Attaching Polycarbonate roof to cattle panel?

Thanks again to all who contributed suggestions on our coop. We got the roof up this weekend. We ended up with used metal roofing. (Photo attached.)

We have:
-- two 16ft cattle panels as structure, only 3 rafters (about 4ft apart);
-- some partial purlins under the cattle panels at intervals; and
-- we used the gasketed screws through the metal into the purlins, sandwiching the cattle panels.

Installing:
--We rolled a large IBC tote under the roof where the lean-to roof is, to help support the roof. Also used two aluminum walk-boards as ramps.
--Then we used a block and tackle stretched out to a large tree to pull the whole roof structure up onto the rafters. (The cattle panels wires tended to catch a bit on the tails of the rafters as they were pulled past; someone had to push the roof up to free a few of them.)
-- Once we got it up there, we temporarily used a post/beam to shore up the lean-to section of the roof. (Will replace that with some old 4x4 posts and a beam soon.)
Finally, we screwed thru the metal into the purlins and rafters.

Ran into a snag we didn't expect when we got the roof pulled almost all the way up to the front of the building... Newbie mistake we should not have made. There's a tall straight oak tree on each side of the building in front of the front (taller) wall. One tree is apparently growing a bit closer further up at roof height than at top of the wall. The partial purlins didn't exactly like we meant them to do; we shimmed the rafter on that side with more purlins. So we ended up with the whole roof a bit off center, looking from the front. By the time we realized what was happening, various helpers didn't have the patience to take care of it differently. No one will notice. The roof is square with the building, just offset an inch to one side. Shrugs.

Lessons learned:
If I had it to do again, I am thinking I'd do the whole roof differently.
-- Cleaning/pressure-washing and scrubbing the used metal was a pain (picked it up in the rain and it had mud - we didn't realize the shape). This took time we didn't need to spend; should have bought new clear poly.
-- Next, once we sourced metal, I think I'd have skipped the cattle panels which were meant for the poly. Just added more rafters for metal.
-- And since we wanted this to be modular and disassembled if we move soon, I think we could have made the sections of the roof across the building instead of down the slope, and layered like shingles, lighter weight sections installed crossways and overlapping -- instead of the one big section over 16ft long.

Hit List:
-- Chicken door is installed - it needs a latch, and a ramp. (Then, a yard or tractor for now.)
-- Roost and nest boxes. I don't know how high to position those.
-- Ventilation: frame screens with hardware cloth for window, door, and upper openings.
-- Hang the people door.
-- Extra screws in floor boards; install vinyl sheet goods.
-- I am not sure about poop boards or deep litter - was reading threads here this morning. Might just lay some cardboard under the roosts for now?
 

Attachments

  • 2023 March 19 Got the Roof raised.jpg
    2023 March 19 Got the Roof raised.jpg
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We're new to chickens, building a first 6.5x8ft coop with walls of old cedar fence panels. (Extremely well worn, 30 years old. I don't think cedar oil will be a problem at this point. )

We're trying to build this with materials on hand for the most part. We're screwing this together with brackets at corners and floor, because we're thinking we'll move soon and want to disassemble the panels and take it all with us in a pickup truck.

We've gotten to the roof system, and I'm thinking -- in aide of light weight and movability -- that we'll build:
-- an extension above the front wall;
-- build similar triangular sections above the side walls;
-- cover all with hardware cloth.
And then rather than rafters, make a sloped roof/ flat platform atop those open-air sections, made of a cattle panel. Should be stiff enough.

We have a source of inexpensive polycarbonate wavy roof panels. Does anyone have an idea for attaching the poly to the top of the cattle panels? (We know we could add purlins but it adds weight and cost.) We've not worked with polycarbonate roof panels before.)

More details below. Would appreciate suggestions. Thanks!

-------------
So far the floor and walls are in:
Concrete block piers.
Two large heavy-duty pallets with 10" wide oak floor boards.
Plan to cover the floor with a layer of 1/8" fiberglass wall paneling for washability.
Four walls of the old fence panels (on three rails).

People door on one side; chicken door on another. I have a layout and concept drawing.

It's under elm and oak trees; should be shaded. We have, hot humid Summers, a few cold spells in winter not too often down into the teens. (But we do occasionally have a colder spell, such as the 2F abnormality this year.)

I'll also need suggestions on ventilation. We'll have to add one or more windows. Not decided where to place them yet.


There are sizeable gaps between the old fence boards. We thought on the bottom 30 inches (up to the middle rail) to add battens to stop drafts. On the top two feet between rails we are planning on stapling hardware cloth, allowing that extra bit of ventilation.
Great!!
 
Cheap boards? Where can I find some cheap boards? I need to replace some decking 2x6's and each one is anywhere from $40 to $75 each....I'm glad we finished the decks a few years ago, or I would never have been able to afford it! We have about 2,000 ft of decking, which goes all around the house, down below where there is a large "party deck" area, and then across the dirt bridge that forms the pond...that gets us over to the garden and chicken house. I can't even imagine what it would cost to build now. Oh, and I forgot to include the bridge at the north end of the pond...just that would probably cost thousands to build now...sad!
 
For example, could you cut off a one foot section of wavy polycarb, and attach that underneath the cattle panel below where you puncture the roofing panel? Use that one foot section kind of as like a gutter, so any water that comes through is drained away (or drained into a waterer for the animals, if more creative).
I typed the following before I mulled over the 1x2 suggestion above.

There are no more cheap 1x2 boards around here, sigh. No cheap boards of any kind. I will need some for battens for the bottom 30" or so, too. I need to check a real lumber yard in another nearby town or a cedar sawmill nearby - the big box stores want $3.61 for a subpar cedar fence picket here.

Hmm. I have some free old pallets and could rip pallet boards for both battens and purlins.

You know, we tend to ignore the wood in the form of cut down branches all around us. But I saw some perches made of tree limbs on this forum yesterday. We cleared a semi-wooded overgrown section of the yard and some lower hanging limbs for this chicken coop. I wonder if I could repurpose some long straight limbs as similar purlins.

Wild brainstorming... If my better half wanted to spend the time, he could weld a tab with a drilled hole onto the cattle panel at intervals for bolts. Or how about cheap plumber's hanging strips that already have the holes drilled? I guess then you'd have to drill corresponding holes in the poly or sheet metal roofing panels. That's all a lot of work. I think the purlins of 1x2's or of wavy closure strips if we can get them makes the most sense.
My idea is to attach the panels together with 1x2 the length of the panels, attach the 1x2 to the cattle panels on inside, then lift the entire piece and fit it on top of the coop, then attach from inside the coop. the panels are just 26in. and are very light weight.
 
My idea is to attach the panels together with 1x2 the length of the panels, attach the 1x2 to the cattle panels on inside, then lift the entire piece and fit it on top of the coop, then attach from inside the coop. the panels are just 26in. and are very light weight.
Hi, ChicFil-A. (Love the names on this board, <grin>.) I'm trying to figure out how what we did is that different, other than that we attached our 1x3's across the width of our panels rather than along the length.

[ And of course we ended up using metal instead of the poly -- just because I found the metal for $10 used -- and now am wishing we'd stuck with using poly, which would have been lighter weight and let more light in the coop for the girls. When/if we move the coop to a different property, we'll have to remove the roof first, and I just might replace the metal with poly and find a different use for it.
...
Moving the whole heavy roof up top as one piece was a pain. Continuing on the thoughts of lessons learned, I'm wondering now why we bothered to use the cattle panels at all. It seemed like a very easy solution to get a roof up; but it wasn't. We still had to line the roof with hardware cloth. I just had the cattle panels here. Looking back, I think it all would have been a lot easier to just use a few more regular rafters. Maybe it was a bright idea that wasn't so bright. ]
 
Cheap boards? Where can I find some cheap boards? I need to replace some decking 2x6's and each one is anywhere from $40 to $75 each....I'm glad we finished the decks a few years ago, or I would never have been able to afford it! We have about 2,000 ft of decking, which goes all around the house, down below where there is a large "party deck" area, and then across the dirt bridge that forms the pond...that gets us over to the garden and chicken house. I can't even imagine what it would cost to build now. Oh, and I forgot to include the bridge at the north end of the pond...just that would probably cost thousands to build now...sad!

Three years ago, it would have been just silly to build this coop out of 30 year old fence panels, wouldn't it? But now, it's practical, as they were very good quality to begin with. They'll do the job and hold together for this. And I think they add a bit of rustic charm to the coop, in the little oak grove, looking out my kitchen window, lol. Luckily I don't have an HOA.

(Started a thread on coop wood, and this is exactly what we were talking about for that thread. Will continue over there if you don't mind. https://www.backyardchickens.com/threads/run-wood-choice.1573148/page-2)
 
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Hi, ChicFil-A. (Love the names on this board, <grin>.) I'm trying to figure out how what we did is that different, other than that we attached our 1x3's across the width of our panels rather than along the length.

[ And of course we ended up using metal instead of the poly -- just because I found the metal for $10 used -- and now am wishing we'd stuck with using poly, which would have been lighter weight and let more light in the coop for the girls. When/if we move the coop to a different property, we'll have to remove the roof first, and I just might replace the metal with poly and find a different use for it.
...
Moving the whole heavy roof up top as one piece was a pain. Continuing on the thoughts of lessons learned, I'm wondering now why we bothered to use the cattle panels at all. It seemed like a very easy solution to get a roof up; but it wasn't. We still had to line the roof with hardware cloth. I just had the cattle panels here. Looking back, I think it all would have been a lot easier to just use a few more regular rafters. Maybe it was a bright idea that wasn't so bright. ]
Personally I love you idea, I love the hoop coop it went up so easy, and the tarps have been great but I sure like the look of your coop. It seems to me chicken keepers are ingenious with putting things together, I plan on putting 2x3 in fencing on top of the coop with hardware cloth sides and a 9 inch apron around the parameters and the panels on top it will be preditor proof.
I will finish the coop later in the season,
 
Personally I love you idea, I love the hoop coop it went up so easy, and the tarps have been great but I sure like the look of your coop. It seems to me chicken keepers are ingenious with putting things together, I plan on putting 2x3 in fencing on top of the coop with hardware cloth sides and a 9 inch apron around the parameters and the panels on top it will be preditor proof.
I will finish the coop later in the season,
ChickFil-A what do you mean "putting 2x3 in fencing on top of the coop with HD cloth sides..." ?? Drawing? I'm a tad lost but will later try to look and see if there are any photos elsewhere on posts you've made. Hoop coops are a great idea. You know, no matter what we do here we seem to have yet another step to be done, lol.
 

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