In need of some mite suggestions/help!

[chickengeorgeto]

Somewhat URGENT as the replacement flock is set to arrive this weekend!

I discovered mites as I was demolishing parts of my coop (roost area) to make improvements before the new healthy flock arrived and now I am super concerned I won't be able to treat adequately before they get here. (*side note- I had been keeping my eyes out for mites, but was clearly looking in the wrong places as once I ripped off the roost, it was clear as day....MITES! Yuck!)

My coop has raw plywood sides and ceiling (sloped), dirt floor (cleaning out about 8-12 inches of the dirt to get most if the yucky out). I am in Canada, so I am not sure how that effects meds/chemicals/treatment options available. I do have a friend who is a vet and he may be able to order me products suggested.

My questions are -

#1- Does bleach do an adequate/proper job of killing the mites and do you advise using it (will it be toxic to chickens if not enough has gassed off by the time they get here this weekend/Monday?)

#2- Is tea tree oil effective against mites by either killing or repelling them? How to apply and any advice on tea tree oil uses and chickens. (*side note - I use tea tree in our laundry and shampoo to deter/repel ticks and lice....so far it's working).

#3- We kept 3 of our flock that were healthy and young and I need any and all suggestions for how to treat them. I will keep them segregated for as long as necessary too, but if the mites are not cleared, I won't be able to house them seperatly indefinitely. I would love to keep it as safe as possible as these hens provide eggs for us as well as for sale.

#4- Does Vinegar and Peroxide (applied seperatly) kill mites or mainly bacteria and germs etc? Would you recommend it dot use on raw plywood and how about dirt floor (wonderkng it there is any real effectiveness on dirt, after all it is dirt....)

#5- Do you recommend dusting your birds as an effective method of treatment and if so, what product? How easy/difficult would it be to treat 33 birds?

#6- Is there something like a "bug bomb" that I could use to treat the coop (at the moment it is very closed/sealed up). I'm remembering back to when I was a kid and my parents "bug bombed" (for fleas...lived in S.E. Alaska....lots of fleas!) the house while we stayed away for a day. Do these things even still exist and if so are they effective against mites and other crawlers I don't want?


I appreciate any help in this matter as I am stressing out quite a bit. We were getting our new flock as a sort of fresh start after our first flock which ended up being very old birds with issues (sold to us by a local woman just off loading ner problems onto us! Errrrrr!). Hoping for a clean slate after sanitizing as best I could, but now that mites are throwing a curve ball into the mix!

Thank you, thank you!

~M~

It sounds like you have Red Mites also known as Roost Mites. These buggers don't live on the chicken but instead live and breed inside the wooden parts of the coop. They only come out to feed on your birds then run back into their strongholds to hide and multiply. It is imperative that you kill Red Mites where they live, not were you think they live. get some liquid Permethrin and mix it with some used motor oil or Diesel and use a paint brush to paint the insides of the coop paying special attention to the roost poles, nests, and any exposed areas.. Not only will the oil smother mites and their eggs but the oil acts as a carrier agent to get down into the places Red Mites Hide, it stays there, and denies these places to the next generation of Red Mites. Some liquid Permethrin and water in a hand pump garden sprayer works well to give each hen a quick spritz around the vent and between the legs, under each wing, and down the back. You can also dip your birds in Permethrin and water like the old timers did with their cattle. Remember if you're going to kill mites you got to kill um where they live. So research your mite species and act accordingly . .

 

[Donna R Raybon]

Any dewormer with 'mectin' as part of name is one family of dewormer. They were developed to deworm reindeer and people in third world countries. The principle agent works by blocking a neurotransmitter that parasite has, but mammals do not (except in spinal canal and brain.) The blood/brain barrier keeps the dewormer out of mammal's spinal canal and brain.

As a dewormer this family is one of safest, unless a breach in blood/brain barrier. Very young animals can have problems as their system has not matured. I would not use on foal, kid, lamb, calf under three months old.

Since this family of dewormer works by paralyzing parasite and they let go of gut wall and passes with feces, it won't get tapes. The tapeworm pretty much free floats and isn't affected as the blood sucking parasites are.

There are many formulations and I use plain generic which ever is cheapest. I use it to deworm chickens, goats, and heartworm the dog. On goats it is effective against deer meningeal worm if used monthly during high risk season.

Do not use in any animal with history of head trauma, seizures, brain infection. These could have comprimised blood/brain barrier. Some dogs are sensitive, too. Especially any with collie in mix. However I used it for years on Border Collies without an issue.

Using hydrated lime as white wash is one way to use it. Get a good recipe, follow directions, wear eye protection and don't get it on your skin. When working with dry lime, I would wear effective dust mask,too. That stuff is hard on lung tissue. That is reason I switched to Sweet PDZ. Chickens and goats both can stir up a heck of a dust storm.

Any place that sells horse feed should carry Sweet PDZ in fifty pound bag. The compost helper sold in small shaker can in poultry supplies I'd same stuff.

Glad to help. I started out as green as anyone and learned as i went along. Keep asking questions. I still add to my notebook of 'hacks' nearly every day. And, it is a real bunch of notebooks so I can look up stuff even if internet is down.

 

[Kmhv04]

Anyone have experiences with mites from chickens infecting their home and bodies? Found a very scary website and have now successfully freaked myself out!

Here is the site.....http://www.birdmites.org/forum.html#t24

Ugh! Just found a cheap cloth coverall outfit I am going to put on with garbage bags over my pants inside the cloth coverall outfit. Then I'm going to wear rubber boots with cooking oil painted on the lower ankle up to the high point.....

All that just in case.....now off to clean the coop, then bomb it then try the oil method....I just can't find Permethrin products yet (I'm in Canada, so maybe that is why?). I have a dust product that is like the Seven5 dust. Could that be used in the oil in replace of permethrin?

I'm loosing my mind here and it's not good. We have chickens coming soon and do not want to infect them or my family!

 

[Kmhv04]

Any dewormer with 'mectin' as part of name is one family of dewormer. They were developed to deworm reindeer and people in third world countries. The principle agent works by blocking a neurotransmitter that parasite has, but mammals do not (except in spinal canal and brain.) The blood/brain barrier keeps the dewormer out of mammal's spinal canal and brain.

As a dewormer this family is one of safest, unless a breach in blood/brain barrier. Very young animals can have problems as their system has not matured. I would not use on foal, kid, lamb, calf under three months old.

Since this family of dewormer works by paralyzing parasite and they let go of gut wall and passes with feces, it won't get tapes. The tapeworm pretty much free floats and isn't affected as the blood sucking parasites are.

There are many formulations and I use plain generic which ever is cheapest. I use it to deworm chickens, goats, and heartworm the dog. On goats it is effective against deer meningeal worm if used monthly during high risk season.

Do not use in any animal with history of head trauma, seizures, brain infection. These could have comprimised blood/brain barrier. Some dogs are sensitive, too. Especially any with collie in mix. However I used it for years on Border Collies without an issue.

Using hydrated lime as white wash is one way to use it. Get a good recipe, follow directions, wear eye protection and don't get it on your skin. When working with dry lime, I would wear effective dust mask,too. That stuff is hard on lung tissue. That is reason I switched to Sweet PDZ. Chickens and goats both can stir up a heck of a dust storm.

Any place that sells horse feed should carry Sweet PDZ in fifty pound bag. The compost helper sold in small shaker can in poultry supplies I'd same stuff.

Glad to help. I started out as green as anyone and learned as i went along. Keep asking questions. I still add to my notebook of 'hacks' nearly every day. And, it is a real bunch of notebooks so I can look up stuff even if internet is down.

Thank you Donna! I am now totally paranoid about infecting myself and family after looking online to see if the dryer will kill the mites that were on my barn clothes.....I'm terrified! Here is the site.....http://www.birdmites.org/forum.html#t24. Have you heard of anything like this from chicken mites?

Thanks again!

 

[Kmhv04]

It sounds like you have Red Mites also known as Roost Mites.  These buggers don't live on the chicken but instead live and breed inside the wooden parts of the coop.  They only come out to feed on your birds then run back into their strongholds to hide and multiply.  It is imperative that you kill Red Mites where they live, not were you think they live.  get some liquid Permethrin and mix it with some used motor oil or Diesel and use a paint brush to paint the insides of the coop paying special attention to the roost poles, nests, and any exposed areas..  Not only will the oil smother mites and their eggs but the oil acts as a carrier agent to get down into the places Red Mites Hide, it stays there, and denies these places to the next generation of Red Mites.  Some liquid Permethrin and water in a hand pump garden sprayer works well to give each hen a quick spritz around the vent and between the legs, under each wing, and down the back.  You can also dip your birds in Permethrin and water like the old timers did with their cattle.  Remember if you're going to kill mites you got to kill um where they live.  So research your mite species and act accordingly .     .  

Seeing as you know about mites specifics, have you heard of them infecting humans and dogs? Totally paranoid now! This site freaked me out in particular......http://www.birdmites.org/forum.html#t24

Thank you for your info!!

 

[chickengeorgeto]

Seeing as you know about mites specifics, have you heard of them infecting humans and dogs? Totally paranoid now! This site freaked me out in particular......http://www.birdmites.org/forum.html#t24

Thank you for your info!!

I am not an Etymologists, but I do play one on TV. So I am reasonably sure that there are not any chicken mite species that can live on, feed on, breed on, or reproduce on Humans.

That said we Humans do enjoy the company of a whole Ark full of creepy crawlies who either infest our bodies or else our bedding. Three of the most common are Dust Mites, Scabies mites, and Eyelash Mites, EEEEW!!!

As far as mans' best friend goes, mange is a dogs reaction to mites.

 

[Kmhv04]

I am not an Etymologists, but I do play one on TV.  So I am reasonably sure that there are not any chicken mite species that can live on, feed on, breed on, or reproduce on Humans.

That said we Humans do enjoy the company of a whole Ark full of creepy crawlies who either infest our bodies or else our bedding.  Three of the most common are Dust Mites, Scabies mites, and Eyelash Mites, EEEEW!!!

As far as mans' best friend goes, mange is a dogs reaction to mites. 

Thank you! I'm still looking into identifying what type of mite we have. It's a small light brown to greyish mite and was all located on and around the roosting spot. Nothing seen near the nesting boxes. The bug fogger/bomb didnt do the trick. Only thing killing them is the bleach/water mixture. We are removing the main piece of plywood where they seem to be mainly on. Then we are going to try whitewashing with hydrated lime, but have yet to find out the proper ratios and methods of use. Anyone with info id love to hear what/how you use the hydrated lime and whitewash. After we white wash we will then put up galvanized sheeting 4' up the walls, then pour concrete floor. Hoping to make it as cleanable as possible for future clean outs.

Anyone with any info on hydrated lime uses?

Any one with info on using wood ash to combat mites? Does it kill them or rather keep them at bay?

Any one with info on DE and wether it kills or just keeps them at bay?

Anyone with info on sulpher dips and if they are suggested for mites? Also if so, what are your ratios and methods?

Thank you ahead of time as I am still struggling to make a dent in this mess!

~M~

 

[Urban Flock]

Wood Ash.....I don't know if it kills them. We always have wood ash on hand and toss a bit into their dusting spots now and then. We only had a problem with mites once before we started using ash. Bought a chicken from a lady that had close to 30. It was a specific type we wanted. Didn't check it out closely before putting it in with our flock. We now know better! Anyway the whole flock ended up with mites. We picked up a poultry dust at the grange and treated all of them. It worked. Put a table out in the yard and with the help of a friend we sprinkled each bird on the table and made sure it got all over them. Caution...you can use too much and make the chicken sick or kill them. So read the label. We tried the pillowcase method. That was a good laugh. It was harder to get the chicken into the case and keep it there with only the head sticking out. Tossed the case aside and just sprinkled each one. We wore long sleeves and pants to limit the dust on us. A dust mask too. Our mites were on the chickens, tiny red little buggers.

 

[GlennLee]

Just wondering how your mite attack has progressed. Did anything work for you? Thought it might be good to post the outcome on what worked and what didn't for others to read. Hope things are under control and you're able to enjoy your chicks.

 

[Kmhv04]

Just wondering how your mite attack has progressed. Did anything work for you? Thought it might be good to post the outcome on what worked and what didn't for others to read. Hope things are under control and you're able to enjoy your chicks.

Thanks for checking back! Here is what we did to rid our coop and the outcomes thus far:

**We had NO chickens in or around this coop during this “de-miting” process**

1. Removed infested roost and nesting boxes (I saw no mites on the nesting boxes but removed them anyway).
2. Removed ALL bedding down to the dirt floor and then some of the dirt to be safe.
3. Sealed off the windows with poly plastic and set off a "bug fogger" I purchased from the local feed store (on their recommendation). I left it closed up tightly for 24 hours.---->. This did not end up working! On inspection afterwards, the mites were still visible even days later.
4. Sprayed the plywood and cracks near where the centralized infestation was with a bleach/water solution as this was the only thing I saw kill them almost instantly. I made sure to spray in the screw head indents and cracks between plywood where there was large amounts of mites/mite poop. I waited until the solution dried (about 20 minutes in the summer heat) and came back to spray it again (mainly around anywhere I saw movement and cracks/screw head indents). I repeated this process until I saw nothing moving. Be sure to do this in a highly ventilated area and do it safely (it is a chemical after all).
5. Removed the sheet of plywood where the infestation was centralize to. We weren't going to do it at first, but I really wanted to not chance things. We did not replace for 48+ hours so I could spray the plastic poly covering the insulation (that was under the plywood) with the bleach/water solution to get any rogue mites roaming around still.
6. White washed the entire coop’s inside walls, cracks and ceilings with a "hydrated lime" whitewash (50 lb bag of hydrated lime from feed store) . Did a quick search online and found the correct ratios of hydrated lime, salt and water. It wasn't precision measuring, but more of by thickness of mixture (pancake batter thickness). We painted it on with both paint brushed and paint roller, but the brush on method worked way better. The roller method was difficult and left thick chunks on walls/ceiling. I'd recommend using both a wide (4"+) brush for painting it on walls/ceiling and a thinner one (3") for cracks/screw head indents. The bigger the brush the more area you can cover quicker, but a small one is important for getting the mixture into and over cracks/screw head indents almost sealing them off. *The whitewash will dry substantially whiter, it is really quite neat.*
7. I painted whitewash on the plastic poly covering the insulation where we had removed the infested plywood to be sure anything on the plastic was covered too.
8. After 24 hours, I re-whitewashed the areas that were thinly painted (mainly in the areas we had used the paint roller to apply) and whitewashed the new piece of plywood we installed. I paid special attention to re-whitewash all the cracks and screw indent holes (where mites could hide) throughout the entire coop.
8. Waited and watched the main areas where the mites had been and didn't see anything for a few days. (So happy at this point).
9. We screwed on 4 foot high galvanized metal sheeting over the plywood walls. It went around the entire coop from the ground up to about 4 feet. Our thoughts were it will help keep the mites out and will be easier to clean/sanitize. This has yet to be proven, I will try to update later on its effectiveness.
10. Installed new nesting boxes made from a shelf unit with 10 - 12” x 12” shelves for “boxes”. We installed it sideways and flush with the wall so we can it doesn't take up space inside the coop. We also cut 4-5” circular holes in back shelf panel in each section to make accessing eggs from outside possible. We will be framing the outside of the shelf in and insulating before winter but did not finish it yet. We also did not make the access doors to the “access holes” yet, but screwed some plywood over them temporarily.
11. We brought in by wheel barrow new dirt to replace what I removed in the initial clean out. I spread and raked it out flat.
12. I researched Diatomaceous Earth (also known as DE) and was still sitting on the fence about it. I read arguments stating it's effectiveness, “natural” properties, dangers, DE killing off pollinators, problems with etc. The people at the feed store as well as the person we were buying our new hens from recommended using it. Sooooo…..I used it sparingly and in certain specific areas. I chose to sprinkle it sparingly in the dirt below the roost and around the inside perimeter of the coop.
13. I spread out straw for coop bedding. I am now regretting using the straw as I recently read more on mites and apparently straw is a really good place to harbour mites. When it comes time to clean it out, I will be replacing it with wood shavings.
14. We installed new roosts. We found a suggestion online (not sure where thought) of using joist hangers and 2x4’s on edge in the joist hangers. This way they are easily removed for cleaning/sanitizing/replacement. Awesome idea!
14. Ready for our 30 new hens!

*I will also be adding a small amount of DE, sand and clean “wood ash” (currently looking into acquiring it) to the dusting bath areas in the run as was recommended by the person we bought our hens from.*

*************

Treatment of the 3 chickens we kept (Our “Oddball Sisters” and our rooster “Buckbeak”) is not complete yet. I am currently doing more research on things and will likely be dusting them with a bird dusting powder containing something similar to seven dust (not sure it's spelling). They are quarantined away from the new hens. I will also be using DE in their dust bath areas and adding sand and clean “wood ash” (once I acquire it).

*************

I will have to see how this method works, but only time will tell. I will try remembering to update this thread when or if things change. Hope this helps.

*Also recommended by a few people was to put cooking oil on the birds legs at night to prevent and catch/suffocate any mites coming onto the bird (climbing up it’s legs) and any mites climbing off the bird (climbing down it’s legs). No experience with this yet. May try on the three birds I still need to treat. I will update if I do.

*Oh! One note, I never conclusively identified what type of mite we had/have but treatment for the two similar types was essentially the same. I believe we had the “Roost Mite”, but not 100% certain. *

Good luck!

~M~

*Will try getting some pictures up soon too!*