Any ideas for rain gutter on Quaker coop?

[Kathy Golla]

Hi everyone,
I am out of ideas so am turning to the construction experts.
I have a Quaker coop. We are in Northern California and last year got a lot of rain, which flowed off of the coop roof into the pen. We would like a rain gutter at least on the larger side of the peak/roof.
This coop was made for us by a company. The problem is a) the coop was built with no eave on the long side, the rain comes off the roof and down the outer wall and trickles into the top door vent and b) the vent is placed very close to the roof and there is maybe a 3 inch clearance. Sadly it seems like conventional rain gutters for a home wont work as I wont be able open the vent.
Any ideas what I can do to divert water from the roof to not inside the pen? Here's a pic of the coop configuration. This is the coop with the vent open.
Thanks so much in advance for any ideas.

 

[pintail_drake2004]

Kathy: I'm no expert on guttering but I worked as a roofer for 7 years and have seen situations like this on existing roofs. What we did was attach the guttering clips/hooks to the fascia board like normal (accounting for slope for water run off), and then slip a piece of aluminum flashing under the first row of shingles. You don't need a big piece, a couple inches under the shingles, and a couple inches of over hang is all you need. Hang your guttering like normal-I always advise to caulk joints and end caps as I don't trust them-and use a line level to ensure you have the proper slope. Once the guttering is installed, bend the flashing down into the gutter trough. you may or may not need to trim in some places to ensure it fits in the trough or doesn't hit anything. Be sure to put a good crease in the flashing so it stays put.
Like I said, I'm no expert but have built a few houses, and roofed a few hundred more. I've dealt with this vary situation and this is what we always did to remedy the issue. The first row of shingles is usually installed backwards. If you are careful with your installation of the flashing, you can slip it in under the shingles and nail it down using standard roofing nails without having any need to raise any more shingles. Aluminum flashing is cheap (about $10 for a 10"x10' roll). vinyl guttering is cheap, especially if you are only going to do one side.

If you have any more questions, feel free to ask.

 

[Kathy Golla]

Hi Pintail Drake,
Thank you so much for the reply...I really appreciate it. This is so informative.
One follow up question, it seems as if the standard 4 inch gutters are too large for this project. Do you have any suggestions for what type of gutter I might install that wont cover the vent door? I have about 3 inches clearance. Thanks so much...

 

[Ridgerunner]

Pintail, what do you think of installing a 2x2 or such to that fascia board to give a bit of separation, then hanging the gutters off that and installing that flashing? That should give enough separation so the vents can work plus keep rain out.

 

[aart]

No roof overhang/eave. Sorry pet peave.

Would you get a pic from the end of the coop showing the roof, wall, vent?

 

[pintail_drake2004]

Ridgerunner: the 2x2 toenail to the fascia wont really help with the ventilation issue after one adds the guttering on top. It will more than likely create an air pocket behind the gutter and in front of the fascia and on top of the vent. If you have high humidity, this could lead to a problem.

aart: I totally agree. Any roof job we did, I always advised letting us add some overhang. most homeowner agreed. Its really not that much work when you building the home to add 12-24" of overhang, and it makes a world of difference when you add guttering. but it is much harder (not impossible but not easy) to do after the roof is already build.

Kathy:

One follow up question, it seems as if the standard 4 inch gutters are too large for this project. Do you have any suggestions for what type of gutter

I know they make low profile guttering, although I have never used it myself. 3 inches is not much wiggle room. I have seen some jerry-rigged systems that work but look like the name sounds. I'm sure a little internet search will turn up something that will fit your needs. Either way, an aluminum flashing is going to be required with no eve.

 

[Kathy Golla]

Hi Aart,
Here is a pic. Lovely, huh? My husband has like a carpet threshold tacked up there right now to help divert water. We use this vent all summer, its the
major ventilation for the coop.

 

[aart]

What I would do here is turn that vent cover around, hinge it at the top.
Then tack up some rubber(heavy pond liner/roofing type stuff) just under the shingles to hang over the hinges.
Yeah, it might not vent quite as well and you'll have to prop the vent cover open with a stick, but certainly better than water running into your coop.

What is that small piece of kind of angular trim(?) right under the edge of the shingles?

Seeing the rest of the coop and knowing your location/climate might offer other ideas.

 

[aart]

aart: I totally agree. Any roof job we did, I always advised letting us add some overhang. most homeowner agreed. Its really not that much work when you building the home to add 12-24" of overhang, and it makes a world of difference when you add guttering. but it is much harder (not impossible but not easy) to do after the roof is already build.

One of the things I liked best about my house when shopping is the 24" overhangs...and no gutters.
I added overhangs to the large shed my coop is in, it previously had none.
Not the best design, I went for looks and later realized had sacrificed function...but it's a shed and still works better than before.

 

[Rob Tof]

I would use pvc pipe cut in half on a table saw. All the pvc brackets will still work. Use a t and more pipe for down spout. Cut off after glueing and dry. I would use roll flashing under shingles and bend in to gutter.