Design idea contributions requested for plastic shed coop design please.

[Moon Daizy]

Hello everyone

I would love to hear the opinions and advice of seasoned chicken keepers please! (I have searched this site far and wide for information that I'm looking for, but have not found it all exactly, hence the post).

Basic info: Location, Chicken numbers/breeds etc
We are looking to get apx 4 - 6 large chicken breeds, like Orpington, Plymouth barred rock, Colombian Blacktail hybrids or similar this year, and are desperately trying to get everything ready so we are ready when the girls are - but trying not to rush things at the same time! We live in south U.K.; so fairly mild and wet.

Coop Plans So Far
For various reasons, I have opted for a plastic shed for our coop, rather than a wooden coop or a wooden shed. I am hoping this turns out to be a good decision! Red mites were a consideration, as was ease of cleaning out, and maintenance. And costs of buying a stand-alone coop didn't appeal, especially as I would need storage space for their food, DE etc, AND a coop AND a whole section of fence and other things to make the run. Costs just add up

The shed is yet to be delivered so the pictures are from the manufacturer's website. It will be delivered next week..! Eggciting!

I have ordered an omlet automatic door, which we will attach to the side and my hubby is going to work his cleverness by switching out the batteries for a solar panel... but more importantly...

• Ventilation....:
  I have ordered 2x tumble drier style vents to attach at the back of the shed near the roof line. It already has two vents at either end of the shed. I will cover all the vents with insect cloth. The window of the shed I intend to do something with - fully removable for the summer (I will attach hardwire over the gap for sure), but I might make it so I can pop it back in there for winter. I am conscious that the black colour of the shed will make it hotter in the sun - good in the winter, bad in the summer, so I know the ventilation will need to be flexible and adequate.
  
  I was intending on having the back of the shed, with the tumble drier vents facing the prevailing wind so no driving rain can get into the coop, but fresh air should still make it in there. The back of the shed will be up against a feather-board fence so will be partly sheltered anyway.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  Ventilation Q1: Does it matter about prevailing winds? Like, does the way you position your coop and/or the vents matter, does the prevailing wind direction have any bearing on these things?

Ventilation Q2: Do you think this will be adequate ventilation? Or is it the case that more is more, when it comes to chickens? If more - what advice can you give? How would you experienced chicken keepers do it?​

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• Lighting...:
  That window is tiny, and will likely be facing North. I think I need to add more windows.... Has anyone any experience of how you would do this for a resin shed? If I cut pieces out of the plastic, I am not sure what I could attach to it in terms of windows. Maybe perspex?
  
  
• Coop internal design...:
  I intend to separate the shed coop into thirds: two thirds for the girls, and one third for storage. I'm trying to work out how I can get a brooder in the storage part, so the girls can see any broody hens/chicks through the wire. I will start doing some scale drawing plans soon.
  
  We are going to include poop boards with a lip, caulked etc so no grime gets in the cracks. Thanks for 'Dobie lover' for her amazing article and coop build for the inspiration there. I will build all-same-level roosting bars over the poop boards. I do not intend to have any food or water in the coop, to avoid extra humidity in there, and to encourage the girls to go outside. They will have a fully predator proof run, with composting area, as part of their regularly accessible run area.
  
  I intend to do deep litter method in there.
  
  I have not worked out how the nest boxes will be. I home educate my two children, and this will be an assignment they will be involved in after Easter - I really want them to feel included, as so far the fence and run and groundworks have not been child labour suitable
  
  
  Internal design Q1: If anyone has any advice on how to include all of these things (poop boards, same level perches, nest boxes, brooder area, storage) into a small space I would really appreciate the inspiration!!

Think that's everything.... for now!!

Looking forward to receiving your (constructive) feedback. Thanks in advance

 

[rosemarythyme]

You're going to want more ventilation, aim for a minimum of 1 sq ft (0.09 sq meter) per bird. And yes I personally would want additional windows or large vents to provide extra light inside, both for my own ease of use and to encourage birds to return to the coop at night. I have no experience working with plastic though, so not sure what to suggest as far as how to add vents and windows to a structure like this.

Not sure what "insect cloth" is but if it's not wire that's 1/2" or smaller you're possibly risking predator or pest intrusion? Not sure what predators and pests you'd be dealing with so that may or may not be as big an issue for you in the UK.

 

[Blue is my chicken]

I am not sure but maybe @Miss Lydia @sourland @WVduckchick @Eggcessive @GirlsHuntToo could help?
Hope someone can answer your questions

 

[Debbie292d]

A ventilation consideration:

The reason for ventilation is chicken poo is high in ammonia and secondly, humidity has to stay low to prevent respiratory illnesses.

That said, we've been through it and it was so bad in our coop when we started 8 years ago, I'm surprised our silkies lived. Mold can start growing at 70%. Our coop was in the 80-90%. We had mold growing on the walls and the windows wept.

We have an Amish shed for a coop with a steel roof and hubby refused to cut into it. We installed an exhaust fan in one of the windows, a panel vent in the human door, ditched the waterers and made a DYI 5-gallon nipple bucket, and put down 2" of horse bedding pellets. No matter how humid it is now, our coop stays in the 50s and 60s. That's possible because there is no open water and the horse bedding pellets absorb the poop/moisture. We also use stall refresher on top of the nest boxes where they roost.

Thus, my point is that if you don't have any ammonia and no humidity problem, you still need some ventilation, but it's not nearly as crucial.

 

[Loving my girls]

hi there,
We did a self build hen house too. It’s sooo much fun.
As it’s plastic I would recommend lots of up high ventilation based on the hot air lifts principle.
I would also change/rodent proof mesh on any windows. Insect mesh just won’t do it unfortunately.
I have spoken to hubby and he asks if the sides are hollow strip plastic or solid sheets ? This will determine how the windows can be set into it. He suspects it will be hollow but let us know. He is having a look on the Homebase /Wicks site to show you what you will need.
I will get back to you
Hugz

 

[Moon Daizy]

You're going to want more ventilation, aim for a minimum of 1 sq ft (0.09 sq meter) per bird. And yes I personally would want additional windows or large vents to provide extra light inside, both for my own ease of use and to encourage birds to return to the coop at night. I have no experience working with plastic though, so not sure what to suggest as far as how to add vents and windows to a structure like this.

Not sure what "insect cloth" is but if it's not wire that's 1/2" or smaller you're possibly risking predator or pest intrusion? Not sure what predators and pests you'd be dealing with so that may or may not be as big an issue for you in the UK.

Thank you for your reply

The insect cloth is like mosquito netting, to cover the vents, to stop insects and flies entering the coop. The coop will be inside the fully predator proof run, which will be protected with 1/2" fox-proof 12guage wire including a no dig skirt, and a chicken wire roof, so I'm hoping it's just the flying gnat kind of predators that can make it as far as the coop!

I will try to add more vents and windows! If I work out how I can share my experience for others

 

[Moon Daizy]

A ventilation consideration:

The reason for ventilation is chicken poo is high in ammonia and secondly, humidity has to stay low to prevent respiratory illnesses.

That said, we've been through it and it was so bad in our coop when we started 8 years ago, I'm surprised our silkies lived. Mold can start growing at 70%. Our coop was in the 80-90%. We had mold growing on the walls and the windows wept.

We have an Amish shed for a coop with a steel roof and hubby refused to cut into it. We installed an exhaust fan in one of the windows, a panel vent in the human door, ditched the waterers and made a DYI 5-gallon nipple bucket, and put down 2" of horse bedding pellets. No matter how humid it is now, our coop stays in the 50s and 60s. That's possible because there is no open water and the horse bedding pellets absorb the poop/moisture. We also use stall refresher on top of the nest boxes where they roost.

Thus, my point is that if you don't have any ammonia and no humidity problem, you still need some ventilation, but it's not nearly as crucial.

Thank you- that's interesting! I am aware of horse bedding, the kind of nuggets that swell up when they get moist and absorb the moisture, I was thinking of using these as I don't want any ammonia or respiratory problems. I know how bad ammonia can build up, from when I kept Guinea pigs as a kid. I guess this is another reason I didn't want a wooden shed, although Guinea pig wee is a lot different to bird poop!! We have a parrot though so I also know how much birds poop!!

 

[Debbie292d]

Thank you- that's interesting! I am aware of horse bedding, the kind of nuggets that swell up when they get moist and absorb the moisture, I was thinking of using these as I don't want any ammonia or respiratory problems. I know how bad ammonia can build up, from when I kept Guinea pigs as a kid. I guess this is another reason I didn't want a wooden shed, although Guinea pig wee is a lot different to bird poop!! We have a parrot though so I also know how much birds poop!!

We have two macaws and use a kitty litter box filled with the horse bedding pellets for their main poop spots. There we have to stir them as they don't, but in the coop, the chickens take care of that. We also use them in our brooder when the chicks are about 4-5 days old. Game changer there!

 

[Loving my girls]

hi there,
We did a self build hen house too. It’s sooo much fun.
As it’s plastic I would recommend lots of up high ventilation based on the hot air lifts principle.
I would also change/rodent proof mesh on any windows. Insect mesh just won’t do it unfortunately.
I have spoken to hubby and he asks if the sides are hollow strip plastic or solid sheets ? This will determine how the windows can be set into it. He suspects it will be hollow but let us know. He is having a look on the Homebase /Wicks site to show you what you will need.
I will get back to you
Hugz

Hi Me again,
Some pictures for you, let me know if my scribbles don’t make sense,

 

[Moon Daizy]

hi there,
We did a self build hen house too. It’s sooo much fun.
As it’s plastic I would recommend lots of up high ventilation based on the hot air lifts principle.
I would also change/rodent proof mesh on any windows. Insect mesh just won’t do it unfortunately.
I have spoken to hubby and he asks if the sides are hollow strip plastic or solid sheets ? This will determine how the windows can be set into it. He suspects it will be hollow but let us know. He is having a look on the Homebase /Wicks site to show you what you will need.
I will get back to you
Hugz

Thanks for the input, I look forward to hearing from you/him!
I think the shed walls are hollow, but it didn't say double walled per se on the description unlike Keter sheds. But for strength I suspect it's a little bit like corrugated cardboard... only plastic! I intend to do all the modifications to the panels before I assemble them.

The insert cloth, I'm hoping, will be okay as we've used 1/2" rodent proof wire round the run, but I guess a second layer of rat deterrent wouldn't hurt! Can easily switch it out as I will have lots of wire left over.

Look forward to hearing from you again soon - thanks for your reply!