Corrugated Steel Roof Panel

[Krugerrand]

One caution given your location.

Given the amount of moisture the chickens eliminate it is not unusual to get condensation on the underside of the steel sheets in cooler temperatures; can drip and put the humidity back inside the coop. Given the small size of the coop I would add the deck sheeting (either OSB or plywood) and eliminate any chance of this.

While it is true that many outbuilding use purloins only it is also used on homes, etc. all of which will have deck sheeting.

Generally one should have 1 sq. ft of ventilation PER BIRD.

If I use the plywood deck sheeting and some roof felt on top of that, how much shorter should I cut the sheeting compared to the roof? Is one upside-down U sufficient to be extended beyond the sheeting? I figure if it goes too far, it could lose structural support and bend. How far beyond the bottom of the sheeting should the metal roof extend?

Your diagram does not provide much detail but the ridge cap you show is intended for equal slopes both side. It is somewhat flexible but the angles will not match what is shown in your diagram; you will have to "force fit" and securely screw it in place.

My plan is to make the slopes equal - or at least really close to it.

 

[perkolator]

I have corrugated roof on my coop and have used corrugated metal for various projects - if you plan to put the panels over those joists that run parallel to the corrugation, it will definitely sag between them where it's unsupported - even at 12" spacing like you mentioned. Also because it's not supported, the corrugation can bend/flatten out, it could become "looser" over time - which could flop in the wind or sag with snow weight on it, which I'd imagine would oval the holes where the mounting hardware is at, since you typically don't secure them so tight that it crushes the corrugation.

Feel free to take a look at my build if you need to see something, but since it's a coop I just went with the most basic construction -- some joists spaced wide around 24", then installed 1x4 purlins and screwed the roof panels directly to those. No plywood, no underlayment, etc.

 

[Alaskan]

I worry a bit about that coop being too small, and not enough ventilation.

From what I understand it gets hot there in the summer... at which point one wall of solid wire would be nice.

Also... when it is cold and snowy chickens don't always like to come out of the coop. If you have a roofed run planned, then a smaller coop can work.

But if the run will not be roofed, a much bigger coop is needed.

As for roofing... if ever in doubt of your skills or the quality of materials, make it steep so the snow slides right off.

 

[Ted Brown]

If I use the plywood deck sheeting and some roof felt on top of that, how much shorter should I cut the sheeting compared to the roof? Is one upside-down U sufficient to be extended beyond the sheeting? I figure if it goes too far, it could lose structural support and bend. How far beyond the bottom of the sheeting should the metal roof extend?

I normally extend the steel 1" past the deck sheeting whether that is along the ends or sides.

 

[Krugerrand]

I worry a bit about that coop being too small, and not enough ventilation.

From what I understand it gets hot there in the summer... at which point one wall of solid wire would be nice.

Also... when it is cold and snowy chickens don't always like to come out of the coop. If you have a roofed run planned, then a smaller coop can work.

But if the run will not be roofed, a much bigger coop is needed.

As for roofing... if ever in doubt of your skills or the quality of materials, make it steep so the snow slides right off.

We typically only get a handful of days over 90-degrees in a year.

It's 5 sq ft of 24x7 ventilation + whatever I frame out in windows for 4 on-the-smaller-side chickens (2 golden comets, 1 easter egger, 1 silkie.) That does not include the pop-door. That's all ventilation off the top so that they aren't getting drafts.

Yes, they will have a roofed-run completely encased in 1/2 hardware cloth + apron. I'll keep some trail cameras on the place to assist in watching what predators are around. I may give them 24 hr access to the secured run. They'll eventually have some limited opportunity to free-range when people can be with them.

 

[Alaskan]

We typically only get a handful of days over 90-degrees in a year.

It's 5 sq ft of 24x7 ventilation + whatever I frame out in windows for 4 on-the-smaller-side chickens (2 golden comets, 1 easter egger, 1 silkie.) That does not include the pop-door. That's all ventilation off the top so that they aren't getting drafts.

Yes, they will have a roofed-run completely encased in 1/2 hardware cloth + apron. I'll keep some trail cameras on the place to assist in watching what predators are around. I may give them 24 hr access to the secured run. They'll eventually have some limited opportunity to free-range when people can be with them.

That is nice...

For some reason I though your area of the world got hotter.

And though yes, in the winter you do not want a draft at perch level.... in the summer a breeze at perch level is great.

You might want to shift a window so that they can have a breeze at ground level and perch level in the summer.

With a secure roofed run... yes, that coop size will work.