Interwar recipes for chicken feed

Perris

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Since many people are now experimenting with supplementing their chickens' diets, or even making their own feed, but often are not sure what should be in it, I thought it might be useful to transcribe some recipes from Leonard Robinson Modern Poultry Husbandry, published in 1948, and based on data and practices in the years between the two world wars, when poultry farmers made their own rations. All measures are British Imperial. Google convert will turn them into whatever measures you like.

Layers' mash 1, for stock on grass range:
20 lb bran
40 lb wheat middlings [a by-product of wheat milling, like bran; this is the 2nd layer of the grain; it should contain much of the wheat germ]
20 lb yellow maize (corn) meal
10 lb ground oats
10 lb meat-and-bone meal or fish meal
1/2 lb common salt

Layers' mash 2, for stock on grass range:
25 lb bran
40 lb fine middlings
25 lb yellow maize (corn)
5 lb extracted soya-bean meal or earth-nut (peanut) meal
5 lb meat-and-bone meal or fish meal
1/2 lb common salt

Battery-layers' mash, for birds reared in total confinement (all mash ration):
6 lb alfalfa meal or dried grass meal
20 lb bran
32 lb yellow maize (corn) meal
25 lb fine middlings
10 lb ground oats
6 lb meat-and-bone meal
1/2 lb common salt
1 pint cod-liver oil
with oyster shell or limestone grit sprinkled over the mash or 5% limestone flour added to it.

These recipes are preceded by the following remarks:
A ration that may give an entirely satisfactory result when fed to birds on free range may be, and very probably would be, inadequate for birds kept in total confinement... Balancing the ration does not imply simply the provision of a given proportion of proteins, carbohydrates, minerals and vitamins. It is possible to construct a ration in which all the essential food constituents are present in the proper proportion, and yet it would fail on account of unpalatability, low digestibility or unsuitable physical condition...birds do not relish finely ground meals, particularly when they are fed in a dry state. Very fine meals may clog the beak, causing necrosis. They also tend to form a solid mass in the digestive tract...such meals should be mixed with bran, dried grass or other bulky foodstuffs... When compounding mashes the quality of the several constituents is a matter of great importance. The formula is not the only matter to consider. By using inferior ingredients a mash may be made totally unsuitable...the value of a formula may be completely destroyed by the inclusion of poor-quality foods. Every poultry-keeper should learn to judge foodstuffs. They should be able to distinguish between the good, the bad and the indifferent.

There are further recipes for chick mashes, growers' mashes, a breeders' mash, and fattening mashes, plus some further ones where home-grown feeding stuffs are available, and a couple based on potatoes that were developed during war time, when grains were in short supply. I may add these in due course if there is interest.
 
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Well, that is really interesting.I would like to know if the farmer does the grinding, or if it would be bought that way. When you buy broken up corn, the germ (with the protein) has been removed. If you grind it yourself, of course it would include the protein.

His caveats show an understanding of the recipes and how well a chicken would digest them.

My concern is the nutritional value of the ingredients in 1940 versus today. Higher nutrition in 1940 than today.
 
I found the comments about food texture interesting. When I first got chickens, my chicken yard was nothing but dirt (the land had been bulldozed) and I was feeding them nothing but commercial feed. The only other thing they had besides dirt and rocks, was the straw in their coop. I lost two chickens almost immediately from impacted crops from eating straw. All the chickens were interested in it to some extent, but two would not stop eating it.

Since then, I've got plants established in the yard. Along with their commercial feed, I give sprouted grains and fodder, along with weeds, table scraps and old produce. They area always keen on the clumps of weed grasses I throw in. It's been years now, and I've not had a single hen whose been a straw eater (aside form the normal pecking of seed heads).

In retrospect, I suspect that the straw eating had something to do with the lack of variety, including texture, in their diet.
 
I would like to know if the farmer does the grinding, or if it would be bought that way.
He assumes the feed is being purchased in most cases. He gives advice on how to assess the quality, e.g. "oat samples vary enormously in quality, and many of the inferior samples are almost valueless, consisting principally of husk. Only plump white oats should be purchased. They should be clipped to remove the awns and fibrous tip of the grain. A good sample will weigh not less that 40lb per bushel... some samples [of dari, aka milo, aka sorghum] are extremely dusty and dirty... samples [of wheat bran] that feel hard and woody should not be purchased."

My concern is the nutritional value of the ingredients in 1940 versus today. Higher nutrition in 1940 than today.
I'm sure you're right. The decisions that have led to our modern varieties have focused on lots of things, such as speed of growth, appearance, sweetness, tolerance of weed-killers and so on, and have notoriously ignored the nutritional values. Dan Saladino wrote a book on the importance of rescuing some of those old varieties, which you might find interesting
https://www.penguin.co.uk/books/438833/eating-to-extinction-by-saladino-dan/9781784709686
 
In retrospect, I suspect that the straw eating had something to do with the lack of variety, including texture, in their diet.
I'm sure you're right. Do the plants you've established in their yard also provide them with some food? For example, some cornus produce edible fruit, and those that attract insects will bring in protein on the wing or foot.
 
He's right about checking the quality of what you are buying. I currently have a bag of oats that is kinda dirty. A lot of empty husks. I won't buy from them again. The chickens are doing all right on it, but they are also getting whole wheat (which is lovely), corn, and sunflower seeds, as well as foraging.
 
There were also some studies done in the 40's and 50's that showed that given all the ingredients of a balanced food chicks will eat what they need. A while ago I put out all the separate ingredients of a balanced food to test the hypothesis, and once they stopped thinking of these things as "treats" they ate what they needed.

Some day I'll isolate a group of chicks and do a real test. As I remember, the chicks that were allowed to select their own food grew faster and better than those on a mixed food with the same ingredients.
 
Since many people are now experimenting with supplementing their chickens' diets, or even making their own feed, but often are not sure what should be in it, I thought it might be useful to transcribe some recipes from Leonard Robinson Modern Poultry Husbandry, published in 1948, and based on data and practices in the years between the two world wars, when poultry farmers made their own rations. All measures are British Imperial. Google convert will turn them into whatever measures you like.

Layers' mash 1, for stock on grass range:
20 lb bran
40 lb wheat middlings [a by-product of wheat milling, like bran; this is the 2nd layer of the grain; it should contain much of the wheat germ]
20 lb yellow maize (corn) meal
10 lb ground oats
10 lb meat-and-bone meal or fish meal
1/2 lb common salt

Layers' mash 2, for stock on grass range:
25 lb bran
40 lb fine middlings
25 lb yellow maize (corn)
5 lb extracted soya-bean meal or earth-nut (peanut) meal
5 lb meat-and-bone meal or fish meal
1/2 lb common salt

Battery-layers' mash, for birds reared in total confinement (all mash ration):
6 lb alfalfa meal or dried grass meal
20 lb bran
32 lb yellow maize (corn) meal
25 lb fine middlings
10 lb ground oats
6 lb meat-and-bone meal
1/2 lb common salt
1 pint cod-liver oil
with oyster shell or limestone grit sprinkled over the mash or 5% limestone flour added to it.

These recipes are preceded by the following remarks:
A ration that may give an entirely satisfactory result when fed to birds on free range may be, and very probably would be, inadequate for birds kept in total confinement... Balancing the ration does not imply simply the provision of a given proportion of proteins, carbohydrates, minerals and vitamins. It is possible to construct a ration in which all the essential food constituents are present in the proper proportion, and yet it would fail on account of unpalatability, low digestibility or unsuitable physical condition...birds do not relish finely ground meals, particularly when they are fed in a dry state. Very fine meals may clog the beak, causing necrosis. They also tend to form a solid mass in the digestive tract...such meals should be mixed with bran, dried grass or other bulky foodstuffs... When compounding mashes the quality of the several constituents is a matter of great importance. The formula is not the only matter to consider. By using inferior ingredients a mash may be made totally unsuitable...the value of a formula may be completely destroyed by the inclusion of poor-quality foods. Every poultry-keeper should learn to judge foodstuffs. They should be able to distinguish between the good, the bad and the indifferent.

There are further recipes for chick mashes, growers' mashes, a breeders' mash, and fattening mashes, plus some further ones where home-grown feeding stuffs are available, and a couple based on potatoes that were developed during war time, when grains were in short supply. I may add these in due course if there is interest.
Commenting that I have run a number of those recipes through a modern feed calculator, with modern nutritional values, and they generally outperform other "make at home" internet feed recipes.

The grains have generally decreased in total protein, but whether your corn is 9% protein or 8% protein isn't a deal breaker, its not your primary protein source. "Soft" wheat (low protein) dominates modern shelves, and has about 80% the average protein of a historic hard wheat. That's a bigger deal - 12.5% vs almost 16%. Not a math person? Take your favorite scratch-made cake recipe. Where it says cake flour or all purpose flour, use bread flour instead. Make no other substitutions. Prepare the recipe as normal.

Quite a difference, isn't it???

Now, having said that, "meat and bone meal" is an ancient term of art, with specific meaning. Its also not allowed by the FDA anymore (they require that animal products used in animal feed be identified with greater specificity). Based on a few published sourses of similar age, "meat and bone meal" was around 55% protein, about 10% fat, about 10% calcium, and had an amino acid profile typical of animal proteins (quite balanced). Without an equivalent ingredient, all those recipes "fall apart" nutritionally - itsa major boost to the total protein, and the best source of certain amino acids not well represented in the plant world.

and lest you think "i'll just throw in 5# of ground beef from the grocery store" as meat and bone meal, plus free choice oyser shell, uhhhh, NO. The ground beef at the grocery store is likely 70/30 or 73/27. You are putting in FAR more fat than was present in meat and bone meal. ALSO, the ground meat at the grocery store is likely 75% (or more) water. Meaning its only about 70 * .25 = 17.5% protein (and 7,5% fat). You need about 3x as much raw ground meat as "meat and bone meal" to result in roughly equivalnt protein levels. Because meat and bone meal was ground scraps, closely trimmed (fat had LOTS of uses, once upon a time), then dried for long term storage. Alternatively, it was rendered in a large bot till all the fats had separated and could be poured off (for practical use - soap, schmaltz, candles, etc) then pressed to remove remaining moisture, ground, and dried further.
 
We use a premix from ABC biz (VTM) and the recipe provided on their website, with the exception of substituting wheat middlings. The main ingredients come from local farms - toasted soy, corn, and wheat middlings. We adjust the protein content for the time of year by adding more/less toasted soy. We use a hammer mill (600-1000 lbs at a time) to grind the feed and soak it in 5 gallon buckets. Sometimes we ferment and sometimes just serve it wet. The brooder house birds get a mix of commercial starter feed and this (dry) once they're about 3 weeks old. We've been doing it for a year and have solid egg production, fertility, and general health. I should mention that the flock is on 1/2 an acre of rotating pasture so they also get natural goodness. I've also used it for meat birds. It took a week longer to reach full size but the flavor was better than using crumble. I wish we could get the premix closer as shipping adds 30% to the cost. Still, last year it worked out to $22 for 100 lbs for a 18% protein feed that's good for everyone. With an average of 150+ birds on hand, batches of meat birds, and a few turkeys we go through 5-6 tons feed/year.
 
There were also some studies done in the 40's and 50's that showed that given all the ingredients of a balanced food chicks will eat what they need. ...

Some day I'll isolate a group of chicks and do a real test. As I remember, the chicks that were allowed to select their own food grew faster and better than those on a mixed food with the same ingredients.
The similar studies I've seen showed nearly the same growth for the chicks fed a mixed ration as for the chicks fed the ingredients separately. An example: one study had mean chick weights at 8 weeks of 418 g (mixed) vs 380 g (separate) for pullet chicks and 464 g vs 461 for cockerel chicks.

What I'm finding most interesting this time I looked at it, is how uneven the consumption of several of the ingredients was:
The group eating the separated ingredients ate 35 grams of salt the first two weeks, 5 g the third week, 0 in the fourth and fifth weeks, 100 g the sixth week, 110 g the seventh week, 40 in the 8th week.

I'm thinking the variations may effect things besides weight gain - maybe having effects on specific organs or the immune system.

It seemed to be so in the experiment done with human children that is described in the book "ultra-processed people."
 

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