First Time Coop Builder / Chicken Keeper

[ChickensRDinosaurs]

Hi Everyone!

I am designing my first coop and would like some guidance for those of you that have experience!

I live near Sudbury and right now my main concern is how to build the coop properly for winter. I've seen lots of info saying the ladies will share body heat to keep the coop warm, but I'm only planning on having 6 birds and I don't know if their body heat will be enough.

I'm looking at building a mobile coop with a run attached, so I can move it around my yard, and then secure it in one location over winter near electricity on my property in order to run a heat lamp / water warmer as needed on the really cold days.

I'm having some trouble sizing my coop as well, as I want the birds to have enough space but not have it so big that it's freezing cold the whole time. I'm currently planning on ~6sqft per bird inside the coop? Also, insulated roof and walls or is uninsulated okay? Any advice would really be appreciated. I'd also love suggestions for breeds that are cold-hardy, but also won't be collapsing in the summer heat as well.

I've attached a photo of a coop / run build that I'm using as reference for my design. I found a children's play fort on my property that I'm going to take down and rebuild into my coop to save start-up costs!

Thanks in advance for the advice !

 

[DobieLover]

The tractor that you posted does not look like it offers 6 sq ft per bird in the coop. It looks like it offers that in the run and that's not enough. They need 10 sq ft at a bare minimum but 15 is always much much better.
You need a coop that offers 3.5-4 sq ft in the coop.

saying the ladies will share body heat to keep the coop warm

This is not true. The birds fluff their own feathers to trap their own body heat. What you need to keep birds comfortable and healthy in the winter in cold climates is a very well ventilated coop that allows the moist stale air to escape.

run a heat lamp

This is a huge fire hazard and should not be necessary in a properly designed coop.
Having something to keep the water unfrozen is necessary but that water should never be kept inside the coop. It must be kept out in the run.
This is my uninsulated, well ventilated, coop that holds as many as 29 birds.
It has a ridge vent, soffit vents, as well as gable end vents and two windows that are left cracked open that are not near the roosting sites.
My birds have experienced several sub-zero nights in this coop. Down to -15.
No issues.

uninsulated okay

This is perfectly okay.

breeds that are cold-hardy

Australorps
Wyandottes
Eater Eggers (not actually a breed)
Chanteclers
Orpingtons
Rocks of any color

 

[ChickensRDinosaurs]

Thank you so much for your reply! There's so much info on the internet and in books it's hard to know what applies to my situation! Will the birds travel outside of the coop to get food / water even if it's cold outside? Thanks again

 

[AinaWGSD]

I remember my first winter with chickens and the first day that was cold enough that I thought I'd keep the chickens in the coop. I went out to offer warm breakfast and...they met me at the gate to the run. I had forgotten to close the pop door the night before. I thought it was too cold to be out, they clearly disagreed.

Insulation won't be necessary, but if you put plywood up on the inside it will create an air pocket between the outer and inner walls which will act as an insulator. For keeping a flock healthy during the winter ventilation is much more important.

Woods style coops are an open air type coop design that have been successfully used for over 100 years in areas as far north as Maine. This is the style of coop we had out at the farm and have never had any problems with the chickens in the winter.

 

[DobieLover]

Will the birds travel outside of the coop to get food / water even if it's cold outside?

Yes. You will also want to winterize the run by covering it in either shower curtains or reinforced polyethylene sheets. You leave the top six or so inches open for ventilation.

 

[ChickensRDinosaurs]

Thank you!

 

[Ridgerunner]

I live near Sudbury

I'm not sure if you are in Sudbury England or Sudbury Massachusetts. Two different climates. Or maybe somewhere else.

I've seen lots of info saying the ladies will share body heat to keep the coop warm,

You can read a lot on the internet. Some internet information is accurate but that is not correct. Their down keeps individual birds warm once they are fully feathered out. They need to be out of the wind and dry. That changes some if you get to -20 F (-29 C) but most of us don't see those temperatures.

I'm looking at building a mobile coop with a run attached, so I can move it around my yard, and then secure it in one location over winter near electricity on my property in order to run a heat lamp / water warmer as needed on the really cold days.

I don't know what you consider a cold day. That would be good information to have. Many people use something to keep water thawed but many do not, even in climates where water can freeze. There can be other options but what temperatures are you working with?

I use a heat lamp in my coop when I have baby chicks that need the warmth. I typically turn it off when they hit 5 weeks of age, even when the temperatures are approaching freezing. If they have feathered out, have been acclimated, are dry, and are out of the wind they don't need the heat. Some people do that at 4 weeks of age but I'm not that brave.

Some of us water only in the coop while some water only in the run. I have water both in the coop and in the run. We all have different flocks, different set-ups, different climates, and different goals. What works for one if us might not work for others due to these differences but usually there are many different ways to do about anything that work and usually work well.

I'm having some trouble sizing my coop as well, as I want the birds to have enough space but not have it so big that it's freezing cold the whole time.

Cold is not your concern. I find the tighter I pack them the more behavioral issues I have to deal with, the harder I have to work, and the less flexibility I have to deal with things that happen. I've seen recommendations anywhere from 1 to 15 square feet per chicken in the coop section only and just as wild recommendations for the run. 4 square feet in the coop and 10 square feet per chicken in the run are probably the most quoted on this forum. Most of the time these minimums will work, but each chicken has its own personality, each flock has its own make-up, we have different climates and goals. Sometimes that is plenty of room, sometimes it is not enough.

Also, insulated roof and walls or is uninsulated okay?

People can have strong feelings one way or another but either can work. What you really need, summer and winter, is adequate ventilation. Warm air rises and carries moisture with it. In summer you want the heat to escape, in winter you want the moisture to escape. So you want permanent openings up high. In winter you do not want a cold breeze hitting your chickens on the roost. A breeze can ruffle their feathers and allow the air trapped in their down that is insulating them against cold to escape. In summer that is not important, they probably welcome breezes as long as it is not a thunderstorm.

I'd also love suggestions for breeds that are cold-hardy, but also won't be collapsing in the summer heat as well.

Most chickens can handle either cold or heat as long as they have wind protection and decent ventilation in the winter and good ventilation, shade, and plenty of water in summer. The biggest risk in winter can be frostbite. That's why you want decent ventilation to let moist air escape. The risk of frostbite is much higher in moist air.

Chickens' feet are generally covered by their feathers when they are roosting so as long as the roost is not conductive (wood is good, metal or plastic is bad) feet should not be a problem, unless you get to the -20F (-29C) range. Single combs are more susceptible to frost bite than pea or rose combs. Some people raise Leghorns with their huge combs and wattles in really cold weather with few problems, but chickens with smaller combs are generally considered more cold hardy. The Chantecler was developed in Canada for that climate, the Buckeye in Ohio similarly. But any smaller-combed breed should work well. In summer most breeds can do OK if they have shade and water.

If you are in Sudbury England none of this matters. Your climate is so mild any breed can do fine. If you are in a harsher climate, then some of it might matter.

Good luck!

 

[ChickensRDinosaurs]

First off, thank you so much for your response!

I'm not sure if you are in Sudbury England or Sudbury Massachusetts.

I am in Sudbury, Ontario, Canada. While it is more rare, it isn't unheard of to have a week in the winter where it's getting close to -40C. Most of the year, it's warmer than -20C, but definitely possible to have a cold week / month. I just wanted to make sure that if I hit a cold snap, I am prepared and my chickens will be able to tough it out for a while.

Thank you again for your response!

 

[StinkyAcres]

I understand wanting a tractor that you can lift and move around, but you (and the chickens) will definitely want something much larger for 6 birds. That coop looks big enough for about three max. And there is very little space for ventilation that will not be at the level of their roost. Chickens don't love going outside in the snow and cold and the more space there is inside the coop the happier they will be in the winter. Mine hardly leave my coop in the winter. Chickens also need a dust bath (for parasite control) and there is barely any room for one in that run.

I keep water inside my coop but my coop is a larger barn with lots (12+ square feet) of 24/7/365 ventilation far away from where they sleep. However, when the temperature is so cold I need a heated waterer I keep it outside as the water evaporates quickly and creates humidity which can cause frostbite and respiratory infections in confined areas.

One problem with insulated and double-layered walls is rodents. Mice and rats will live in the walls and eat your chickens' feed.

 

[Happy hen lover]

I live in SW Nebraska we have one week of bitter cold in January.The temps dip down to -23f below and down to 50 below wind chill. , and I have learned some things since. I've had chickens since 9-20.
1. Heat is way harder on chickens than cold. They are wearing down parkas after all.
2. Humidity and condensation plus ammonia is a very bad atmosphere.
3. Big combs get frostbite when it gets that cold.
4. I stopped using heat in coop cuz fire hazard, I believe it weakens their hardiness if power goes out.
I insulated roof of coop and the little poop heads ate it ! So skip that expense . I use the deep litter method which helps keep coop warm. I use 2x4 for roosts and hens lay on their feet.
My coop is raised and have approx 52 sq feet for 10 birds. I did cover the run with a metal roof, and this year we covered the sides of run with wind barriers which really helped. I do put a stock tank heater in to trash can waterer with horizontal nipples on it to keep water from freezing. Bigger is better.