Automatic Chicken Coop Door - Auto Closes Coop - Beta Version 1.0

I think I've about got this figured out (after months of thinking). I've had a couple of problems with prior designs I've seen. Since I will be using a chicken tractor, I can't install a constant supply of water or AC power, so those design options are out. The other problem is the expertise needed to design circuitry that makes the motor stop and start at the right time and make a motor go forward and reverse to open and close a door.

In TX, we have a few oil wells, and I was looking at a pump jack yesterday. I realized that I can use a motor going in one direction to open and close a door. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Pump_jack_animation.gif Sweet! I could attach a large wheel with a peg along the outside of the wheel that will slide a door open and closed by attaching a bar to the peg and to the door. Now I just need an accurate timer to run the motor for the precise amount of time.

They make 6V and 12V deer feeder timers that can be programed to the second: http://www.basspro.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/Product_10151_-1_10001_94669____SearchResults The timer goes off for one or more seconds, and the motor opens or closes the door as the peg rotates around the wheel. I can adjust the location of the peg (and the length of the bar) in or out from the center of the wheel to get the door to close precisely (if a second is not a small enough unit of time).

I will also have to get a lower torque motor than is used for a deer feeder, or I will have to add gears or pulleys to slow down the wheel rotation and give the motor enough mechanical advantage to open the door. Some timers will adjust the speed of the motor, so I will have to play around with it. If I add in a solar panel, I might be able to operate an automatic feeder and waterer off of the same battery.

This is all theory of course, so I will have to build it this spring and let you know how it works.

Todd
 
you would be better off stopping the rotation with switches/stops/contacts than with a timer. if it's off just a bit, over time that little bit will multiply daily.
 
I everyone, I’ve found this forum very interesting and was captivated enough to read the entire thing - which for me is very uncommon!

I work as a power engineer at a local utility company and tried to come up with some simple approaches to what, after thing about it for a while, is not so simple. I also bounced some ideas off another engineer in my office.

This is what I (we) came up with, and I realize it's not the cheapest option but it should work pretty slick. Please let me know if anyone sees anything wrong with the logic.

I've used x10 technology before and it works pretty well and consistently. So what I’d like to do is take 110v ac down to an x10 decor switch mounted outside the chicken coop which is built into our lean to on the back of the garage so the switch isn't really outside. The 110v will control a RIBU1C Enclosed Pilot Relay which in the off position will leave the 12v contacts in their at rest condition subsequently closing a small 12" linear actuator (http://www.firgelliauto.com/product_info.php?cPath=110&products_id=130) that I have on order. The linear actuator has built in stop switches that stop the action on full open and full close. What's cool about the x10 is you can download the script to a module and adjust the dusk to dawn time because I think I need to leave the door open at least 1/2 hour after dusk. Another option would be to control the relay with a photo sensor but I opted for the x10 -we'll see how that works.

My co-worker insisted that if I was going to spend $80 or so on a drapery control motor why not for a little more I get a really cool, nice looking system. I figured like most of you that this could be done for a lot less..........

The last thing I needed was a 110v ac to 12v dc power supply which surprisingly took the most amount of time to procure. Yes, I could have found one lying around the house (we have a bin full of old ac to dc transformers like I’m sure most of you) but I wanted an electronically controlled and protected transformer. These to my surprise are very expensive (Acopian for example sells them for $180). I thought about CCTV cabinets but they all have relatively small fused outputs generally under 1.5A and the motor is rated for 2.0 amps at full load. After much searching I found a 40w 12V DC 3.2A regulated switching power supply in Hong Kong with free shipping even for $15 bucks. Really what I should do is buy a metal ccvt or security cabinet to mount the relay and power supply in and then I think I’m done.

I know this is probably a Cadillac system but I think it will work great. The only issue is see is that there better be no chickens in the way when the actuator closes and if we loose power the door will stay in what ever position it was in unless I put in a rechargeable battery which would then close the door. I don’t think that’s necessary at this point. The other nice thing about this system is that if you want to open the door you just turn on the x10 switch either down at the coop or remotely from the computer. My co-worker said all I need now is a web based cam, I could count the chickens from the computer and then close or open the door accordingly – probably won’t go that route!

Actuator - $59 + shipping and mounts (because why get cheap at this point) = $80
Pilot relay - $18
Power supply - $15
X10 switch - $10 (I already had a box of these not being used)

Total minus a steel cabinet is around $130

What do you all think?

ps. my wife is a blog freak so here's the link with some pictures

http://sogkonnitechickens.blogspot.com/
 
I have built the most expensive, the most elaborate automatic coop door, it is a one of the kind, no other like it.


I have had it for 13 years now. I must admit its not the most reliable thing, it costs an arm and a leg to keep charged.

Its voice activated so that's a plus, sometimes though the voice input gets some back feed.

Its slow to get moving but once going it gets the job done.





That's right folks I have a teenage son, yes I know you want plans for this design. But no unfortunately the design plans and mold were lost in creation. But for the right price I would be willing to sell.
 
ridgefire, I like your system, but the time to development and procurement is just too long for me.
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AdamKristin, welcome and great first post!

I've been in love with the linear actuator design from the beginning. The power, speed (slow) and built in stop switches was always very appealing. The two reasons I didn't pursue them is 1) most were pretty expensive and 2) I wasn't sure how I would flip the direction of the pull / push since I've not worked with them before.

Everything else sounds like a lot of fun. It definitely is going to be a pretty robust system for the task, but if you can do it and it will be fun, then I'd say go for it and take LOTS of pics to post here!!
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My system is tied to the house main power as it sounds like yours will be. I'm wondering how much of a deal breaker that is for other chicken owners?
 
You build your own linear actuator with 1/4-20 threaded rod and a few nuts from Home Depot as long as you can find a motor to drive it. Motors are pretty easy to find for cheap on the surplus market.

As far as the direction control is concerned, if you go back a few pages in this thread to mid december or so, I have a diagram and a text explanation of how to wire two relays and limit switches so the motor can run in either direction and stop when the door gets to either end.
 
I think if cost in not really an option, why not go for those auto door systems already made. I think, as has been stated before, our goal is creating a kind of home made, affordable option.
The more this thread goes on, the more I realize, there's probably a different design for every individual and their flock.

My design is a couple months old now, and has been working pretty well save for one failure in an action switch after a heavy snowfall. After it's replacement, the system is back in working order.
 
I have four kids ages 10 and under and can't seem to get them to consistency go down to the coup to open and close the door (consistent with your reliability statement ridgefire). And to their benefit, I’ve had to clobber our rooster once or twice with a golf club to get him to stop attacking me..........not too hard but I did tell my wife that I think I have it in me to "process" him if need be. And I enjoy going down to check them out anyway their entertaining to watch but with our schedules it’s difficult to get down there at dusk and dawn.

X10 is a great inexpensive technology for home automation. If only their website didn't look like a porn site. This is how it works; you replace switches and outlets with special addressable ones and they can be operated via the computer interface, a remote control, or a downloaded module that stands alone and operates the switches based on programmed times. The system sends the information to each device over the existing wiring so all you have to do is replace the switches, address them and you're done.
http://www.x10.com/homepage.htm

A pilot relay, how I understand them at least, is nothing more than an ordinary relay enclosed in NEMA weather resistant enclosure with the wires already terminated and ready to be attached to a junction box. I figured for $18 including shipping it was an attractive alternative to less expensive not enclosed ones. This specific relay appears to be very versatile with many difference coil and contact voltages. These are designed for things like the boating industry I believe.
http://www.functionaldevices.com/pdf/RIBU1C.pdf

Nifty-Chicken – Thanks! I struggled with how to reverse the polarity as well but with the SPDT pilot relay if the relay is dead (i.e. the 110v switch in the off position) it de-energizes the coil and moves the contact to it’s at rest state consequently closing sending 12v back to the actuator and closing it. To open the door I’ll turn on the switch (remotely or manually) energizing the coil and moving the contact to the other position again sending 12v to the open lead on the actuator and with the built in limit switch the actuator stops itself on full open. I’m not sure I understand your question about power coming from the house? I have a 100A underground service feeding from my main panel down to 100A subpanel in the garage. I’ll take pictures and upload them once I get the components.

Lastly Cedarlake I really enjoyed reading your details on how to reverse polarity with the switches, relay, and motor but after thing long and hard about it the actuator in my opinion is relatively cost effective. Order it on line for $59 it comes with built in switches all self contained and has no per se’ exposed parts to be honest with you I didn’t want to have to adjust limit switches and make door adjustments etc…….and for the little extra money you get a really clean installation.

I really struggled with just buying the x10 compatible drapery assembly for $80-$100 but it looks cheesy compared to the actuator and my co-worker persuaded me to bite the bullet and do it right. Peepthis541 I also looked at this product that’s available from the UK which looked really interesting but pathetic for the amount of money they want for it after all it just winds up a string and the unwinds it nowhere as robust as a “linear actuator” (although I really didn’t put forth the effort to calculate the cost of it in US money. http://www.chicken-house.co.uk/acatalog/Automatic_Door_Openers.html#a13
 
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