Show us your nest boxes! Ingenous design post it here!

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Hi Glenda,

I have fence on 2 sides and netting on one so they can be watched from the patio. Then I have netting across the top with a trap over the netting to protect from the hot Arizona sun and to provide shade. I also have 2 box fans that are always on and a 6' long mister.


Cute set up but serious need for predator proofing with hardware cloth. Dogs, coyotes, etc will go through in a breeze. Sorry.
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Here is our external roll-out nest box.
The design concept is based on Opa's "New Rollout Nest Design", with modifications to fit our needs and our coop.


This oversize insulated nest box is 30" wide x 24" long; with 18" high at the coop end and 13" high at the door end. It consists of two nesting boxes with an internal dimensions of 13" wide x 12" deep x 13" high for each box.


Since there is a tree nearby, collecting eggs will have to be done from one edge of the door. Therefore, a deceleration and egg collection net is designed on the insulated door panel for easy egg collection without going under the tree.


The door opening is controlled by two chains and a lock mounted on the side. The net is made with a 1/2" plastic wire mesh and zip ties, shaped to size and fit in place via many trial and error and egg rolling. When the door is closed, the lower edge of the net will overlap the top of the turf by 4" so the eggs can roll right into the net, which also acts as a cushion.


The chains can be unhooked to swing the door 180 degree for removing the ramps for cleaning. There is a strip of rubber inner tubes mounted along the center baffle to shield the 4" vertical clearance above the ramps so the chickens can't see behind them.


A top view of the internal setup of the nest box. 12" in front (to the left of the center baffle) for the chickens, and 11" behind (to the right of the center baffle) for egg rolling and egg catchment. This is to prevent the chickens from reaching under the baffle to eat the eggs. There is an 1" insulation in all walls.


The removable ramps are 3.2" high in the front x 13" wide x 19" long to provide a 16% slope for egg rolling. The ramps are top with a 12" wide removable synthetic golf turf. If more or less slope is needed, the adjustment can be made to the ramps without heavy modification to the coop. The top surface of the ramp is hard plastic for easy cleaning.


A view of the nest box entrance from inside the coop. A piece of 2x4 set the entry way to 9" high x 13" wide. Pluggable vent holes are provided for each stall even though the walls are insulated.


The inside of the nest box is painted a darker "privacy" color, when the nest box door is closed, the box is darken. Here the chickens are first introduced to the nest box at 14 weeks old.
 
Wondering if I can use the copier paper boxes from work as nesting boxes. Take the lid and place as the bottom, then stand the box itself up in the lid. I am thinking cleaning up would be easy and just replace with another one. Would that work?? Not sure how long they would last, a week?

I think I'd put the lid on it, cut a flap to lift up in the back for easy egg removal, and cut an entry hole in the front for the girls. Unless it's in the rain, I think it'd last more than a week.
 
On the first page it did say to post "goofy but works" designs... :)

We used the drawers from an old cabinet we took out of the house. I think they're real cute, and they're working!



Mine are made from old filing cabinet drawers ... wood, not metal. Cut a scoop for an entrance in front, then put a slanted lid on a piano hinge over it for privacy and easy access to the eggs. The girls seem very happy with them.
 
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Still need to put the slanted roof over the top and figure out some sort of a walkway in front of the boxes. Hopefully the older hens have no problem transitioning to the new house and boxes :/:)
 

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