I've been looking for information on small coop ventilation and posted some ideas on this thread a couple weeks ago:
https://www.backyardchickens.com/forum/viewtopic.php?id=79375
Then! This weekend I was loaned some USDA bulletins from the last century. One called "Poultry Houses and Fixtures," (1934) has very little info on ventilation - install wall vents, use windows and curtains, build copula on roof. But, it's the "Dairy-Barn Construction" (1923) that has just a little information that may be helpful to others with small coops.
Keep in mind that dairy barns, even in the 1920's were considerably larger than what anyone is going to have in their backyard for chickens. The system referenced is named for F. H. King of the University of Wisconsin and was used for decades. You can actually find a little about the ventilation system and Professor King online. The system relies on tight building construction when air isn't entering anywhere but the inlet vents. Some of these barns were very well built. Here are 2 points that seem appropriate:
First of all, multiple inlets for fresh air better distribute fresh air, however, if these vents are on opposite sides of the building - drafts may occur. Wind will move air in on one side and out the inlet vents on the other. Those inlet vents will have become outlet vents even if there is an outlet elsewhere. This problem can be overcome by using inlet flues but that discussion goes beyond this one. It seems to me that a simple remedy is to put inlet vents on one side of the coop, only. "Poultry Houses and Fixtures" suggests inlets just above the dropping boards and that's probably a good place.
During hot weather it makes sense to have the outlet vent just below the roof. Hot air rises and since most of the intent is to cool the building - the hottest air should be vented.
During cold weather, ventilation (mostly of moisture) is still necessary but warm air should be kept inside the building. The way King found to do this was to extend a flue all the way down nearly to the barn floor (12 to 18 inches above). Above this flue opening, warm air generally stayed put but air near the floor (think manure) rose in the flue and exitted thru the roof.
The way I can see this working for the coop is to have an opening in the roof (or near the roof) that would ventilate the coop throughout the year. Attach a flue to it that extends all the way down within a few inches of the floor during the cold months. Some kind of damper may be used during the coldest days and nights.
Farmers 100 years ago built HUGE vertical outlet flues in the center of their barns. A large diameter plastic pipe (6 or 8 inches, maybe) might work better for a small coop. It could be simply pushed on or taken off depending on the time of the year. Something could be done to allow the chickens to stay off the floor during the Winter if they choose to do so.
Just an old, old idea I wanted to share. How beneficial it could prove to be would require either trial and error or someone with an ag engineering degree to figure out.
Steve
https://www.backyardchickens.com/forum/viewtopic.php?id=79375
Then! This weekend I was loaned some USDA bulletins from the last century. One called "Poultry Houses and Fixtures," (1934) has very little info on ventilation - install wall vents, use windows and curtains, build copula on roof. But, it's the "Dairy-Barn Construction" (1923) that has just a little information that may be helpful to others with small coops.
Keep in mind that dairy barns, even in the 1920's were considerably larger than what anyone is going to have in their backyard for chickens. The system referenced is named for F. H. King of the University of Wisconsin and was used for decades. You can actually find a little about the ventilation system and Professor King online. The system relies on tight building construction when air isn't entering anywhere but the inlet vents. Some of these barns were very well built. Here are 2 points that seem appropriate:
First of all, multiple inlets for fresh air better distribute fresh air, however, if these vents are on opposite sides of the building - drafts may occur. Wind will move air in on one side and out the inlet vents on the other. Those inlet vents will have become outlet vents even if there is an outlet elsewhere. This problem can be overcome by using inlet flues but that discussion goes beyond this one. It seems to me that a simple remedy is to put inlet vents on one side of the coop, only. "Poultry Houses and Fixtures" suggests inlets just above the dropping boards and that's probably a good place.
During hot weather it makes sense to have the outlet vent just below the roof. Hot air rises and since most of the intent is to cool the building - the hottest air should be vented.
During cold weather, ventilation (mostly of moisture) is still necessary but warm air should be kept inside the building. The way King found to do this was to extend a flue all the way down nearly to the barn floor (12 to 18 inches above). Above this flue opening, warm air generally stayed put but air near the floor (think manure) rose in the flue and exitted thru the roof.
The way I can see this working for the coop is to have an opening in the roof (or near the roof) that would ventilate the coop throughout the year. Attach a flue to it that extends all the way down within a few inches of the floor during the cold months. Some kind of damper may be used during the coldest days and nights.
Farmers 100 years ago built HUGE vertical outlet flues in the center of their barns. A large diameter plastic pipe (6 or 8 inches, maybe) might work better for a small coop. It could be simply pushed on or taken off depending on the time of the year. Something could be done to allow the chickens to stay off the floor during the Winter if they choose to do so.
Just an old, old idea I wanted to share. How beneficial it could prove to be would require either trial and error or someone with an ag engineering degree to figure out.
Steve