Blight resistant tomato experiences

[Al Capon]

I ordered from Totally Tomatoes this year, they were reasonable and quick, have the packets sitting in front of me.

$15 bucks seems like a lot, until you lag behind and have to purchase plants from Lowes or Home Depot. I had to buy 10 plants last year because of bad scheduling, cost was $3-$4 per plant. I couldn't believe it. They were out of the six packs, I had to buy the larger plant singles.

Will be growing from seed from here on out, calendar permitting.

 

[R2elk]

I always try a couple of new to me tomatoes every year. This year I am expecting to try Bobcat and Legend. Both are listed at 68 days and Legend "has shown some tolerance of late blight fungi US8 and US11." Numerous reviews disclaim the blight resistance.

My reason for trying these are the short season and large tomato claims.

 

[Acre4Me]

I ordered some seeds from Sandhill preservation this year. I’ve not used their seeds yet, and purchased only 2 tomato varieties. However, they overfill their packages and they indicate this on their site. They have a seed special listed in the tomato category:

“2019 Seed special: any 10 different seed packets of red tomatoes $15.00 Any 20 different $27.50, Any 30 different $40.00”

They indicate 25 seeds per pack (but usually 50+ seeds).

All the seed packs I received of all veg were overfilled, so should have plenty of starts.

I’ve ordered heirloom seeds before (different supplier) with moderate success, so we will see how these turn out. The order has to be filled out on paper and then snail-mailed with a check. I sent order beginning of 3rd week of December and received seeds end of 1st week Jan.

Good luck with your tomatoes!

 

[Arielle2]

While I don't have a perfect system, and I keep learning, here are how I do things to help.

Mulch under tomatoes using pine shavings from a carpentry shop. ( Only pine ) Keeps soil moist and prevents splashing soil up onto the plants.

Remove all foliage below the first flower, and sometimes if that is very low, I have removed it. My thinking is better to have a healthy plant that will produce than risk it all over one cluster. I like a penny scissor or pruners.

I have been looking for control methods. Apparently spraying with baking soda can prevent or even slow down a blight infection. I have not tested this yet. Just found this last week. It may hold some promise as the University of Wisconsin is testing potassium bicarbonate as a fungal control on apple trees. I don't have the amt of baking soda to water at hand. but it is basically to spray every 2 weeks, somehow changing the pH of the leave surface and thereby making an inhospitable haven for mold spores.

Also, it has occurred to me to look for blight resistant varieties. Late blight and Early blight are not the same. More and more hybrids that are late blight resistant are coming onto the market, and are VERY expensive seed. Clearly worth it for the commercial growers.

Lurking many sources of descriptions for the OP/heirlooms often a note about blight is listed. Planning to start a list as I find them.

Also I ask at the best tomato info place I know Tomatoville, where MANY knowledgeable people hang out that know everything tomato. A polite and caring bunch there.

Helping the plant fight off disease via very good health is a plus. I'm still learning my soils and how to keep tomatoes de-stressed. Adequate moisture at all times; adequate Ca and other micronutrients via compost, eggshells etc. ( I throw my kitchen waste including bones into the compost). Soils often lack magnesium and potassium-- learning how to supplement those. Or to not supplement. The right spacing.

Basically Im learning how to build a very healthy soil for the plants, to they can be healthy and fight off disease.

From a university study--Keep leaves thinned to allow air flow thru which keeps the plants drying faster after a rain or dew. Open up plant to let sunlight onto every leaves. Seems that if the small plants are staked upright, the remaining leaves will protect the fruit better than letting the plant lay over. The FLorida weave is easy, and a bit faster than staking individual plants.

I think about how the air moves thru my gardens. This property is sloped, down to a big river 1/2 mile away. The air warms in the morning and moves up hill, then cools in evening and moves down hill. That is a north south movement. THis is separate from the prevailing winds, which is from the west.

Hope this all gives some ideas and you have better results this year.

 

[Arielle2]

I ordered some seeds from Sandhill preservation this year. I’ve not used their seeds yet, and purchased only 2 tomato varieties. However, they overfill their packages and they indicate this on their site. They have a seed special listed in the tomato category:

“2019 Seed special: any 10 different seed packets of red tomatoes $15.00 Any 20 different $27.50, Any 30 different $40.00”

They indicate 25 seeds per pack (but usually 50+ seeds).

All the seed packs I received of all veg were overfilled, so should have plenty of starts.

I’ve ordered heirloom seeds before (different supplier) with moderate success, so we will see how these turn out. The order has to be filled out on paper and then snail-mailed with a check. I sent order beginning of 3rd week of December and received seeds end of 1st week Jan.

Good luck with your tomatoes!

This is a preservation farmer, Well he is actually a teacher that is dedicated to keeping the OP, especially the heirlooms going. He is not about making money. So just print out a form, or hand write one copying the forms, and mail in payment.

 

[ChocolateMouse]

Well, I ended up getting my seeds from seeds n such, they arrived in a timely manner and I'm getting ready to throw some in dirt this week!

 

[Arielle2]

here is source of info on baking soda. Again, I have NOT tried this.

 

[ChocolateMouse]

Thanks, I've seen that suggestion before and tried using it last year and it wasn't super successful but by that points my plants were already in bad shape so who knows.

 

[Arielle2]

Good to know on the less than successful control of the blight once it was established-- do you think it slowed the progression of the disease???? How did you you manage the disease otherwise???

AND WHAT SEEDS DID YOU BUY???

 

[Arielle2]

Here is organic methods of managing pests with wonderful examples of types of leaf damage using real leaves from Charles dowding's garden.

Looks like I will need more than just fleece...... but I did look up a reasonably fleece: reasonable cost, and reasonable amount!!! My ambition was to get MORE, but realized 250 feet is Five 50 foot beds.

https://www.greenhousemegastore.com/row-cover-deluxe-gr--rc05