Hands on hatching and help

FWIW, I have a peachick egg that pipped externally yesterday morning while under a duck. Last night I moved it to under a hen because that hen is closer to the house and I wanted to be able to check on it. This morning it's made no progress, so now it's in the hatcher with the humidity at 75%.

-Kathy
 
That reminds me... I need to go check on my peachick egg.
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-Kathy
 
FWIW, I have a peachick egg that pipped externally yesterday morning while under a duck. Last night I moved it to under a hen because that hen is closer to the house and I wanted to be able to check on it. This morning it's made no progress, so now it's in the hatcher with the humidity at 75%.

-Kathy
Good luck

I'm finding this page so confusing
So malpositioned pippers can and usually take longer to hatch because they are skipping a step (internal pip) in hatching. Many can hatch themselves, some will need assisting. My process for helping is this:
Have: tweezers, water, q-tips or cotton balls. Also helpful is vaseline or non pain relief neosporin.

I start with chipping away some of the shell around the pip hole. Moisten the exposed membrane being careful not to get any water in the chicks nose. If there are no prominent veins in the membrane you can peel that back as well. If there is veining or blood (which is often the case, especially at the bottom of the egg) moisten the membrane, if you have the vaseline of neosporin rub a very light coat over the exposed membrane and leave the egg in the bator and give it more time. The vaseline/neosporin will help to keep the membrane from drying out. Then in an hour or two you can try again, but always stop if there is blood/veins and give it more time. If the membrane is clear of blood/veining you can proceed to remove shell and repeat the processs of moistening the membrane and pulling it back. I usually do as much as I can to remove the shell around the head so that the head is clear of the shell and then I put the egg and chick back in to rest and see if it can progress from there. Sometimes they do and sometimes I will have to do a full assist and remove the shell completely to allow the chick to come out. A lot of it depends on the positioning. The important thing is to stop when there is bleeding/blood and give it more time for that vascular system to shut down. If you get a bleeder, you can dab a little cornstartch on it to stop the bleeding before you replace it to the bator.

Make sure that the humidity is up and stays up in the bator during this process so the other pippers don't get dried out. I keep wet sponges in my bator to aid with this and rewet them as neccessary. Hope this helps some. If you have any questions or need further explaination, just let us know.
 

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