Best treatment for gapeworm?

Well the vets never even got back in contact with me which I'm very angry and upset about. I don't know what to do now
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http://www.archive.org/stream/gapewormoffowlss00walkrich/gapewormoffowlss00walkrich_djvu.txt

If you are a reader like me, and really want info on the gapes...as it was formally known...now known as gapeworm...the above article is long but awesome read! It gives you a full study and backs up all they say with actual results...you will have to scroll down quite a bit to get to the actual article, but it sure is chocker block full of interesting and really useful info!

It was neat to read why we salted our "runs" back in the day..my Daddy never told me why, just to go do it
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...now I know!

If there is anything you want to know about the gapes...the above link will provide it! Happy reading
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Oh forgot, safeguard liquid, for goats, wormer...3 ml per gallon of water, for 2 days, repeat in 10 days. I would suggest repeating 3-4 times if necessary at ten day increments. That is, if you really think this is the gapes. Hope you get to the bottom of this! The point of retreating is to kill the eggs...the eggs don't even stay in fowl, just the worms and come from infested earthworms...maybe some other pests now, but earthworms were the primary vector.

In colder climates, if you treat a run with salt, according to the directions on the link, by spring, no more gapes! If you free range and have a gapes problem area, well, you might just have to treat on a regular basis, when you see the gapes starting up. That is, if you really think this is what it is. Nasty little buggers if you ask me...yuckkkk!!!
 
Thank so much! Although after what others have said I'm not sure it is gapeworm.
If the vets even bother to ring me this morning I'll hopefully be able to get some tylan and try that.

Is there any other illnesses I can check for at home? For fungal infections would I see anything in the throat? Any other symptoms?

Thank you :)
 
Update.

This morning she didn't come out the coop, and although her eyes look bright and alert, I noticed one of them kept flickering and she kept scratching at it and twitching, on closer inspection she had a few bubbles in the corner. Definitely sounds like something that needs ABs.

I'm wondering though if this isn't the same thing my other girl has. For my Orp this has been going on for 3-4 days and she went downhill quickly. For my other hen she's beenl rattling with the occasional gape and odd sneeze for 7-8 weeks, yet still eats like a horse, lays her eggs, runs round like a lunatic and seems completely fine in every other way? x
 
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If they aren't feeling well, they won'r eat/drink enough and this is what usially does them in and why I always tube feed when they stop eating and drinking.

-Kathy
 
Thanks Kathy :) I've been hand feeding her some mash but she doesn't want any today. What sort of food do you tube feed? Just layers mash? How much should I give a day? x
 
I use Kaytee Exaxt Baby Bird Food because it's soooooo much easier to get through the tube than crumbles. As for amount, a safe amount to give seems to be about 30ml per kg, but I do have one hen that weighs about 1kg and she can tolerate 120ml twice a day. When in doubt, start with 5 or 10ml, make sure it clears the crop, then give more. Never overfill as vomiting and aspiration from vomiting can occur!

Important notes:
  • Always correct hydration first if they haven't been drinking, which is usually the case.
  • Check crop before giving fluids/food. If full of food, just give fluids until crop is clear.

Two great threads on how to tube feed:



-Kathy
 
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Thank you so much for all your help Kathy!

I just gave her layers mash with a little sugar and poultry spice in for now. I've been checking her crop daily, it was completely empty this morning, my mum saw her have a little drink earlier but she was still pretty much empty before I fed her.
I just syringe fed, she's wonderful at being syringe fed, doesn't mind at all (also GREAT for taking medicine, which is good!). I give her about 25mls of mash, and then about 30mls of water, then she had a little run around the garden which perked her up. I'll give her some more food and water before bed.

Her poops look okay, little on the watery side and small, but nothing that concerns me.

Her breathing sounds a ton better and she's not sneezing, her eye is still bothering her though.

Have rang the vets AGAIN and STILL waiting for a vet to call me back. This has been the worst service I've ever experienced at a vets before x
 
If you make the food runny enough, 30ml/kg three times a day should be enough to keep her hydrated and keep her from losing weight.

-Kathy
 

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