Squishy sour crop....ACV...yes or no?

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Michael Apple said:
I missed this post. Preach? Just recommending what has worked for me in the past. The Spartrix tabs I mentioned are 10 mg Carnidazole not Metronidazole.
Click to expand...

Sorry, maybe I misunderstood you... I thought you were saying that I should post dosing info in a previous post. Please accept my apologies and let's just get this bird healthy.
 
When emptying the crop be careful that your girl does not aspirate. I had sour crop with one of my hens and emptying the crop, with treatment got rid of it very quickly.
 
Let me start all over...

This is a cut and paste from another post of mine

When mine get sick, this is what I do:

  • Thorough exam which includes inserting a gloved, lubed finger into the cloaca to check for an egg, check for cuts, bruising lumps etc.
  • Dust for mites/lice with poultry dust even if I cannot see any. DE does not work.
  • Weigh on digital kitchen scale (see avatar), record weight and weigh daily. any weight loss is bad.
  • Place bird in a warm, quiet place on towel with food and water that it can't drown in.
  • De-worm with Safeguard or Panacur, liquid or paste 50mg/kg by mouth and repeat in 10 days. Warning - Safeguard/Panacur (fenbendazle should not be used during a molt)
  • Once warm, if not drinking, and crop is empty, hydrate with warmed Pedialyte or lactated ringers with a feeding tube - 30ml/kg every 6-8 hours.
  • If not eating after 24 hours and crop is empty, tube feed baby bird food mixed with Pedialyte
  • Inspect poop.
  • If I suspect a stuck egg, treat for egg binding.
  • If I suspect a bacterial infection, treat with antibiotics.

From: http://www.harrisonsbirdfoods.com/avmed/cam/07_emergency_and_critical_care.pdf
Supportive Care
SICK-BIRD ENCLOSURES
Sick birds are often hypothermic and should be placed
in heated (brooder-type) enclosures


b (Fig 7.7) in a quiet
environment (see Chapter 1, Clinical Practice). A temperature
of 85° F (29° C) with 70% humidity is desirable
for most sick birds. If brooders are not equipped with a
humidity source, placing a small dish of water in the
enclosure will often supply adequate humidity. A moist
towel that is heated and placed on the bottom of a cage
or incubator rapidly humidifies the environment, as indicated​
by the fogging of the acrylic cage front.

FLUID THERAPY
Oral Administration
Oral administration is the ideal method of giving fluids.
This method is more commonly used in mildly dehydrated
birds or in conjunction with subcutaneous (SC)
or intravenous (IV) therapy. Oral rehydration (30 ml/kg
PO q 6-8 h) also may be used in larger birds (eg, waterfowl)
that are difficult to restrain for parenteral fluid​
therapy.



 
Thanks for all the help and input! Here are my latest updates:

* Yesterday I got Dottie (the araucana) to expel some of the nasty sour fluids by holding her tightly like a football, and bending myself over so she was turned upside down. I gently massaged and squeezed her crop and soon after, a good stream of sour fluids came out. There were small flecks of food in it as well. I repeated this procedure on four separate occasions, giving her time to rest in between, and drink some of the ACV water.

* I also created a larger pen for her in our garage, instead of the dog crate she was in. I also brought up her sister Ari, the only other araucana, who also appears to have a crop issue, but hers was slightly smaller than when Dottie's was at her worst the other day. This way she has a friend as well.

* This morning I "puked" both birds for about 10 seconds each. Both crops are reduced in size, but are still larger than I believe they should be, especially compared to the other birds in our flock (3 barred rocks and 3 buff orpingtons).


Today I have both acidified copper sulfate and Medistatin at my disposal, finally. Which would be preferable to use at this point? I'm thinking maybe the copper sulfate, as it seems like I'm reading that Medistatin is for mixing in feed, and they are both on liquid-only until...tomorrow maybe? Thinking of following this: "Use 1 gm (0.035 oz) of Copper Sulfate (bluestone) to 2 litres (3.52 pints) of water – be very careful about the measurements of the Copper Sulfate too much will kill your bird
Add 2 teaspoons of Apple Cider Vinegar
Mix in some Cranberry Juice"
 
In terms of eggs. We've never checked for a stuck egg before. I am *fairly* sure it's not a stuck egg, as we had araucana eggs up until the day I moved Dottie in, and had one yesterday as well. So I know Ari must be laying just fine, as she laid one yesterday before I moved her inside, but Dottie would be the only one in suspect. Would they lay even if they don't have their box or a soft spot...they are on a garage floor with newspaper right now.
 
brennamae said:
In terms of eggs. We've never checked for a stuck egg before. I am *fairly* sure it's not a stuck egg, as we had araucana eggs up until the day I moved Dottie in, and had one yesterday as well. So I know Ari must be laying just fine, as she laid one yesterday before I moved her inside, but Dottie would be the only one in suspect. Would they lay even if they don't have their box or a soft spot...they are on a garage floor with newspaper right now.
Click to expand...
Checking for an egg/obstruction is just part of my exam, just like the dusting, worming and weighing. I've only had to deal with one hen who's crop wouldn't empty, it was a lot of work and I did get it to empty, but she had an obstruction and Marek's so she died.

This is a copy and paste from avian web, you might find some useful info in it:



Crop Emptying Problems - Slow Crop / Sour Crop​


A chick's crop must empty completely once every twenty-four hours. If it doesn't, there is a good chance that a sour crop could be developing in the chick. If the chick is suffering from a gas-filled crop (Candida) - please go to this website.


Common Causes & Resolutions:
  • Until the slow crop is resolved, provide supportive care as outlined on this page.
  • Baby food is fed either too cold or too hot: The temperature of the formula should be at least 105 degrees Fahrenheit. Closely monitor the temperature with a digital thermometer.
  • Baby formula is too thick: Feeding a formula that is too thick will result in dehydration and crop stasis. On the other hand, feeding the formula to thin will prevent your chick from getting proper nutrition, potentially leading to starvation and death. The consistency of the formula fed must be appropriate for the age of the chick.
  • Dehydration of the chick - fluid replacement is a necessity to safe the life of the chick.
  • Chick is chilled: The environmental temperature for chicks ten days or older are 88-92 degrees Fahrenheit; younger chicks: 96-98 degrees F.
  • Overfeeding the chick will result in overstretching the crop. Inexperienced breeder very easily overfeed the chicks. It is important for the breeder to know when to stop feeding. In an overfed chick, the crop loses its ability to push the food from the crop into the digestive track, causing the food to remain in the crop and turning sour (bad). Breeders and vets have successfully used a crop bra to support the crop. I made crop bras out of an elastic bandage - please refer to below illustration.
cropbra.gif


  • Bacterial, viral or yeast infections are another source of crop stasis. Vinegar: A Natural Approach to Avian Management
  • Crop impaction by foreign body / material in the crop: chicks may be eating nesting substrate causing their crops to impact.
  • Sour food in the crop caused by food remaining in the crop and fresh food being fed on top of spoiling food. To prevent this, it is necessary to make sure that the crop empties once a day. If it doesn't, add a little Applesauce or Papaya concentrate to the formula. Oftentimes this will result in the crop emptying normally. Alternatively, unflavored Pedialyte fed every two hours for the next twelve hours might help.
  • Slow crop in babies is often caused by dehydration. Offering electrolyte solutions orally (primary choice) or warmed lactated ringers solution subcutaneously (secondary solution) may help resolve that. A veterinarian or someone experienced in this procedure should demonstrate or perform. The usual procedure for oral administration is to warm the solution to 100 degrees F. and for subcutaneous administration, to hold the syringe under hot running water for a moment. Test the temperature of the solution to make sure that it is not too hot / warm before administering. Do not heat in microwave.
    • Administer: a small amount of warm water, saline solution or Maalox / Digel or Mineral Oil (vet recommended). If the crop does not empty within a few hours, add lactobacillus and/or digestive enzyme.
    • Some are offering a more diluted formula to speed digestion, but babies need concentrated nutrition; the more watery the solution is, the less calories and nutrition they will get; thus causing weakness in the chick and further lowering its natural defense system.
    • Gently massaging the crop - Crop massage is tricky and needs to be done very carefully. It is very easy to aspirate the baby in the process. Care needs to be taken NOT to push the crop UP while massaging, as this would cause the chick to aspirate the food, resulting in aspiration pneumonia or immediate death. You may want to have a vet instruct you in how to do it correctly. Many avian vets are very willing to instruct breeders in such matters.
    • Emptying / flushing the crop with gavage -- this should only be the last resort as this is risky unless done by someone who is experienced and skilled in this procedure.
    • Once the crop is empty, vets and breeders may administer Pepto-Bismol, Nystatin, or Raglan syrup to help stimulate motility. Half an hour later feed some lactated ringers solution or Pedialyte mixed with some Bird Bene Bac, or other bird-specific probiotic. Another 20 to 30 minutes later, they may offer a small amount of Gerber oatmeal mixed with applesauce and bananas, baby cereal, and water - feeding less volume, but more frequently. Some breeders swear by feeding papaya to any bird with digestive problems (such as slow crop). Once motility is restored, gradually offer regular hand feeding formula.
Important Considerations:
  • Any fluids / foods to be provided should be at least 105 degrees Fahrenheit.
  • Environmental temperatures: Chicks ten days or older: 88-92 degrees Fahrenheit; younger chicks: 96-98 degrees Fahrenheit.
  • The thickness / consistency of the formula fed must be appropriate for the age of the chick. Too thick a formula will prevent food from moving down the digestive system (crop stasis); too thin will not provide enough nutrition.
  • It may be necessary for you to consult with your avian vet to assess the problem and institute life-saving measures.

Gas-filled Crop / Candida:

​


Summary: In unfeathered babies, a Candida-infected crop will show signs of cheese-like lesions, and a grayish-white layer covers the crop lining. The often ulcerated and inflamed wall will be thickened and opaque, making the crop puffy and abnormal looking. If you suspect your baby to suffer from this, please go to this website.
 
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There are drug dosing amounts and info listed further down.



Candida / Candidiasis​






Candidiasis is a disease caused by a yeast that is common in hand-fed chicks. Candida can proliferate in the digestive tract and other organs, including the beak and respiratory system. Candida can also infect the skin, feathers, eyes, and reproductive tract - but this is more common in nonpsittacine birds (birds not in the parrot family). The severity of the infection depends on the age of the bird and the state of its immune system. Candida albicans most often affects the crop, as well as the upper digestive tract; but also affects the skin, respiratory tract, central nervous system and all other organs.


Cause:

Candidiasis is most common in young birds, especially those on antibiotics, due to their immature / suppressed-immune systems. Adult birds with impaired immune systems are equally at risk - especially those on long-term antibiotics or suffering from malnutrition (seed-only diets, Vitamin A deficiency). Antibiotics change the normal digestive tract flora and allow the organism to overgrow. Other factors placing a bird at risk are the presence of other infections, including poxvirus or Trichomonas; other health problems, such as trauma or smoke inhalation, and stress.
  • Vitamin A promotes appetite, digestion, and also increases resistance to infection and to some parasites.
The most obvious sign of a vitamin A deficiency is a feather stain above the cere. The staining of the feathers above the nostrils reflects a discharge from the nostrils. Subtle differences may be seen as far as the color intensity of the cere and feathers is concerned - and the overall condition of the plumage. A bird deficient in this vitamin may have pale, rough-looking feathers that lack luster. The cere may look rough instead of smooth, and you may see an accumulation of a yellow dry scale on the sides of the beak.
Vitamin A occurs naturally in dark leafy greens and orange-colored produce, such as apricots, cantaloupes, carrots, red peppers, pumpkins and sweet potatoes. To resolve Vitamin A deficiency, try adding foods like sweet potatoes (either cooked or steamed until soft), mashed up with other fruits will be both loved by your pet bird, as much as it is good for her or him. Many birds also enjoy fresh carrot juice - or try offering shredded carrots. Natural sources are preferable over synthetically produced nutrients, which may not be absorbable and could easily be overdosed).​


Symptoms:

In unfeathered babies, a Candida-infected crop will show signs of cheese-like lesions. When Candida invades the crop, a grayish-white layer of pseudo membrane covers the crop lining. The often ulcerated and inflamed wall will be thickened and opaque, making the crop puffy and abnormal looking.
If the mouth and beak are infected, you may notice bad breath and raised areas with thick clear or white material in the mouth.
Infections of the beak often occur where the upper and lower beaks meet. Infections of the crop may cause regurgitation, anorexia; delayed crop emptying; swollen or bloated, mucus-filled crop, and possible crop impaction. Another symptom may be clear slimy liquid coming out of mouth.
If the digestive tract is impacted, the symptoms range from depression, loss of appetite, weight loss, vomiting, and diarrhea. In the respiratory tract, Candida may cause nasal discharge, a change in the voice, difficulty breathing, rapid breathing and inability to exercise.


Transmission:

Yeast are found everywhere in the environment, including spoiled food. For this reason, fresh foods (fruits and vegetables) should not be left in the bird's cage for long periods of time. Food can spoil in as little as a few hours during the hot and humid summer season.
Poor hygiene can also spread yeast infections. Not sterilizing hand feeding equipment, improper cage cleaning and not washing our hands can spread the yeast.
Most healthy birds will not be affected. Older birds, neonates, sick birds and stressed birds generally develop yeast infections as secondary infections. These secondary infections put increased stress on their already overtaxed immune system and interfere with the healing process. For at-risk birds, your veterinarian may advise mixing chlorhexidine into the drinking water.


Diagnosis:

Tentative diagnosis can be made with clinical signs along with the absence of bacterial infection. Samples can also be taken, and cultured in specially prepared culture media. Caution: Candida is a common environmental contaminant. PCR and sequence assays are essential tool to identify the presence of Candida and identify specific strains.


Treatment: (scroll down to find out how breeders address this problem)

If candida is suspected, the vet typically takes a sample of the crop contents and sends it to a lab for testing. The culture report will tell what is going on and suggests effective treatments. The vet may also be able to do a gram stain while you are there to identify the bacteria / yeast.
Treatment requires the elimination of any risk factors, such as stress, poor diet, poor sanitation, or the presence of other diseases. Focus should be on quality nutrition and immune function support. The diet should be devoid any sugar and little to no fruit until the yeast is cleared up. A clean environment will help in the resolution of this disease - the quality of the air and the water (steam-distilled).
Antifungal medications commonly prescribed include nystatin, flucytosine, ketoconazole (Nizoral), fluconazole, diflucan, and itraconazole. For treatment of oral or skin infections, ointment containing amphotericin B are usually applied.
Please note that candida may become resistant to Nystatin, especially if administered incorrectly, and/or over a prolonged time.
Nystati is administered by mouth for 5 days or longer. Nystatin could be mixed into the handfeeding formula; however, is more effective if given full strength about half an hour before feeding. Nursery items need to be cleaned and disinfected after use on each bird. To prevent cross-contamination, it is strongly recommended to not use any utensil on two birds without disinfecting in-between. Any left-over formula should be discarded.
Avianbiotech recommends the following:
Nystatin, the most commonly prescribed anti-fungal agent. This yellowish liquid suspension is usually administered by mouth for several 5 days or longer. Nystatin can be mixed directly into the hand-feeding formula but is more effective if given full strength about 1/2 hour before feeding. This will give it time to coat the crop lining and attack the unhealthy Candida organism. Nystatin works by disrupting fungal cell walls. Nystatin is not well absorbed in the gastrointestinal tract. This anti-fungal agent should not be used indiscriminately or as a preventative. Candida may become resistant to Nystatin from continued use, from inadequate or improper dosing regimens. Do not assume that a bird treated with nystatin will be free of Candida. Some resistant yeasts require antifungals other than Nystatin.
Diflucan, one of the newer drugs, has proved to be effective in treating fungal infections. A suspension combining Nystatin and Diflucan has been found to be a safe and effective treatment for Candida. Candida in cockatiels can prove to be extremely difficult to treat. When administered properly Diflucan can clear up Candidiasis within five days.
Ketoconazole (trade name Nizoral) which is dosed orally is sometimes prescribed when Nystatin resistant strains of Candida develop. It is almost insoluble in water, expensive and can be toxic if used improperly. Using Nizoral on a severely ill and physically stressed bird can prove fatal. Nizoral should be used under veterinary supervision, only in physically "healthy" birds, to treat yeast infection, or as a preventative when using antibiotic therapy.
Flucytosine - 250mg/kg PO BID x 21 days
Ketoconazole - 10-30 mg/kg BID x 21 days
Fluconazole - 5mg/kg SID for 7 days
Nystatin - 100,000 units 1ml per 400 gram bird PO BID x 7 days




Natural Treatment / Treating Chicks with Yeast
(Consult with your vet)​

Raw Apple Cider Vinegar:
  • Some breeders swear by raw apple cider vinegar and their recommendations are to add a drop or two of raw apple cider vinegar to the handfeeding formula to establish a normal pH balance in the gut. Apple cider vinegar naturally promotes acidity in the digestive system thus encouraging the growth of healthy bacterial flora ... Vinegar: A Natural Approach to Avian Management
  • Organic apple cider has natural enzymes, minerals vitamins and essential acids that help keep yeast under control. It is frequently referred to as natures 'antibiotics' that is more of a probiotic (because its an antiseptic). The dilution that a breeder recommended was approximately 1/4 cup of vinegar to one gallon of distilled or filtered water. (Do not use spring water as it may counteract with some of the enzymes). NOTE: Some birds can be sensitive to vinegar, so make sure you talk to your holistic vet before you start this or any other regimen of natural origin.
  • One vet recommended the following dosage for early treatment or preventative for candida: 1 tsp of Apple Cider Vinegar per 16 oz water
Grapefruit Seed Extract (GSE)
  • Others (including myself) have been happy with the results gained by adding Grapefruit Seed Extract (GSE) added to hand feeding formula. I am using it as a preventative measure and it literally eliminated this problem. As an additional benefit, GSE also has good anti-parasitic properties.
Probiotics:
Gentian Violet Treatment:
  • Gentian Violet is considered a safe and efficient remedy for treating Candida, and was successful when conventional treatment failed. It is available from some drug stores and hand-feeding equipment suppliers. A solution of 1% Gentian Violet is used to swap the mouth, esophagus and crop of bird suffering from the crop disorder. The saturated swab is slowly rotated around the mouth, down the esophagus and into the crop. Make sure to completely wipe the crop interior with the purple Gentian Violet. It helps to place your thumb against the crop and run the swab in circular motions with in the crop while slightly pressing against the thumb. Healthy tissue within the crop will stain purple when swabbed with the Gentian Violet. The unhealthy tissue will show up whitish and mottled. Best results are realized when administered to an empty crop but an empty crop or evacuation of the crop is not absolutely necessary unless crop is more then ½ full. Treatment should be administered every morning or every other morning, depending on severity of infection, over a three-day period. Very rarely is treatment continued for more than three days, except in severe cases. Improvement should be evident by the second treatment. The whitish lesions on the crop wall will begin to disappear. When all lesions are gone, treatment can be discontinued. In cases of crop bloat the crop will deflate noticeably. This proven treatment is very safe, and satisfactory results are often realized almost immediately. If this three-day treatment fails to show improvement a veterinarian visit is highly recommended.




Thrush (Candida) Infections by Dr. Rob Marshall​

Thrush (candida) infections are diagnosed by the microscopic examination of a stained (gram stain) dropping or mouth swab. A culture test will confirm the severity of the infection and help to identify an underlying cause.
What is thrush?
Thrush is a common disease of pet and other birds. It is a condition that distresses the bird, causing it to become depressed and lifeless. A bird with thrush often shows dropping changes because the infection irritates the bowel lining. The dropping of thrush commonly infects the mouth, causing birds to swallow excessively. It may even infect the sinus and cause sneezing. Thrush infections are potentially life threatening when left unattended.
Thrush is always caused by an underlying stress factor. Stress factors include, vitamin and mineral deficiencies, fluctuating temperatures, environmental change, psychological stress and underlying illness.
How is thrush treated?
Thrush infections require a 5-7 day course of Mycostatin treatment. The Mycostatin is best administered directly by mouth. If this is not possible, a drinking water treatment may be effective. Remove all seed, grit, seed bells and fruit, from the cage. Disinfect the cage with a Water Cleanser and start your bird on sterile seed.
Are there any other special instructions?
To accelerate the healing process I recommend that all birds with thrush infections be given Turbobooster, Energy supplement and Fvite on the sterile seed daily for three weeks and then three times a week after this time. Following the antibiotic treatment, Dufoplus and Ioford are given twice weekly in the drinking water. Ensure your bird is actually eating and drinking. If not, it will need special force feeding in hospital (Avianweb Note: or by someone experienced / trained in proper force feeding procedures).
Are there any long term problems?
Thrush infections may leave your bird susceptible to illness in the future. A Water Cleanser is added to the drinking water for two consecutive days. It is then given two days each week, followed by Dufoplus and Ioford to help control recurrence. To further protect your bird from repeat infections follow the health programme in the accompanying brochure.
Is this disease contagious to humans or other birds?
Although thrush infections are not highly contagious, they may be transmitted from bird to human by close contact, especially kissing. It may also be transmitted from bird to bird via the dropping.
Can thrush infections be prevented from recurring?
Thrush infections are always related to stress factors. Special care must be taken to minimise potential stress on the bird. This may be in the form of environmental changes or nutritional adjustments. By following the ongoing health programme your bird is provided with all minerals and nutrients it needs for ongoing health and vitality.




Breeders' Recommendations:


Make sure to read both Patricia's and Heike's views on Nystatin. Use your own judgment as to how to fight yeast. Helena's and Martie's Natural Treatment of Yeast, are also worthwhile reading.

Using Nystatin to Fight Yeast by Heike Ewing​
Nystatin is one of the safest "drugs" on the market. When administered orally, Nystatin stays in the digestive tract; it does not cross the membrane barrier into the circulatory system and, unlike systemic antifungals such as itranconazole or fluconazole, has no effect on any internal organs or systems. Furthermore, Nystatin is a "contact" drug that interacts with live yeast organisms it comes into direct contact with and kills them. It does nothing to other tissues or cells. I have in the past accidentally given large overdoses of Nystatin to very young chicks with no ill effects whatsoever.

- Consequently, Nystatin is a safe and very effective antifungal for yeast infections of the crop or digestive tract that can safely be given to chicks of any age and to parents that are laying, incubating, or feeding chicks. Correct dosage depends on the strength of the solution, but the dosage I have for the "standard" suspension that most pharmacies and vets have on hand and dispense is 0.3cc per 100gm body weight every 12 hours for 7 - 10 days. For best results, give the dosage when the crop is empty, perform crop massage after the medicine is given, and do not feed the chick for 10 - 15 minutes after giving it.

- I have heard others express concerns about Nystatin in the past and specifically questioned my avian vet about it; she explained that she thinks people get confused between Nystatin and other antifungals, as most of the "azole" antifungals are powerful systemic drugs that can have serious side effects and can cause birth defects and other problems if given to birds that are laying eggs. Nystatin is a totally different type of drug and has none of those problems - in fact, although gentian violet can be more effective on severe candida infections of the crop, it is more dangerous than Nystatin and more likely to kill chicks if administered improperly even though it is a non-prescription product.

- In the 9 years I have been breeding cockatiels, Nystatin has been my FIRST line of defense against yeast infections of the crop and I have never had any trouble with it or lost a chick due to its use. Its only drawbacks are that it is completely ineffective against systemic fungal infections, and that it takes a long time to eliminate severe infections because it kills only the top layer of yeast cells - the ones it comes into direct contact with - each time it is given.
NOTE: Martie Lauster noted: "Nystatin failures are due both to resistant strains and to the fact that it is a topical medication that must come directly in contact with the organisms it is attacking. If the yeast has gone systemic, and is no longer contained only in the digestive tract, Nystatin will have no effect. Caprylic Acid acts systemically so it can get to yeast that has grown into internal organs."
Patricia Carter's Input on Nystatin to fight Yeast

I wouldn't recommend using Nystatin without knowing if there was actually a yeast problem present. Even if I knew yeast was present I would try probiotics first since it hasn't any side effects like the chemicals in Nystatin. Gentian violet works well for yeast too. I would use Nystatin as a last line of defense.

Controlling Yeast Naturally by Helena / Totally Tweety
Helena uses non-paterurized, non-filtered, organic and raw apple cider vinegar. 1 tsp. per pint of water. She uses the brand called "Tree of Life". Apple Cider Vinegar controls most gram-negative and yeast problems without meds. She uses it for crop problems, 2 tbsp. to 1 gallon of water. Dr. Harrison says to use for 1 week every 3 months for preventive care. It is a immune stimulator. It also has a number of beneficial vitamins and minerals.

Use of Apple Cider Vinegar effective against Yeast and Bacteria
by Safiyah
A way to combat yeast is to give your parrots apple cider vinegar in their water. I make up a gallon at a time, and keep it in the fridge. Just 2 tablespoons of APPLE CIDER VINEGAR (not white, or any other kind) in the gallon. I have tried Kokomo to see which she prefers, the vinegar- water or plain water. She goes for the vinegar water every time. She loves it, I am not sure why ... Something in the vinegar combats yeast and other bad bacteria

Another Natural Treatment for Yeast in Baby Birds by:
Martie Lauster

Successfully used Caprylic Acid to save a chick that showed signs of yeast: had been regurgitating its food, had redness around its throat, crop and mouth, and by the tame Martie found the baby was laying on its side -- looking as if it was "on its way out". Anyhow, Martie bought a produced called "Caprylic Acid Combination". Martie cobbed together a dosage (kind of 1/8 teaspoon to one dessert spoon of dry formula) and force fed this to the baby. Two hours later, Martie had to force feed once again as the baby was still not showing any interest in eating. After four hours, the baby was much more responsive and by eight hours it was standing up and yelling to be fed! It was like a miracle. Martie kept the same dosage going for the next three days and the little owl fully recovered and is bouncing around and healthy.
NOTE: Some birds experience stomach upset with caprylic acid. So be aware of that if and when administering it.
Additionally, people advised Martie to give aloe to soothe the effects of the toxins produced by the yeast. Martie found with this baby and with others that the aloe moves a slow crop and seemed to soothe the inflammation from the yeast infection. Martie will most assuredly be using Caprylic Acid and Aloe in the future to try to get a handle on the best applications.
Some bird owners highly recommended the below Aloe product: Marty uses a product called Herbal Aloe Force, but others have used Aloe Detox with similar results. The manufacturer reports that Aloe Detox needs to be refrigerated (obviously). After opening, it will keep for 7 to 9 months. One recommended brand is "Lily of the Desert Aloe Detoxifying Formula" - available over the following websites: http://www.vitacost.com; http://www.amazon.com; http://www.internatural.com/ingr/ingr199340.cfm. It is also available at better health food stores.


Prevention:

The risk of candidiasis can be greatly reduced by providing a sanitary environment and proper nutrition, reducing or eliminating any causes of stress, and preventing contact with any potentially sick bird. Basic sanitary procedures, include the removal of old food from the flights or cages, clean water, and the provision of immune-enhancing nutrition. Maintaining a general level of hygiene when handling and hand-rearing neonates will help prevent young birds from contracting the disease. Unnecessary and excessive antibiotic therapy will increase the risk of fungal infections.
Sources / Resources: Identifying and Dealing with Candida - a Common Crop Disorder By Wanda Barras ... PetEducation.com ... Improved Aviculture Management May Prevent Candidiasis in Birds - Gary D. Butcher and Richard D. Miles; U of Florida ... Petcaretips.com ... Natural Antibiotics / Herbal Anti-inflammatories - Strengthening Your Immunesystem Naturally (human applications - discuss with your holistic vet)
 
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