Aging layers... thinking pullets

[gtaus]

As far as I can tell, it is a pecking order situation, but my Austra also has a definite dislike with sharing food, so she tends to be more cranky with my Red and Sex-link.

Do you feed your chickens only once or twice per day? Do they eat all the feed when fed?

I have read that if you only feed a small amount to your birds once or twice a day, they will learn to fight for their food and gorge themselves when the food is offered. One way to "correct" this situation is to have feed available 24/7. I have my commercial feed available in a 5 gallon bucket feeder that hangs in the coop 24/7. I never let it run out. My birds have never fought over their commercial feed as they have learned that there is food available all the time. They are free to eat a little bit whenever they want so there is no fighting at the feeder.

I want to prevent an issue before it is an issue. so... back to my original question, revised: when integrating pullets to an aging flock, should I get more than one?

I would get more than one, especially if you intend to eventually replace your ageing flock.

Does size/age matter?

Yes, size matters, not age so much. The pullets will have to be big enough to defend themselves or they risk being killed by the adult hens.

(I am not concerned about coop and run size.)

The first thing I would be concerned about is coop size. You mentioned you have a small coop. Small coops lead to bad behavior for your flock. Introducing more birds to your small coop many increase the bad behavior you have mentioned. I understand you might not be able to "upgrade" your coop situation, but if you have a small coop, maybe you need to think about reducing your current flock before getting any new pullets.

There are some local farm stores that sell prefab chicken coops that are really only big enough for 3, maybe 4 hens, but they advertise the coop will hold 8 hens! Again, most people here would recommend a minimum of 4 square feet per bird in the coop to keep the peace. Double that recommendation if you live in a snow bound state for the winter when the hens will spending most of their time in the coop.

Also, as to the chicken run, I have read that adding "run away" shelters for smaller pullets can be effective to help them get away from a larger bully hen. Provide them places that they can run under - and through - making sure they cannot get trapped inside the shelter.

 

[Chickassan]

Your Mom was having a bit of fun im afraid, put the biggest, toughest man on earth in a run of hens with bread and he's going to get pecked.
It simply isn't humanly possible to toss it fast enough to please them "they're a bit greedy lol!"
A kid has no chance against them!
As for what breed as has been stated reds do tend to stick together and be pretty awful to non reds.
No idea why, but it is pretty fascinating.
And some breeds are socially disadvantaged because they look odd like Polish and Silkies.
Then some just have meek personalities like Faverolles and get beat up by everybody forever.
If you can stick to what you know by all means do that, it will help.
Oh, and don't teach the new ones to jump for bites of bready things.
It is tempting, and they're cute when they hop.
But the day everybody goes on a diet...oh boy.
Not that i'd know about such things.

I just had flashbacks to when I was little... my mom’s chickens hated me! I think I was five, and she always had me let them out of the run, and toss them her bread scraps. I don’t remember much except they’d chase me and pecked at my legs. Lol Anyway, now as an adult, I think they just wanted something better than bread scraps. Lol

I just want to have more egg layers. I think I’d like to get more of my current breeds. I don’t know if that will help with integration, but I know they tolerate the weather here wonderfully, and are over all great layers.

 

[rosemarythyme]

Also, as to the chicken run, I have read that adding "run away" shelters for smaller pullets can be effective to help them get away from a larger bully hen. Provide them places that they can run under - and through - making sure they cannot get trapped inside the shelter.

This would help immensely. A photo of your existing set up, coop and run, would also help us spot any obvious issues or make suggestions. Since you said you currently have no way of integrating new birds, you will need to wait until you can set up something to allow for integration. Doesn't need to be anything fancy but does need to be able to keep the two groups apart for up to several weeks.

At the very least I'd add a second feeders (or other food options, such as bowls) which may help diffuse food squabbling issues with the existing birds, and will make integration smoother in the future.

As to the original question, I'd advise at least 2 pullets, possibly 3. However you need to be realistic about how much space you have as well - don't add 3 if you simply do not have space for 3 more.

 

[possumblossum]

You still haven't address the health concerns from introducing new hens into your existing flock. In your original post you state that you don't have a cage or other means of conducting a gradual introduction. That also means you don't have the ability to quarantine your new birds for a few weeks prior to introduction. This means you aren't ready for new chickens.

There are just some sacrifices you have to make as a responsible flock manager and this is one of them. If you bring in new birds...even from a local establishment...you are introducing new microorganisms and cross-contamination. Rather than researching breeds, I suggest you research coop plans and tractor layouts and find a way to do this right. A large, open bottom dog crate (see craigslist if not TSC or RK) will suffice for 14 days or so to allow your new birds to acclimate to your environment. You then move the crate to your coop for a few hours each evening for a couple more days and finally introduce your new birds well after dark.

You owe it to your birds, both old and new, to set them up for a healthy transition.

 

[FortCluck]

Okay... my vagueness has led to assumptions that I need to correct. My hens are not pulling feathers or harming each other. As far as I can tell, it is a pecking order situation, but my Austra also has a definite dislike with sharing food, so she tends to be more cranky with my Red and Sex-link. And they prefer to be apart when loose, often going off in opposite directions rather than moving together. While I am concerned about integration, it is more based off other chicken owners’ horror stories than my own chickens’ behavior. I want to prevent an issue before it is an issue. so... back to my original question, revised: when integrating pullets to an aging flock, should I get more than one? Does size/age matter? Etc. (I am not concerned about coop and run size.)

Do the see but not touch method for a few weeks and introducing them will go easily. I have a flock of 14 and my old cockerel could be quite the crank some days (he was rehomed because he was aggressive when mating, but we kept his brother), but if he saw another chicken for weeks he has zero issues with them. I've introduced chicks to my flock using this method and flock has zero issues with any newcomers. I don't see size being an issue or age just as long as you do the see but not touch method.

Basically put the newcomers within seeing distance. I use a dog kennel that is built into my run. They can see, but not peck or irritate each other. The old flock basically welcomes them in with open arms when you do that for about 2 weeks.

 

[Cryss]

1. If you can’t do the “see, don’t touch” method of integrating now then don’t get pullets now. How you integrate is more important than what breeds you integrate. Prepare so you can be successful.
2. if you can’t quarantine new pullets for several weeks don’t bring pullets home yet. You would be gambling that they all succumb to disease and contaminate the coop and ground against future flocks. Prepare so you can be successful.
3. Why are you not concerned with coop and run size? You say it it small yet you want to add more chickens. You expressed concern about new pullets being accepted but aren’t concerned about overcrowding. You are avoiding answering size queries. I don’t believe you are ready for pullets yet. Prepare so you can be successful.
We are here to help, we want you to be successful.

 

[FortCluck]

1. If you can’t do the “see, don’t touch” method of integrating now then don’t get pullets now. How you integrate is more important than what breeds you integrate. Prepare so you can be successful.
2. if you can’t quarantine new pullets for several weeks don’t bring pullets home yet. You would be gambling that they all succumb to disease and contaminate the coop and ground against future flocks. Prepare so you can be successful.
3. Why are you not concerned with coop and run size? You say it it small yet you want to add more chickens. You expressed concern about new pullets being accepted but aren’t concerned about overcrowding. You are avoiding answering size queries. I don’t believe you are ready for pullets yet. Prepare so you can be successful.
We are here to help, we want you to be successful.

I agree with you

 

[CBorden77]

I appreciate all the advice for the questions I asked. Thank you.

 

[Cryss]

I also don’t have a way to integrate the pullets - no way to keep them separated from my hens... at least not now during the cold months. I’d appreciate some advice. TIA

 

[Cryss]

My way has been using a dog cage. I would get one for a large dog, keep it in the garage or basement or shed, somewhere safe from predators and weather. Quarantine them there for a few weeks. Then use the same cage inside the run to let them see and be seen without being bullied. I put a tarp over mine at night and during the day I left the tarp cover the top only to keep out rain and so the older chickens couldn’t perch on top and poop on the pullets. I never only introduce 1 chicken. 2 is better so they have a buddy when they are finally introduced without separation. 3 is best in case something happens to 1 so the remaining chickens still have a buddy. They are very social birds. I have 2 in particular that were introduced at the same time in this manner. To this day they are best buds. Where one is you will find the other. If the one lower on the pecking order is being bullied a bit too much the other will step between them.