Cookie Tin water heater

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hooligans7, I'm in Sherwood Arkansas, just north of North Little Rock, just noticed where your location is.
 
I like this idea, with a few tweaks for safety. http://youtu.be/CNoDGd0g4qQ I would use bricks underneath it instead of plywood, and I would secure the light bulb inside so it won't jostle around. If it was on all the time, I think it would "double" as a warmer for the chickens also. I bought a timer (a timer on an 8 outlet surge protector) for the bulb, so I can plug in the water heater device, and put the timer on the light ( for egg laying).
 
hooligans7, I'm in Sherwood Arkansas, just north of North Little Rock, just noticed where your location is.
Hi, neighbor. We're in the hills of northern Izard county. We relocated from Tulsa five years ago, and hope we'll be here permanently.
We have a little flock, just five hens and a rooster, but the girls give us all the fresh eggs we could ever want, usually 3 to 5 per day. The three BRs are in their prime, and the two younger BSLs are reliable layers as well.
Let us know if you pursue the solar-powered water heater!
 
I like this idea, with a few tweaks for safety. http://youtu.be/CNoDGd0g4qQ I would use bricks underneath it instead of plywood, and I would secure the light bulb inside so it won't jostle around. If it was on all the time, I think it would "double" as a warmer for the chickens also. I bought a timer (a timer on an 8 outlet surge protector) for the bulb, so I can plug in the water heater device, and put the timer on the light ( for egg laying).
You might also consider a Thermo Cube, Model TC-3. All the info is here — http://www.amazon.com/Farm-Innovators-TC-3-Thermostatically-Controlled/dp/B0006U2HD2
The Thermo Cube eliminates all worries associated with overheating. For best temperature control of your water heater, it's best to locate it inside of your coop.
 
Sorry I missed your post. I am in the process of making bigger and better light bulb water heaters because now I have more chickens and bigger founts. I am also in the process of slowing down the breeze through the coop,.to see if that will keep the water in liquid state. I will post again with pictures and my explanations for why I am doing it.

db
 
I used a popcorn tin for the extra height.
Perfect for my deep litter in the coop.





Inside, I mounted a light reflector, using the reflector, cord, and socket.




I use a standard double wall 2 gallon waterer

I also use a thermo cube for heat control




I use a 38 watt halogen flood for heat source.
Now readily available.


I find that when activated, the cold metal waterer, will form condensation on its bottom.

This condensation will continue until it creates a puddle on the popcorn tin heater.

Direct contact is then formed between the tin and the waterer through the condensation puddle.

This "direct contact" creates excellent heat transfer from the hot tin to the waterer.

The tin never gets more than warm to the touch after the puddle is formed.

Has worked great, my coldest temp recorded was -6F in the coop.

The water was not frozen.
 
How often do you have to change the light bulb?

I went through a lot of bulbs last winter because they'd shatter, I assumed because of the cold temperatures but I didn't have negative temps yet you all seem to get thawed water from 38 watt bulbs. I want to use my heaters again this winter (going to get them out tomorrow but don't need them on yet so I'm not planning on putting a bulb in yet). I can't find the old incandescent bulbs around here, but I've used 37 watt flood lights, (burned out), oven/fridge 40 watt bulbs (one burned out, one shattered and have to unplug and carefully stick finger in to unscrew since I didn't have any potatoes handy), and then since the low wattage bulbs weren't working, I went with higher ones but still no luck. I tried cheap bulbs as well as more expensive ones. Eventually, I ended up using the brooder light bulbs to keep the waterers thawed but then that encouraged one chicken to roost under the bulb (and poop in the water).

CG
 
How often do you have to change the light bulb?

I went through a lot of bulbs last winter because they'd shatter, I assumed because of the cold temperatures but I didn't have negative temps yet you all seem to get thawed water from 38 watt bulbs. I want to use my heaters again this winter (going to get them out tomorrow but don't need them on yet so I'm not planning on putting a bulb in yet). I can't find the old incandescent bulbs around here, but I've used 37 watt flood lights, (burned out), oven/fridge 40 watt bulbs (one burned out, one shattered and have to unplug and carefully stick finger in to unscrew since I didn't have any potatoes handy), and then since the low wattage bulbs weren't working, I went with higher ones but still no luck. I tried cheap bulbs as well as more expensive ones. Eventually, I ended up using the brooder light bulbs to keep the waterers thawed but then that encouraged one chicken to roost under the bulb (and poop in the water).

CG

The "rough service" incandescent bulbs in 60, 75, and 100 watts are still available in most hardware and big-box stores like Home Depot. Those bulbs have a more robust filament, and are commonly used for garage door openers and corded trouble lights.
 
And they don't have teflon coatings? I just bought 85W red flood lights and it turns out that they won't fit in the opening (just a tiny bit bigger than the flood lights I've used before I guess) so they'll have to go back to Walmart. I'll try to look for rough service bulbs as my replacement.

CG

Only the shatterproof type have teflon coatings; most of the others have no coating.
Here's a link — http://www.walmart.com/c/ep/rough-service-light-bulbs
 

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