The building of Pea Palace(Pic Heavy)

You also have to remember that his peafowl are not going to be free-ranging -- the pens are their home. If chickens are "allowed out" during the day, they don't require as much space within their enclosure as those who live in the coop and an attached run. Plus...peafowl are bigger.

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Now some freespun advice,,everyone has their ways about doing things,but since this has basically been a 1 man show here doing all of this myself some things I've done maybe will help others.My first thoughts are once you decide on a design,leave some room for flexibility.I originally planned this with 3 outside runs planned on EACH side,,but then after looking at top netting sizes,changed my plans to match a net size that would better utilize the space I had.This meant expanding on my original size by almost triple,,and along with that comes significantly more lumber,and time.From this starting out as a 30x30 -3 pen arrangment,it has now grown to a 48x48 7 to 9 pen design.900 sq ft,,to now 2304 sq ft.,,,,12 posts to now 36 posts.

I now will have 5 pens each being 10 feet wide by 30 feet long,(One pen will only be 8' wide),but have an extra 18 x 48 feet all along one end of the 5- 30' long pens.I'm still debating on making this 18x48 foot area into 2 very large pens,,or possibly 4 smaller pens.But the size of the top netting got me to realize why not use all of it,instead of cutting off the excess or rolling it up alongside the pen walls?

Next thought,,,and I may get some backlash here but about setting posts. I run my straight and level line first.Always start on the same end and work one way.Take the time to square your measurements.Posts,,I always mark a line across each post 2 feet up from the bottom.I dig my hole normally about 22"deep measuring from the bottom of the hole,to my level stringline.When I put the post into the hole,I'm normally about 2"-3"'s above my string with my 2' mark on the post..This gives me some room to fudge with when attaching the wire,and sheet metal thats 3' wide across the bottom first.

Sakrete!! I know many people will just pour the bag in the hole dry,and walk away from it.The idea is that ground moisture will EVENTUALLY harden the Sakrete.This may occur if the ground is already very,very wet and you experience a 2" downpour once all posts are in their respective holes.But I found when trying it this way on setting my building posts,,some posts still was not set 10 days later.And how many of you have a few bags of sakrete sitting around that is hard because of absorbed moisture? I had this happen too,only to find the concrete dry and not hard in the center of the bag.Same way when allowing ground moisture to harden sakrete,it will get hard around the outside of the hole first,,Thus taking longer for moisture to get next to your post in the center of the hole.

I fill the hole 2/3 full of dry sakrete,then finish filling the hole to the top with water.I then take a 2' long steel square rod and start poking it as far down in the concrete mixture as I can. At first it goes real easy and you see air bubbles coming to the top,and as water reaches it's way downward it gets harder and harder to push the rod down because all the air is gone and the sakrete is getting wet all the way thru to the bottom of the hole.Within 12 hours,the post is set and you can nail to it without it bouncing all over.For doing this without any help,adding 2/3 of the hole with sakrete still allows final positioning before adding water,then making a last check once the hole is full of wet concrete.
 
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Sound like you will have lot of breeder pens , but before long you will be adding more. your 10 x 30 should hold a peacock and up to 6 peahens, mine are 12 x 36 . the two larger pens would be good for housing peachicks untill they are yearling. or until 2 yr old breeders.


nice job by the way.......
 
Deerman,,I can do this exact same arrangement next year on the west side of the corn crib,,giving me 18 pens total.Then the next year I have enough room to bankrupt me if I want to expand further,,about 80 feet long and 100 feet wide.I will have a hard enough time filling all the pens I'm making this year,but I did hatch out 13 birds last year that I'm sure would enjoy more space,so they will have one of the larger pens all to themselves.I eventually want to insulate the upper part of the crib and use that area for peachicks and newly hatched ornamentals,,like a nursey I guess. But I will need a new roof put on first,,and that won't be cheep and I'm not going to be 45' off the ground either,,a contractor will do it and that will make the billfold squeek!!
 
oh the advice about plants , to keep predators away......just ask and hunter...none of those bushes will help.. matter of fact , most animal use those to hide in. best the areas clear around pens and use the electric hot wire.

animals don't normal like to cross large clear areas, bushes like roses and etc. is where wild animal go into to hide.(rabbits or any fur animal) If any plants use tall trees for shade
 
Deerman,,I can do this exact same arrangement next year on the west side of the corn crib,,giving me 18 pens total.Then the next year I have enough room to bankrupt me if I want to expand further,,about 80 feet long and 100 feet wide.I will have a hard enough time filling all the pens I'm making this year,but I did hatch out 13 birds last year that I'm sure would enjoy more space,so they will have one of the larger pens all to themselves.I eventually want to insulate the upper part of the crib and use that area for peachicks and newly hatched ornamentals,,like a nursey I guess. But I will need a new roof put on first,,and that won't be cheep and I'm not going to be 45' off the ground either,,a contractor will do it and that will make the billfold squeek!!

you sure got a good start......one thing i have found talking with breeders, we all way are building more breeders pens.

Randy if you can make the mt hope auction this month. You can pick up some nice breeders this year.
 

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