Coop started--just beginning stages--going crazy w/q's!!!

ducks4you

Songster
11 Years
Jan 20, 2009
1,572
80
236
East Central Illinois
I've been on this site a long time, but I've cheated with a coop, a little like James T. Kirk and The Kobayashi Maru scenario (are you reading this, wifezilla?!?!). Now, I'm in earnest. I know it's gonna get done, but I need to ask some questions. Hope you can help and any suggestions are welcome.
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1) Can you have too many windows and too much light in my coop?
(Here is the building I am rebuilding, and it has windows on three walls.)
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I am making the floor from 2 x 6 tongue-in-groove, and it will rest on 4 x 6 beams supported by nine, 6 inch thick cement blocks.
2) Should I be concerned about predators or pests attempting to get to my birds through the floor? Bear in mind that this area is in front of my barn (2007 picture, before new fencing),
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ABOVE, old shots, BELOW, last week--10 x 20 run, coop will be built adjacent to and in front of this:
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I have cats on night patrol, and a photoelectic night light.
3) When I put in my vinyl floor remnant, if it doesn't fit, and I have to piece it, what do I use to connect the seams?
This coop is going to be heavy, tall enough for an adult to comfortably walk into, so...
4) How would I use an automatic feeder, like the pvc type? ...or should I bother?
I'm sure I'll think of some more, later. Thanks.
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sounds like your onto a good start! good luck
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i answered some of your questions right after yours...
 
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The only downside I see to lots of windows is if you have a rooster, he'll crow earlier because it will be lighter in the coop earlier. But if you just have girls, the windows will be a plus in the winter letting light in which means more eggs!

My coops are raised with wood floors and I haven't had any issues of something getting through the floor. (or trying to)

If you are using the vinyl glue to put it down, just make sure you get it tacked down really well where the seams are.

I don't have automatic feeder, so
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Windows are good. Especially if they allow air in/out for ventilation, and can be closed during the winter to keep the coop warmer. Mine are covered with hardware cloth and I have plexiglas inserts I put in during the winter. There is other ventilation at the top of one long wall, so closing off the windows doesn't STOP the ventilation process.

My coop floor is raised, and is wood, predators aren't gonna get into the coop that way. I do have hardware cloth completely around the bottom of the coop except for access from the inside of the chicken run. (For bantams or youngish chicks to escape from horn-dog roosters, or just to play or cool down on hot days.)

Duct tape. It fixes most everything.
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I have two types of auto-feeders: a 5 gallon bucket with a 20 in. plant saucer bottom, out in the run for the general population, and an ABS pipe feeder in the main coop. Here's a photo of the latter, which takes up very little floor space in the coop:
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The 5 gallon feeder will take almost half of a 50# sack of feed, and all it needs is the occasional shake to make sure the feed is flowing out of the four holes along the bottom of the bucket.
 
I like your auto feeder. I know there's a link for plans, but don't remember where (on the forum)--do you know? BTW,
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what's the black cap hovering in the air for?
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