swimming area so they can zoom and splash and float around to their hearts' content 😄

9 gauge chain link isn't cheap (although nowadays what is?) -- from our calculations the fencing material alone (not including posts, hardware, etc) will cost close to $800. And that's not considering the cost of hardware cloth or electric fencing or anything else. I'm trying to remind myself that this is will be used for many years to come, and I'll do whatever it takes to keep my girls safe, But my goodness, by the time we're done building this monstrosity I think we'll have to refer to it as Duckingham Palace 🤣



Is there anything else I can do to protect my ladies? Is the 9 gauge chain link overkill compared to the normal 11.5 gauge? Or would a bear be able to take down chain link fencing no matter what gauge it was?

Any advice or suggestions on predator-proofing, and specifically bear-proofing, my run would be much appreciated! Thank you!
 
He's convinced that if we sink the poles a few feet down into the ground with concrete and bury 6 inches of the 4 foot high chain link fencing (so that the height of the run is 3.5 feet) that should be strong enough to stop a bear from breaking in.
The bear will pick it's teeth with what's left of the poles after it pulls them down. This is NOTHING for a bear to destroy.
We also plan on outfitting the inside of the run with hardware cloth most of the way up the walls and electrifying the outside with electric wire hooked up to a solar charger (it'll be located too far from any electrical outlet to be able to use plug-in charger although I'm sure those are probably more powerful).
When it comes to deterring predators the size of bears, go big or go home.
A solar powered charger is likely to provide a zap with that will be no more a deterrent than a gnat buzzing around a bears nose. You need something with punch. 10,000 volt / 1.6 Joule would be the minimum effective charger.

How far away is the duck house from the nearest power supply?

It really isn't that hard to run a line out to the duck house by tapping off an existing lightly loaded circuit and installing a GFCI receptacle in a weather proof box at the duck house or run a new GFCI protected circuit to the duck house. That would be ideal. Then mount a charger like this under the eaves of the house so it is protected from the elements by the roof overhang. I'd drive the ground rods near the duck pond as they will be the most effective there where the soil is nice a wet.
 
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The bear will pick it's teeth with what's left of the poles after it pulls them down. This is NOTHING for a bear to destroy.

When it comes to deterring predators the size of bears, go big or go home.
A solar powered charger is likely to provide a zap with that will be no more a deterrent than a gnat buzzing around a bears nose. You need something with punch. 10,000 volt / 1.6 Joule would be the minimum effective charger.

How far away is the duck house from the nearest power supply?

It really isn't that hard to run a line out to the duck house by tapping off an existing lightly loaded circuit and installing a GFCI receptacle in a weather proof box at the duck house or run a new GFCI protected circuit to the duck house. That would be ideal. Then mount a charger like this under the eaves of the house so it is protected from the elements by the roof overhang. I'd drive the ground rods near the duck pond as they will be the most effective there where the soil is nice a wet.
Thank you for all your helpful info! I'll definitely be avoiding the solar charger and going with the more powerful charger... Luckily I have a TSC right down the road from me! I'm going tho go check out the charger this week.

My dad said that he'll help me run some conduit out from the house to the duck run area so we can have electricity out there. That'll help with powering the electric fence and pumping out the pool ☺️

Thanks again!
 
I will add that you likely would find tending them MUCH easier if the run was tall enough to stand fully upright in.

I agree you need a stronger charger than what a solar can provide.
We thought about that too -- my back already isn't that great and I'm not even that old yet 😂 -- and decided to have the peak of the roof be about 7 feet in the center tapering down to about 4 feet at the sides.

And yeah, solar would've been ideal if it worked for bears but I'm DEFINITELY going to go with something more powerful now -- I want to make sure any bear that makes its way to the duck run gets a good zap ⚡😋
 
I agree on all accounts.

STRONG electric is the only thing that stops a bear.

And a taller fence is highly desirable. What you save on the short fence you will pay back out in chiropractor bills from working in there bent over

I agree on all accounts.

STRONG electric is the only thing that stops a bear.

And a taller fence is highly desirable. What you save on the short fence you will pay back out in chiropractor bills from working in there bent over.
You're so right about the chiropractor bills 🤣😂🤣 We decided to make the peak of the roof close to 7 feet tapering down to the side walls. It should give me a good amount of headroom in the middle of the run and I'm pretty sure I'll be about to rake or shovel out anything close to the side walls with the lower headroom without too much difficulty. Thanks so much for your input!
 
You're so right about the chiropractor bills 🤣😂🤣 We decided to make the peak of the roof close to 7 feet tapering down to the side walls. It should give me a good amount of headroom in the middle of the run and I'm pretty sure I'll be about to rake or shovel out anything close to the side walls with the lower headroom without too much difficulty. Thanks so much for your input!

You're welcome. I made the half-high run to save money on materials mistake and deeply regretted it every time I had to shovel out the run.
 

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