christinemix
In the Brooder
Hi everyone,
I'm a newbie currently working on the design for my first chicken coop. My partner and I have 6 chickens coming home to us in the middle of July. 3 are bantams and 3 are standard size. We're in zone 9b, northern California, so no snow but we do get frost and the occasional freeze. Summers are hot, with some days in the 90s.
I am interested in incorporating passive solar design to try to stabilize the temperature in the coop a bit. The basic passive solar principles I know include orienting the longest wall to face south, with the majority of windows facing south, and a roof overhang sized to shield those south-facing windows from direct sun in summer but allow for more direct sun in winter.
We have snakes here and concerns about soil drainage during our very wet winters, so I would definitely like to elevate the coop. But elevating the coop also makes the prospect of a walk-in coop a bit more challenging, and we're also hoping to avoid having to crawl around in there to clean.
With those ideas in mind, I've been considering a coop that is 10' wide but only 4' deep. The 10' wide sides would face north/south, and at least the south wall would have a large cleanout door taking up most of the wall space so that we can open it up and clean without having to crawl in. The door from the coop to the run would be on the north side, so I'm not sure if I could make as much of the wall a cleanout door on the north side given that the hens' door is there. The roost bar would run parallel to the 10' wide side, so that there would be plenty of roosting space for the birds, and all on one level in the hopes of minimizing fighting over the highest roost. I know that the roost bar should also be at least 18" from the wall and 2' from the top of the floor. The nest boxes would be along one of the 4' walls, close to the floor. I am under the impression that 2-3 nest boxes would be OK for a flock of this size. I also know there should be a minimum of 18" of vertical distance between the hens and the ventilation put at the top of the wall, so I'm figuring that a bit more than 5' tall is a minimum range if I want to have ventilation on the shortest wall. Since the coop will have a shed-style roof, maybe ventilation could just be on the higher side to keep the shorter wall height down.
Is there something I don't know that would make coop dimensions like this a bad idea? I've noticed that a lot of coops seem to be more square than this so I'm concerned there's other information I should be considering.
In addition to the coop, they'll have a 25' by 10' fully enclosed run with a polycarbonate roof + shade cloth in the summer, and I'm hoping to also build or acquire a chicken tractor eventually to take them around our 3 acres of open space. I do not plan on putting feed or water inside of the coop, just in the run. I am purchasing an automatic Pullet Shut door to let them in and out, but I also permanently work from home and can see the coop area from the house, so I can make sure they have run access without relying on the automatic door.
Please feel free to pick apart this design idea! We would like to start buying materials soon so that we have several weeks to build before the hens arrive. I would rather find out now about issues before we get into the building process, and definitely long before our hens actually come home to us.
Thank you!
Christine
I'm a newbie currently working on the design for my first chicken coop. My partner and I have 6 chickens coming home to us in the middle of July. 3 are bantams and 3 are standard size. We're in zone 9b, northern California, so no snow but we do get frost and the occasional freeze. Summers are hot, with some days in the 90s.
I am interested in incorporating passive solar design to try to stabilize the temperature in the coop a bit. The basic passive solar principles I know include orienting the longest wall to face south, with the majority of windows facing south, and a roof overhang sized to shield those south-facing windows from direct sun in summer but allow for more direct sun in winter.
We have snakes here and concerns about soil drainage during our very wet winters, so I would definitely like to elevate the coop. But elevating the coop also makes the prospect of a walk-in coop a bit more challenging, and we're also hoping to avoid having to crawl around in there to clean.
With those ideas in mind, I've been considering a coop that is 10' wide but only 4' deep. The 10' wide sides would face north/south, and at least the south wall would have a large cleanout door taking up most of the wall space so that we can open it up and clean without having to crawl in. The door from the coop to the run would be on the north side, so I'm not sure if I could make as much of the wall a cleanout door on the north side given that the hens' door is there. The roost bar would run parallel to the 10' wide side, so that there would be plenty of roosting space for the birds, and all on one level in the hopes of minimizing fighting over the highest roost. I know that the roost bar should also be at least 18" from the wall and 2' from the top of the floor. The nest boxes would be along one of the 4' walls, close to the floor. I am under the impression that 2-3 nest boxes would be OK for a flock of this size. I also know there should be a minimum of 18" of vertical distance between the hens and the ventilation put at the top of the wall, so I'm figuring that a bit more than 5' tall is a minimum range if I want to have ventilation on the shortest wall. Since the coop will have a shed-style roof, maybe ventilation could just be on the higher side to keep the shorter wall height down.
Is there something I don't know that would make coop dimensions like this a bad idea? I've noticed that a lot of coops seem to be more square than this so I'm concerned there's other information I should be considering.
In addition to the coop, they'll have a 25' by 10' fully enclosed run with a polycarbonate roof + shade cloth in the summer, and I'm hoping to also build or acquire a chicken tractor eventually to take them around our 3 acres of open space. I do not plan on putting feed or water inside of the coop, just in the run. I am purchasing an automatic Pullet Shut door to let them in and out, but I also permanently work from home and can see the coop area from the house, so I can make sure they have run access without relying on the automatic door.
Please feel free to pick apart this design idea! We would like to start buying materials soon so that we have several weeks to build before the hens arrive. I would rather find out now about issues before we get into the building process, and definitely long before our hens actually come home to us.
Thank you!
Christine