THE Brinsea Octagon 20 Eco Thread; Hatches, etc. (PICS)

Can someone comment on Octagon 20 vs 40. I was about to buy the 40 on Amazon when I read reviews that its better to buy 2 x Octagon 20 vs an Ocatgon 40 because the lid is heavy and you have to lift it both hands and put it on the side to do anything inside the incubator and that way you lose humidity and temperature really quickly. That makes sense but what if one had a humidity pump attached? That way there would be no need to open the lid. Am I making any sense?

Any other advantages of 2 x Octagon 20 vs 1 Octagon 40?
 
Had the eco 20 brinsea bator running a few days before adding eggs. Temp perfect and humidity perfect. Added the eggs yesterday and now it's wacky. 101 and I keep adjusting slowly to try to decrease. I've read most this thread. Realize diff areas of the bator will be diff temps. And see that many folks use multiple Thermometers. I'm looking for reassurance. 1st hatch for me. 15 eggs from Julie Gauthier - delawares. Some Buckeyes from my own pens and a few ee.
 
I have another temp question. For 3 days before setting eggs, the eco glass thermometer and the one in the bottom agreed on temps Consistently. Now that I have eggs, the glass is reading 98, but the one on the eggs is reading 100.4. Both are consistent. I checked with my calibrated meat thermometer and got around 99.5. Should I even stress over this?
 
I have another temp question. For 3 days before setting eggs, the eco glass thermometer and the one in the bottom agreed on temps Consistently. Now that I have eggs, the glass is reading 98, but the one on the eggs is reading 100.4. Both are consistent. I checked with my calibrated meat thermometer and got around 99.5. Should I even stress over this?
Last time I set eggs I had the same problem with the difference after I put eggs in. I got a spot check thermometer and put it in the vent hole and went with that one. 3 different thermometers and 3 different temperatures. It was crazy making!
 
Was your hatch ok?
50%. I think that was more because I didn't have control of the humidity though. It was my first hatch. I bought a Brinsea advanced for hatching this time so I could get more consistent humidity. I will use the eco for the first 18 days and then switch to the advanced. This will be a split hatch because some of my shipped eggs will be coming later.
 
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50%. I think that was more because I didn't have control of the humidity though. It was my first hatch. I bought a Brinsea advanced for hatching this time so I could get more consistent humidity. I will use the eco for the first 18 days and then switch to the advanced. This will be a split hatch because some of my shipped eggs will be coming later.

This is my first try ever. Well see how it goes!
 
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Temperature seems to have stabilized after a few small adjustments. I had one water well half full and humidity would not go below 60% even with vent wide open so I removed all the water. Despite this the weight has reduced nicely. Will candle tomorrow night on day 3. Crossing fingers!
 
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After a few hatches I tend to follow the glass thermometer that it came with. The bulb is right under the fan so it shows the average temp being blown around in there. Other thermometers seem to be affected by all sorts of variables. If the glass one is holding steady and you have checked it with other thermometers before you put eggs in then trust it. It will be fine.
To the one that got water in the base. I would recommend taking it apart and cleaning it. There is a metal counterbalance bar in there that will rust and be nasty also course a nasty breeding ground for bacteria. Pull out the 4 screws and clean the all the pieces. Let the foam insulation pieces completely dry before you put it back together.
The base can also start collecting water if you over fill the chanals or use paper towels draping out of the chanals to up the humidity while the incubator is on the turner or being turned manually.
 

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