Incubator Humidity for French Black Copper Marans Eggs

Or is that wrong...blue laced red Wyandotte lol. So many breeds,so little time
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That is very much the truth in terms of feelings. I have Bev Davis line and breed and if you ask maran people an opinion on a bird expect a very blunt response lol.
 
Thank you! I am a firm believer in "don't ask questions you don't really want the answers too"! And I am interested in not doing something "obviously wrong" as well. Thank you for the advice!
Melissa
 
i agree and having a small hobby hatchery of rare breeds like I do means every couple years Im swapping breeds around so you have to be open to learning about new breeds and standards ect......
 
Thank you! I am a firm believer in "don't ask questions you don't really want the answers too"! And I am interested in not doing something "obviously wrong" as well. Thank you for the advice!
Melissa

Melissa, If you are fascinated with BCM now just wait...in a year from now, hopefully you'll look back, and feel glad you understand some of the important pitfalls early on. Then onto the good stuff- sweet, gorgeous birds that lay beautiful eggs!
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Just helping to hopefully, minimize some (expensive) mistakes we also made at first. Sure, some of us are enthusiastic about breeding these gorgeous birds...this is a good thing. The more serious breeders take care and respect with the breeding of them with less of the complications that set new breeders backward years in a breeding program (time wise). I am still grateful that a little over a year ago someone here alerted us to test our first cockerel for being split for Wheaten. Without test mating him, we would have lost over a year of time-- getting nowhere, having a flock of split young, then having to start over. Instead, we tested him early, educated ourselves quickly and recovered without too much time or reinvestment lost.

Unfortunately, there are those hucksters, lackadaisical breeders, and breeders unaware of issues (plus some out there who sadly care little about bettering the breed). Marans are relatively a new breed to the US, so they are very vulnerable, especially to some only making a quick buck- passing on any ole' genetics as dark egg laying Marans just as long as the $ holds out. Plus, mistakes and accidents happen as well to confuse things further.

Just my two cents...but, I would never again purchase another egg- no matter how dark or nice the eggs were... unless the breeder had some time, education and enthusiasm invested in their birds...just too much time and money wasted getting less concentrated birds to SOP, plus laying dark. Been there, done that.
 
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One Chick Two, thank you for the advice. I do believe that if I am going to do something I should do it well! (or at the very least do no harm in the attempt!)! I will test as suggested. How many eggs did you let hatch out for your first test? And if you don't buy hatching eggs where do you go for your "starter birds"?
 
Unfortunately, there are those hucksters, lackadaisical breeders, and breeders unaware of issues (plus some out there who sadly care little about bettering the breed). Marans are relatively a new breed to the US, so they are very vulnerable, especially to some only making a quick buck- passing on any ole' genetics as dark egg laying Marans just as long as the $ holds out. Plus, mistakes and accidents happen as well to confuse things further.
This is exactly what I'm trying to avoid. I'm not showing, but I don't want to be "that guy"
 
One Chick Two, thank you for the advice. I do believe that if I am going to do something I should do it well! (or at the very least do no harm in the attempt!)! I will test as suggested. How many eggs did you let hatch out for your first test? And if you don't buy hatching eggs where do you go for your "starter birds"?

You're welcome. Once you understand the most important basics, it all starts to come together.

When you are test mating for chick down color, the amount of test chicks should be 20 (this is the general concensus of the correct amount to test.).

When we tested our first male, we saw the blonde chick within the first four chicks. In a different female (from a different tested line), she had 8 that were black before throwing a sport (random chick)- then she threw 3 in a row, and one that looked pure white.

In a different line from those two, on one pullet, there was only a few mossy spots on one feather, but she had nearly all dark chicks- except for the last two chicks that showed only copper on head and on chest area- having a much lesser amount of recessives in her genetic makeup. However, these are all fails and should be avoided in a breeding program. This is why you should fully test and not give up testing after only seeing some dark chicks.

Our first birds were adult birds purchased at a chicken show. Sometimes SQ show winning birds are sold on Sunday- and this can be a more expensive option, but a fabulous way to obtain very good, refined adult stock to start from. There are also people who sell juveniles and adult birds even on this forum. However, I believe it's safer biosecurity to start off with hatching eggs or started chicks, but you have to research the best you can, ask questions, and hope for the best.

You need descent photos of the parents that can show the type/ coloring/ shanks and egg color, and ask if they've ever had a mossy chick, or, blonde chicks. Or, had a bird appear with a comb sprig, split wings or missing toes, or other genetic issues. Genetic issues can't be worked through, so things like combs have to very smooth and perfect at the side backs. Many lesser faults and some coloration issues can be worked on over time.

Go to Marans Central on FB to find very good breeders. Again, ask the hard questions or you still may find inferior stock.
 
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I struggled when I first started hatching BCM. I took the advice of many saying low humidity incubation, mid 30%, and high hatching humidity, mid 70%. Results were one poor hatch after another, most times half of the eggs would hatch, the last half never get out of the shell.
I finally ended up with excellent hatch rate by raising my incubation humidity to the upper 40% and hatching to the lower 60% at lock down. I try to never let it exceed 70% when chicks are popping out.
One thing that is important, calibrate your hygrometer. If you do not know how, instructions can be found here. https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct...0oCYBw&usg=AFQjCNEbMT7prGOvCxhYqJ1tyx7PKslLHQ
 

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